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farmall c head problems

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I have a 1949 farmall c that I can not get the head to seal up been overhauled block has been decked and the head as been resurfaced put new head bolts in bought a case-ih head gasket tryed i think everything this going on the 4th head gasket can anyone help me with this please ??????????
 
Use copper coat spray, its made by permatex. Also make sure to re-torque the head down after running a short time. You shouldnt have a problem then.

Andrew
 
i have done this someone told me to use true aluminum paint did not retorque the head tho would this make the diffrence
 
tell us how and what your doin. then easier to pin point the problem.something wrong if used 4 gskts.where and what is leaking? and how much? thats the thing everyone is so vauge , give next to nothing for info.need steps and specs.
 
How much do the sleeves stick up over the deck? If the block was planed the counter bores need to be cut deeper too. I think the torque is 85 to 90 foot pounds. Someone correct me if this is wrong as I don't have a spec book here. Do it in 3 or 4 steps & again after it is warmed up. Then let it cool & check it again.
 
i run it for a while then ill see little bubbles all the way around the head i dont get any water in the oil tho just in the water its like the head isnt tight enough also when i pulled the head off it looks like its leaking between each cylinder but the tractor runs good starts fine but then it blows the head gasket out
 
thats your problem...you ALWAYS retorque head after it gets up to operating temp...wouldnt hurt nuthin to do it twice if youre haveing that much trouble...i also endorse KopperKoat but alot of folks swear by aluminum paint too.
 
Take a look at the sleeves to see how much they're protruding above the head. As someone else mentioned that could be your problem if the counterbore wasn't cut when they decked the block. My manual says the sleeves should extend above the machined surface of the block between .003" to .007". Hal
 
thanks to all for help it was done by a good machine shop and was told to bring it to specs but i will check how would i check this to see if they did this can i feel it or do i nee to buy a tool to check
 
Make sure when torquing the head that you start in the center & torque in both directions. Do this in about 3 steps. My manual says 65 ft-lb,
but I think that may've been raised even though I used that back in 1976 when redoing a stuck Farmall A and I didn't have any leakage problems. Hal
 
if the sleeve protrusion is correct, and both surfaces are flat, you should be able to seal it. the book says 65 ft-lbs, but i think i heard that CNH is now recommending more. Well, i replaced the head gasket on my A last summer, and I used 2 coats of copper spray on each side, torqued it down in several steps, starting from the center, and finally to 80 ft-lbs. ran it till warm, retorqued. no leaks.
 
According to IH Service Manual for engines
C-123, C-135, C-146, & C-153
Page 1-25------ Cylinder head torque --80-90 lbs

Keith & Shawn(Gold Medal Winner)
 
You had the block decked and you had the head resurfaced.Does it have studs or bolts to hold the head on?If its bolts you might need to run a bottoming tap down the threads to get a good torque on them.You have removed metal and your bolts might be hanging up before they get tight in rust or crud in the threads since the bolts need to go deeper now.You might even need a thicker washer or something if the bolts are bottoming out.I dont think that would happen,but anything is possible.If the bolt holes go into the water jacket,other than tapping them to make sure the threads are clean I dont know what else it could be.Also its a good idea to check the liner protrusion and to retorque the head after you run it and get it warmed up good.There is a depth mic or something to check liner protrusion.Maybe a dial indicator rig.
 
See how much the top of the sleeves are above the block. Use a dial indicator. Since they machined the surface of the engine block they should've machined the recessed areas in the block where the top of the sleeves sit. Hal
 
(quoted from post at 23:02:28 01/21/10) Take a look at the sleeves to see how much they're protruding above the head. As someone else mentioned that could be your problem if the counterbore wasn't cut when they decked the block. My manual says the sleeves should extend above the machined surface of the block between .003" to .007". Hal
Click to expand...

You also need to make sure there is no more than .002" difference between any two adjacent sleeves.
 
Aluminum paint is not a sealer as some seem to think. Aluminum paint is in fact an anti seize so the head gasket can be reused. Started back many years ago and then somehow became a mind set that it was a sealer.
 
Clean the threads in the hole as well as the bolts, lube the bolt threads as well ans under the bolt head and re torque after warming the engine to operating temperature.

It is like measuring a board twice so you only have to cut once rather than four times as you stated you had not retorqued your engine head.

I cut the board off four times and it is still to short. :)^D

I have never retorqued a cast iron head that didn't read less than what it was torqued to start with by 10 or more foot pounds. It is the nature of the beast.
 
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