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IH 706 starts runs for 5 sec and dies

J

Jonas

New User
I recently bought an IH 706 diesel D282 with a Roosa-Master injection pump. The tractor starts readily but will not run longer than about five seconds.
I know these things:
It has low oil pressure, it will start with or without either but will not continue running for longer that five seconds even with either. It is supposed to have less than 10 hours on an in frame rebuild.
I have done these things:
I had the pump rebuilt. When I installed it I blew out the return line to clear it out. To check for restriction in air flow I took off the air intake parts down to the manifold with no change in how it runs or doesn’t run. I checked the fuel flow into the pump (about a pint a minute). I loosened the return line to the tank to see if it was constricting and shutting down the pump but when I did I got a lot of fuel coming out of the line but it didn’t even run five seconds. I have exhausted all of my mechanic friends and I am hoping one of you has an answer for me. What in the world is the problem?
 
Did you completely remove the return line fitting from the top of the pump? That sounds like the classic symptom of the return line restrictor being plugged. The return line screws out of the fitting and the fitting itself must be removed so there is nothing in the top of the pump. Then start it and let the fuel leak out into a bucket. Hope that test will show you something. mEl
 
Have you been using ether instead of the glow plugs to start it ? If so it's gonna need another overhaul sooner than later. NEVER USE ETHER in a glowplug engine!
 
'A pint a minute'???? Sounds like the problem to me.
I'd blow the line back to the tank, clean the tank strainer, etc as I'm not familiar with that tractor's tank setup. Then I'd throw a new filter onto it. Make sure to change all the seals/rubber parts around the filter and housing. Fill the tank with fuel, then bleed it and see where you are.
Running for 5 seconds sounds to me like it's simply running out of fuel... so you need to find out why. It could also be drawing air somewhere on a line.

Rod
 
Just a thought, but have you changed the fillters or are you sure you have the right ones for that engine. Had a friend that put new filters in his Ford - parts store gave him what they had (just a number or 2 off) & said they were the same & would work. He was ready to junk it cause it would do the same as yours. Put proper filters on & started right up.
 
Well mEl gets the Gold Star for the day. When I blew the return line I could hear air blowing into the tank but when I checked it at mEl suggestion. I found the clog. Of course 120 psi air is more viscous than diesel at return line pressure. I checked it using your idea of pulling off the line and fitting, interesting that it wouldn't run with the fitting in place. I still don't understand that but when I put the hose back on it died 30 seconds later. I found the clog at the check valve. I kept it running for 20 minutes last night. I will check to see how it runs this morning but I think we have the problem solved thanks for your help.
 
Jonas, You are not out of the woods yet, you found as I was sure you would the restrictor plugged and that shuts the engine down, the restrictor plugging is almost always caused by the deterioration of the rubber coupling ring that fastens the governor ring to the internal rotor. The ring and rotor both have 3 pins that stick out with heads on them and the flexible ring snaps over the pins. Over years the ring deteriorates and starts breaking up into tiny bits of black rubber and clogs the return fitting. You would be wise to have the coupling ring replaced as there can be internal damage to the pump if the ring completely disengages and allows metal to metal contact within the pump. I have worked all my career for a Case dealer and we have seen this hundreds of times on Roosa fueled engines. Sorry for the bad tidings but-----------. mEl
 
Thought I'd add after re-reading your post, the restrictor creates a little back pressure on the return side which is desirable but to much will stop the pump from delivering fuel. Jdemaris could give a detailed explanation as he is very studied on these pumps. Maybe he will pop in. mEl
 
Later tractors did away with the check valve at the bottom of the tank and just ran the return line to the top instead. If you can not get yours cleaned out you can just remove it. The tractor will run fine without the check valve. The reason it is there is to keep fuel from leaking out when you need to remove the line to work on the tractor.
 
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