Cold frames How to install the glass

old

Well-known Member
Well thinking about getting started on building a couple of cold frames. I have the temped glass and was thinking maybe once the wood frame is built I could use silicone caulk to sort of glue the glass to the frame and have that part of the frame made with hinges on it to open it up when it got warmer in it. Make it pivot so the north side opens to let the warm air out and that way the south side angle gets steeper so less sun gets in and heats it up. So will a good bead of silicone caulk hold a 28 by 76 inch piece of glass to a wood frame??
Thanks
 
I'd just keep it simple and lay it in on cleats (strips) and recess it enough to fasten at least a cleat on each side. That way, the wood can flex/give with the weather (and bumps by the lawn mower) without stressing the glass.

Dave
 
Silicone will glue ALMOST anything to anything. It will also flex without cracking. I do think you would be better having a 'slip' joint though-wood on both sides-without any caulk. This would allow for unequal expansion, but I would make the frame at least 1/4" bigger than the glass, so as not to stress the glass too much. Greg
 
Well maybe I should sort of explain this better. The glass is just that not frame just plain jane glass. I also do not have a router etc to do any fancy cuts. All this stuff is salvage junk that I have laying around even the silicone is left over from other jobs
 
We had one in Maine where I grew up. The glass was tilted toward the sun and hinged on the high(north) side so you could open it up and prop it open to work inside. We opened the glass to vent figuring that heat rises to escape, but I suppose you could have the north side open instead. I would take 2x2 lumber or so and make a couple of rips on a table saw in the middle of one side of each piece to make a slot in it as wide as the glass is thick. Then you can make it so the glass is recessed into the slot the whole way around, screw the frame together and use the silicone to seal the glass to the wood rather than having to depend on it as an adhesive. Just a thought.
Zach
 
All I have for saws is a circular saw and a jig saw. Oh by the way I will not own or use a table saw they scare me to death. Reason was I saw a guy cut his fingers off with one back when I was 16 or so and bot did that mess up my Friday night date what the guys daughter. That is way I was think of doing it this way. I do not want to spend any $$ on this since I have 2X10s laying around and 22 sheets of this glass on hand. And no I do not need a green house I have one of those that I need to haul home one of these days
 
IMHO I had always heard that circular saws where more dangerous than table saws. I have heard it said that riding motorcycles was also dangerous but as along as you were scared of them you would be ok. It was when you got too comfortable with them that they would "bite you". I treat all my power tools that way. BTW how are the cats and coons doing. Also a year or two ago did you say you knew where to get long zippers for sweatshirts. Thank you. Armand
 
I was going to use an old fiberglass pickup topper for a hot bed but then I used it to cover up a load of calf feed. I guess now I'll have to plant the tomatoes somewhere else.
 
The zippers wasn't me. As for table saws some how when you see a guy cut 3 or his four fingers off with one and your about 20 foot form him when it is done it just was to much for me to want to use on. Ya circular saws can be trouble and I have had my close calls with them before. I buy them cheap because I use them a lot for cutting iron with a abrasive blade and some how they seem to burn up after a while of cutting iron with them
 
I second Dave's suggestion, a little air leakage is probably good anyway to help keep down condensation.

One suggestion from my limited experience building cold frames - build it tall enough that the plants can grow until warm weather without plastering themselves to the glass. My goal was to gain a few weeks in the Spring when it's warm during the day but can still frost at night.
 
You can do all the cuts to make a rabbit around the frame, with a hand held circular saw, just plan your work, and make the difficult cut (the one on the narrow edge of the board) first, with another board clamped, or temporarily screwed on to provide stability. If you survive that, then move on to the easy one, and use that depth stop, that's what it is there for. Rabbit under, and silicone over should last to hell and back!
 
Rabett your frames, lay the glass in there, then use glazing points and window putty. The way they were done from 1850 to 1970. You never replaced a window?

Gordo
 
Old, do you have any old lath laying around? Make your door frame and then tack a narrow lath on top of the frame rails. Have the lath 3/16"-1/4" narrower than the frame. The lath will be flush with the outside of the frame and the inside of the lath will be 3/16-1/4 short of being flush on the inside. Your rabbet is now made and you still have your fingers. Lay the glass in there and tack a few small nails, brads, or glazing points in to hold the glass in place when the door is open. No need to glaze cause it doesn't need to be air tight. Jim
 
I just lay my glass on top. This one's been pretty heavily picked. Make sure you don't scratch tempered glass clearing snow. We've had 30" on the ground this winter.
ColdFrame5.jpg
 
Well, I'm sorry that you had such a bad experience with a table saw. I'd be lost without two table saws, one in each building, but everyone has their own situation that is different from other people's.
Zach
 
Sure will. For a while anyway until the wood rots and the silicone comes loose. The big thing bad is the exposed edge of the glass. And the glass ends up supporting the frame not the other way around like it should be. The glass will torque when you go to open it and may break.
But the silicone will stick.
 
using scraps sound like this place also,anyway how about nailing some scraps to outside of the frame, making sure they are 1/4 t0 1/2 inch or whatever clearence you need then nail or better yet screw more scrap pieces to these. thats it no silicone or anything just side glass in slot or lay it in an put scraps all around if you don't want it out again. or if you want it to slide just on sides and bottom. you could tip it up completely vertical and it wouldn't matter. all you are doing is making a space or slot for the glass with no special tools,just by putting on some scraps.
 
Well the whole idea on these cold frames if to keep the cost at zero, as in I have all this stuff just laying around. I mean I have 22 sheets of glass that size so might as well use it
 

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