Leaky carb

This message is a reply to an archived post by raywusa on April 08, 2009 at 06:59:09.
The original subject was "Re: Leaky carb".

Hi
Had my zenith rebuilt 8 months ago and I have gas running out the intake side of carb. Does ethanol seem to cause trouble with the rubber tip needles.
I cant get 88 to start crank a few seconds and gas is running out.

Does the carb overflow while it's sitting or just when it starts?

If it only floods when running, you MAY have the choke sticking shut or a restricted air intake system. (Does that tractor use a fuel pump?)

I would not think ethanol in the gas would
deteriorate the rubber on the needle valve that
quickly. Maybe the float is adjusted to high in
the carburetor. Starting by bending the float
down a little. If you can not get the spec
adjustment, I would keep bending it down a little
bit. Try it and see if the gas stops flooding
over into the intake.

(quoted from post at 19:27:57 12/25/09) This message is a reply to an archived post by raywusa on April 08, 2009 at 06:59:09.
The original subject was "Re: Leaky carb".

Hi
Had my zenith rebuilt 8 months ago and I have gas running out the intake side of carb. Does ethanol seem to cause trouble with the rubber tip needles.
I cant get 88 to start crank a few seconds and gas is running out.

Click to expand...

How well did it run during the 8 months?

It ran fine, this has been a recurring problem,
just after I got the 88 we put a carb kit in. Ran fine for a couple of months then after you crank it and stop out comes the gas. Sent away and had rebuilt ran good for a few months. Then back to the same problem this fall. Cant get it to start always flooded. I have electronic ignition fuel inline filter etc.

Thanks will give that a check. When it stops storming here in sw Mn. I have my snow blower on the tractor.

When you first try to start it crank it then if you stop then the gas comes out. Then its flooded and doesnt want to start. When the problem started i removed the hose from the air cleaner and can see choke position and have checked intake system. Thanks.

If it only pukes gas AFTER you crank it, likely the carb is FINE and you are overchoking it to compensate for another problem, such as weak spark.

EVERY old machine has it's peculiarities about starting.

As far as operating the choke, (once the engine is in operating condition) get the engine cranking, give the choke a quick "tug and release" and see if the engine "fires". Repeat if necessary.

Simply keeping the choke pulled out and continuing to crank the engine will flood ANY carburetor and make it puke gas out the air horn vent when you quit cranking it.

Some general advice...

When cranking a cold engine, the battery voltage is pulled down by the HEAVY demands of the starter and makes for a weak spark. The sparkplugs are likely wet with gasoline and the engine won't start 'til they are dried out or replaced.

If you are intending to regularly use this tractor, install an engine coolant heater and warm it up for a couple of hours before trying to start it.

Be SURE the battery is good and fully charged and the cables are good and heavy and all connections are CLEAN BRIGHT and TIGHT. A "float charger" will keep the battery fully charged and ready to go.

DO NOT muck with the float adjustment unless you know it is wrong and have the correct "specs".

Blindly mucking with it without knowing if it's wrong is just plain DUMB.

I don't have my shop manuals at hand, but if it comes to that point where you need to tear into it, ask for help and SOMEONE surely will look up the "specs" for you. Or, better yet, pick up a copy of the service manual.