Best oil after rebuild

What is the best oil to run in a farmall super a after a complete overhaul?

Any good quality oil that meets the API and SAE viscosity requirements of the manuafcturer. In short a good grade SAE30W or SAE 10W30, 10W40 motor oil for a gas engine. For diesels, you need an API oil rated for diesels, either SAE 30W or 15W40.

If you have install a new cam and lifters, I would either use Rotella 15W-40 for it's high zinc content. You could also add a ZDDP additive to the breaking oil if you use something else. You know that the ZDDP additive that flat tappet cams need for break-in has been reduced/eliminated in auto oil because many new car engines have roller cams which do not the zinc additive. elimination of the additive also help Cat. Converter last/work longer/better.

Kent

Hi: there is a 10w-30 Rotella T also. ag

When I was a kid and overhauling engines the machinist said to use non-detergent oil for break in. Just for the first 500 miles or so, "until the rings seat." He claimed the detergent oil caused the cylinders to glaze. Detergents were new then, I have not heard this in recent years.

Tom

This question is much like who made the best pickup truck or tractor ever. Just as Important as what oil to use is and that is the breakin procedure that has sparked many schools of thought. To make a long story short I would suggest a question like how do you suggest I breakin a recent engine overhaul? There is one thing I have always done and that is I just use my normal oil after a rebuild and drive it as normal but I drop the oil and filter within 1000 miles this is a must. In a tractor it depends on how hard you work it as to hours. In my years of doing rebuilds and listening to some exotic procedures I had a chance to talk to a successful dragster motor builder where they may do a complete engine rebuild overnite to be ready for the next run and all he would say is "get the trash out of the motor" in other words change the first oil quickly. He said depending on the ambient temperature they would change the oil after every run. I personally after every overhaul would run the engine at a fast idle for some time then hook it to a dyno and run it at 75% of rated hp for an hour then before I shut it down run it a rated hp for fifteen minutes then drop the oil and filter. Then I tell the customer to change the oil the next two times at 50 hour intervals then she's good.IMHO It's worked for me for many years and may not work for others.

Almost all reciprocating aircraft engines use non-detergent oil for break-in. Supposedly helps to burnish the cylinder walls.

Deere offers a break in oil. I used it in my Farmall.

karl f

My machinist was very adament about using an oil with high level of ZDP (Zinc). I used the 800# for the Shell Rotella Tech line, and they admitted they have cut way back on the zinc to meet the new emissions requirements for the new over road trucks. They still have a small amount of zinc.

The easy option is to use an off-road diesel rated oil in your favorite viscosity. The off-road equipment does not have cat converters and still has sufficient zinc. The second option is to buy a special racing oil (can't remember the brand, it is not on any normal store shelf). He has seen a lot of new cams destroyed by the lack of ZDP. Look up the Crane cam site and see their recommendations.

The old answers we have trusted for many years are now a plan for failure with a newly rebuilt engine. Do diligent research, you have paid a lot of $$ to get that engine rebuilt. You want it to last a long time.

Paul in MN

Putting DEERE oil in a FARMALL !!!
I'm supprised it didn't Choke on it ! !