O.T.---Wood Glue

I need some really strong holding wood glue. What is the strongest glue available?

Gorilla glue is very good.

gorrilla glue test on non important pieces first

Don't know if it's the strongest, but I've had really good luck with Titebond. Used it on lots of indoor projects with very good results, easy cleanup too. Probably more important than the kind of glue is the fit-up of the pieces being glued. You can't have too many clamps to hold stuff in place. Be sure to give any glue ample time to set-up before removing clamps.
Paul

I have had real good luck with plain old Elmer's white wood glue. Its made for wood and if applied correctly will hold wood pieces for many years. Sometimes the old stuff just works better.
I made a small table when in high school in the 1957 held only with Elmer's white wood glue and its still in perfect condition.
Walt

Walt---is that glue pale yellow?

durobond

Elmers makes a brownish "wood glue" that is hard to beat.

Actually just plain old Elmers is good.

Gene

Weldwood resorcinol glue is used in structural applications where failure isn't an option (homebuilt aircraft wing spar buildup). It's a two-part glue, a powder and a liquid that get mixed together. Has a longer setup time than most epoxies, but in my opinion it's stronger when it sets up. The glue is dark in color, so you'll have a dark bond line, which in some uses is not acceptable. In that case, I'd recommend a good long cure time epoxy (around 24 hour cure or UV cure)

x2 on gorilla glue

Didn't you see one of Billy Mays last demonstrations? Mighty Putty Wood, but wait there's more... if call right now we'll send you another tube free, just pay extra shipping. They towed a big ship by glueing 2 oars together with the Mighty Putty Wood. They probably used a case of it but that's OK. Dave

It depends on what your doing. But in most cases white Elmers is as strong as anything and easy to use. In extreme cases the Weldwood is stronger.
White glue properly applied will be stronger than the wood around it.

Just plain old Elmers yellow wood glue. I have used it for years on wood. It will hold just as good as anything else out there.

Yes I haven't used it for while.
Walt

To all the people who have suggested Gorilla glue, I would comment that it is a VERY good glue. Just be careful using the stuff, because unlike Elmers wood glue, it expands a lot while it is drying.

Titebond yellow wood glue.

There is a Gorilla wood glue. I used some and some was squeshed out and I tried to pick off the dried drop/strip and I couldn't budge it. I know with Elmers i could have peeled it off. There are specialty glues beyond general wood working,
Norm uses something that he calls stronger but I have never caught the name.

In the blue bottle.It is waterproof.

Vito

Gorrila Glue.Use sparingly and follow directions,don't get it on your hands.

I"ve pretty much settled on TiteBond Ultimate III I think it is--green label. anyway, that"s what works for me with my woodowrking projects.

I"ve learned the hardway that it tkaes a lot less glue thasn peopl think.

Fred's correct, resourcinol with its structural rating. It also has no problem with wet locations, if that's an issue. Has no creep, common with aliphatic resin glues (Titebonds and such). Does have a long cure time at 70ºF.

It's a staple in my shop, worth the extra effort for some projects. Has a long open time for assembly. Excellent for bent laminations.

But you didn't say what your need is, resourcinol is not the best glue for all applications. If you need flex for instance. Either aliphatic resins or polyurethanes are better there. And nothing replaces good joinery.

I'v had good luck with Liquid Nails Constuction Adhesive. Comes in a tube so you need a caulk gun for it, May come in bottles I dont know.

Gorilla is the answer. Follow the directions (it needs a bit of moisture to work. A lot of it is a bad idea. It needs to be clamped or held in location for an hour after application, in 3 to 4 it is very tough. JimN

You didn't give enough information. Most wood glues will create a joint stronger than the surrounding wood. But you need to know the application to pick the appropriate glue.

The strongest, most water-resistant glue is epoxy. If you're bulding a boat or airplane, epoxy is about the only glue to consider. WEST System epoxy is the standard by which epoxy wood glues are measured.

Resorcinol is good, but it doesn't have the gap-filling capability of epoxy. I don't care for it because it stains wood red, but it's still a good choice for many applications.

The various yellow glues are good for most applications, but they lack water resistance. The higher-end PVA yellow glues like Titebond III have water resistance, but I wouldn't compare them with epoxy or resorcinol. You need to use yellow glue with biscuit joints, because the glue makes the biscuits expand. The biggest problem with yellow glues is they set very fast, which can be a problem with a complicated setup.

I don't care for the urethane glues like Gorilla Glue. They expand when they set and make a big mess that's impossible to clean up. However, one urethane adhesive I use for difficult applications is 3M 5200 Marine Sealant. It comes in a caulk tube, and can be used as a glue when you need a lot of flexibility. It is very strong.

I don't have any experience with hide glues, but I understand they're a good choice when you need a slow-setting glue.

You didn't give enough information. Most wood glues will create a joint stronger than the surrounding wood. But you need to know the application to pick the appropriate glue.

The strongest, most water-resistant glue is epoxy. If you're bulding a boat or airplane, epoxy is about the only glue to consider. WEST System epoxy is the standard by which epoxy wood glues are measured.

Resorcinol is good, but it doesn't have the gap-filling capability of epoxy. I don't care for it because it stains wood red, but it's still a good choice for many applications.

The various yellow glues are good for most applications, but they lack water resistance. The higher-end PVA yellow glues like Titebond III have water resistance, but I wouldn't compare them with epoxy or resorcinol. You need to use yellow glue with biscuit joints, because the glue makes the biscuits expand. The biggest problem with yellow glues is they set very fast, which can be a problem with a complicated setup.

I don't care for the urethane glues like Gorilla Glue. They expand when they set and make a big mess that's impossible to clean up. However, one urethane adhesive I use for difficult applications is 3M 5200 Marine Sealant. It comes in a caulk tube, and can be used as a glue when you need a lot of flexibility. It is very strong.

I don't have any experience with hide glues, but I understand they're a good choice when you need a slow-setting glue.

Mark B gave a very good answer, but again what's the application? What you are gluing is as important as the glue you use. Another thing is if the wood has been sitting for more than a week or two, you may need to freshen up the gluing surfaces with a light sanding. Wood that has been sitting around will not absorb the glue into the pores and it will sit on the surface and not bound well even if it is quality glue.

Jiles-
At the risk of piling on yet another reply, I think I might be able to sort out all of these responses, as I have used almost all the ones mentioned.

1. Part of the challenge of woodworking is to design joints so that you don't rely only on the glue to hold two pieces together. Over time, with the natural wood movement, any glue joint will fail. A good joint will merely need taken apart, cleaned up, and reglued for another 50 years service.


2. For most indoor woodworking, the Titebond with the red top will do just fine, though it needs to be kept fresh. Buy from some place where you can reasonably assume they have a good turnover of stock, and write the date on the bottle. In only a few months, you can notice a change in viscosity. Throw it out and buy fresh. Blue top is "waterproof", meaning it can't be reversed with water the same way the redtop supposedly can. Nothing wrong with the stuff, I just think other adhesives are better for outdoors- read on.

3. For outdoor work, and for any time I needed a longer open time for a complicated glueup, I use Gorilla Glue. I've never found the "expansion" a problem- it only means I used too much. It's easy to clean off, won't interfere with finishes like yellow glue, and it's very strong. Downside is, if you get it on your fingers, Mineral Spirits will remove it if you can wipe it off immediately, otherwise you'll have to wait for it to wear off. I've tried other brands of polyurethane glue, but keep coming back to Gorilla Glue.

4. West System epoxy is a very fine product, but the mixing is messy and wasteful unless you have a particular need (you typically find it in marine stores- that should tell you something), so I rarely used it.

5. Hide glue is smelly and messy, but I've used it for veneering. Luthiers use it because it's reversible.

Bottom line, the better you are with your woodworking skills, the less it matters what glue you use. If you're a sloppy woodworker, no glue is going to make you into a good one.

Read the cautions on the lable.Gorilla glue can cause lung problems.Plus most of it will get thrown out,sets up in the bottle.