What went Wrong on this Hub?

Put this in a press after soaking in solvent for 2 days and spraying with oil weeks before that. Heated with a rosebud and as it was being tapped with the hammer in the press it snapped. Only thing I think could have been done differently was use a pipe over the axle and press against that. Any ideas on preventing this from happening next time?






Guess I still need 1 more hub.

Thanks

Splines need to be perfectly clean- any chip will interfere with movement. Ring supporting 100% underside of hub, as close as possible to the axle, press on the axle. Heat and no hammering. Some are impossible- if this is the hub pictured a few days ago, looked like the splines were simply too corroded for anything to work, unless you could get right up to the hub with a dremel, die grinder, etc. Could still be rough inside where the hub and splines mated.

Little JB Weld and she will be good as new!

Well you maybe should have got a thick wall pipe that would just fit over the shaft.Then weld a thick plate on top of the pipe.Then put the shaft on something like an anvil or any solid surface and try to beat it on the shaft farther with a big sledge.If you move it clean the splines as you move it.Then after you get the splines clean knock it off the other way because the shaft next to the anvil will be swelled maybe.You could have been better off to heat it with the rosebud and leave it until it was cool to beat on it if you didnt.Heating stuff and spraying with PB Blaster works sometimes.It seems to get in deeper than other stuff sometimes.

I agree, the only real way it might be possible is to cut the shaft off flush, and bore the shaft out of it with good lathe tooling. Rust expands 9why concrete rebar destroys concrete) so it was under radical pressure before it was put in the press. Jim

Rose bud? You need more fire friend. We use a homemade branding iron heater and get the hub hot. Then with a BIG press they usually come loose. Slowly, and with loud pops. But hey, you have it loose. Just put the pieces back together. Lots of them have been running broken for years.

I'd agree with more heat. A rosebud would easily heat the hub up enough but the paint isn't even burned off. A pipe to evenly press the hub off would also help. Dave

Grind out a V on each side of the brake to the center and the heat it up pretty good then silver solder (Not braze) it should be good enough for another 40 years or so. Remember cast cannot bend even a slight amount before it will brake.
Walt

Also I dont know why I didnt think of this before but if you dont need that shaft,with a good torch and the right tip you could burn the shaft out of the hub.Might not even need to burn all of it out,just enough to break it loose.Just trim it down as much as you can and burn into it.It may be a little hard to keep it straight but you can do it.If its too far for your torch to reach,turn it over and burn it the other way until you get a hole through it in the middle.Then you might be able to blast all the way from one side.Whittle it down and try it once in a while once you get a piece out.Stay off of the hub with the torch,just burn the shaft only.It can be done.
If you arent good with a torch and have the shaft real hot before you get a hole in it,better let it cool off and then it might come out anyway.
It can be welded probably and hold.I would use 7018 and v it out first.Run a pass,clean all the slag off,run another pass clean all the slag off and keep doing this until you get the V filled.Go to the other side and grind down until you get through any slag down to weld and weld that side out the same way.Since none of those welds would be an inch long or much more you can weld them one after another without stopping.You cant stop until you get done welding either because it might crack if you went and ate lunch came back and started up again.Cast doesnt like that very much.This is assuming you can run 7018 rod.If not practice until you can or get somebody that can weld to do it.

Cast is funny stuff. Best to keep heat away from it if you can !

Trying to torch the shaft out could easily ruin the hub. Same thing with gouging. It looks like you'd have to cut through at least a couple inches. That would be a difficult weld and would require a specialty type of rod, not 7018 if it is cast iron. O/A maybe? Being that it has to fit a spline and that holes go through where the breaks are, presents some problems. Will it shrink or expand too much to fit the spline properly? Will it line up perfect to fit back on the spline? Will the holes in the hub just act as a starting point for it to crack again? Maybe it could be welded but you'd need someone that was highly experienced in that type of repair. Dave

It was getting long winded as I was writing so I gave a shorter answer hoping to see more replys,but I would either get some thick plate and weld it to the plate or a big vise that would hold it together,or there could be lots of ways that work,but it would have to be fitted together so good you couldnt tell it was broke.I would mark the crack some way first before grinding and I would use a carbide burr on a diegrinder to v it.Then I would tack it everywhere I though it needed to be tacked and weld it keeping it flat as much as possible.Other rods will work but I would use 7018 or ask a welding supply or welder what they have that has a little flex to it for cast steel.I also would ask their opinion on welding it with MIG.I remember there was Super rod and other kinds that weld easier than 7018.I would weld until I was done,get a file or hacksaw blade or something rigged up to clean all of the rust out of the splines,oil it up and put it back on.

Press PLUS hammer?
Think that answered your question...

Make it GLOW, then press. Leave the hammer home in the tool box.
You also want the support as close to the shaft as possible.

This one could be 'V's out and welded with a nickle rod like a Sodel 35 quite easily and successfully. Preheat to ~400 F + and weld. Probably going to take a pound or more of rod tho at ~$55/pound.

Rod

THIS!

What you said about the Lathe- drill and boring bar.