IH 706 problems

I got a IH 706 from a nice guy that was going to show me how to run it. He died before he could do that. Now I am trying to figure it all out with no help. It has a IH backhoe that I had big plans for and now it is big frustration. MY problem is that I am not sure how to make it work properly. The way I have it hooked up now the hoe does everything ok as long as I have a bungee cord hooked to the control lever that tilts the front bucket. I have more than one lever that I don"t have a clue as to what they are for and I am thinking that one of these levers may hold the secret but moving them does not change the results. I just want to get the thing working so that I can determine if I even want to keep it.
Also I am having trouble with the shifting. When I move the high - low - reverse lever there is a lot of grinding of gears. That can not be good.
tractor is a IH 706 diesel-loader is a 2350- backhoe is a 3082 Engine is strong its the rest I am worried about.Thank you for your patience and I hope this is not to long

Can you post some pictures of the hyd. controls? There may be a selector valve to get oil to the hoe or the hoe gets oil from the front bucket control valve. Dave

Don't know anything about the hoe but ran a couple of 706 gassers when I was a kid. They shift hard, idle the tractor down and stop all ground movement when shifting ranges. While it may be possible to up-shift gears 1 to 4, this transmission is in no way a shift-on-the-go design. Sometimes you have to double clutch the tractor or select another range and move the tractor about one foot so the gears will mesh in the range you really want. Because of all of this, shift linkage adjustment is critical. IH built to this transmission design for many years but the 06 series was the first. They were able to smooth out the shifting just a little bit in later models. While these transmissions shift hard, they are very durable if not abused by the operator.

I had 2 706 for a long time only one now but ther are a good strong tractor. I had a hoe on one at one time but it ran from its own system from the pto. if you are connected into one of the remotes you will have to flow oil with the lever you are mentioning witch is not an issue unless you are going to do alot of work with it. As far as shifting they are tough just like the other post clutch netural Idel down chutch to make all spin the same speed apply pressure to shifter and drift a little. there is a rebuild /upgrade kit for the detents that is not har to replace depending on how bad the bushing holes are worn but with this done and linkage set correctly it is not to bad it is still a bear when used as a loader tractor or similar good open field machine put it in gear and go to work it will do it longer than you will. hope this helped some

Well if you adjust the clutch brake it will help significantly. It is the rod on the side below and in front of the brake pedals.With the clutch adjusted properly, the rod is adjusted so the pin will just go in the hole with the clutch depressed, then give it about a 1/2 to a turn longer or shorter can't remember. This will help to stop the transmission from spinning when you are stopped.YOU CANNOT PUSH the pedal ALL the way down after this when stopping or you will cause severe wear to the clutch brake. Also grease the throw out bearing inside the cover on the bottom. We took the grease fitting out and screwed a hose for a grease gun in and it hangs out the bottom so it can be greased without removing the cover on the bottom of clutch housing.

If you can post pics, that would help a lot to figure out what is going on. I'd highly recommend buying an operator's manual. They are available on places like ebay, binder books, and your C-IH dealer. it will help immensely. as for shifting, that range transmission is not the best design. it was fixed with the 56 series. adjustment can help, replacing worn parts can help. make sure you don't shift that range trans. unless you are at a COMPLETE stop. you can get away with shifting the speed trans. on the fly alittle. the lever on the left of the steering wheel is the TA (torque amplifier). Basically a hydraulic 2-speed, meant to be shifted on the go. they are pretty tough as long as they are adjusted properly. the main thing with that is make sure you shift quick, forward or back. don't let it hang out between hi and low.

hydraulics: there are 4 levers to the right of the seat. the rear 2, with the aluminum quadrant, are for the 3pt or fast hitch. the inside one controls the position (raise/lower), and the outside one is draft control. for using your loader and/or backhoe, the position control lever needs to be rearward of the notch in the aluminum quadrant (pushing it forward will slow the operation of the hydraulics).

the two levers forward of that control the remote hydraulics. the inside one handles the rear couplers and, if equipped, the front left side. the outside lever controls the front right side.

how are your loader and backhoe plumbed? it sounds like your backhoe and tilt must both be connected to the left and rear, controlled by the same control valve. that means your backhoe control valves must be closed-center, if the loader works properly. not the best- these tractors have open-center hydraulics. it's fine to connect a bank of open-center valves, then just bungee one of the tractor's levers. but you should only be using one at a time of either the rear or front left hydraulic ports.

I am guessing that your loader is operated from the tractor's remote services. A 706 does not have open center hydraulics. Not seeing it I can only conclude your hoe operates from the return side of the tractors services which is why you have to bungee a valve open to allow a flow of the charge pressure. With allot of use this will be a bit tough on your system. My hoe has an open center valve bank so I routed my flow through my hoe first then back to the tractor. I have also done this with loaders on tractor with a charge pressure, but your power steering will no longer have priority over the loader. Of course not an issue with the back hoe as you are not steering at the same time as using the hoe.

Lots of responses but no one suggested that you get the operator manual for it....it is the most basic of all books, and most important for a new operator. Basic ID of controls, lube schedule, maintenance, etc. Shifting is always an issue with those tractors- you are using the clutch with the hi-lo-rev?

Amen!

(quoted from post at 11:46:23 02/19/10) I am guessing that your loader is operated from the tractor's remote services. A 706 does not have open center hydraulics. Not seeing it I can only conclude your hoe operates from the return side of the tractors services which is why you have to bungee a valve open to allow a flow of the charge pressure. With allot of use this will be a bit tough on your system. My hoe has an open center valve bank so I routed my flow through my hoe first then back to the tractor. I have also done this with loaders on tractor with a charge pressure, but your power steering will no longer have priority over the loader. Of course not an issue with the back hoe as you are not steering at the same time as using the hoe.

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The 706 does indeed have an open center hydraulic system. It is also quite likely to have both front and rear outlets on the same auxiliary valve. It is possible that the hoe is connected to a rear outlet that also has the front outlet connected to the loader. Without more information of how the hydraulics are plumbed we are just making wild guesses.