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Farmall A - Stuck Engine

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
My Farmall A engine is stuck. I've put a lot of different liquids in the plugs and exhaust, but nothing. I'm taking the oil pan off, and, if necessary, looking at the block and the pistons. I have the bolts off the oil pan, but can't break it loose. Anything I'm missing to get the oil pan off? And, anything important when trying to get it unstuck?
 
you may need to slide a putty knife in on the pan gasket to get the pan off, sometimes they are stuck good. i just got an allis b broke loose that ran when parked over 5 years ago. i started with pb blaster, shot some in each cylinder for a week. drain the oil and then put a pan under the oil pan, watch for the penetrating oil to start dripping out after a while. from there i went to 50/50 dextron trans fluid and acetone, applying some every day and had weights hanging on the crank and rear wheel with tractor in gear. went back with pb blaster last week and it finally broke loose. take the valve cover off and be sure all the valves are loose so you dont bend a pushrod when she breaks loose.
 
Oil pans can get stuck on pretty good.
You may only have one piston that is actually stuck and it will be the one that has the exhaust valve open. If you're going to pull it in gear to try and break it loose I would remove the rocker arm assembly and make sure all the valves are closed.
 
Did you get the bolts across the rear? You have to remove the half-moon cover at the front of the torque tube to get to them. If you got those out and she's still stuck, then it's time for a thin, stiff scraper to see if you can get find a weak spot to get through and then work your way around. Be patient and work your way around so that you don't distort the rim of the pan by pulling too hard on it before you have enough of the gasket loose. Sometimes it's easier to get the putty knife started at the front or rear, where you might find some advantage from oil seeping from the seals down onto the outside of the gasket.
 
I would pull the head and see how bad the sleeves are rusted. Soak the pistons with ATF and let it soak. If it doesn't free up unbolt the rod caps and use a piece of 2X2 oak and drive out the piston by driving on the connecting rod. Those are wet sleeves and they may come out with the piston. If the piston comes with a sleeve use an acetylene torch to heat the sleeve to free the piston. I would install a new sleeve kit and use the old connecting rods on the new pistons. When I did a stuck A I pulled the engine since it was easier to work on. You may as well have the crankshaft measured for wear too. Then your engine will last a long time. Good time to look at the clutch too. Hal
 
I don't know what your situation is and how your motor was stuck but would like to remind you to check and be sure your starter is not locked.

Our A misterously was stuck one day. Let it sit for a year thinking the worst when one day finally pulled the starter and its been running great since. It was a real kick in the pants when all it took was 5 min to fix it.
 
I don"t know how you"re equipped but it"s not hard at all to remove the engine. It just takes basic tools for the nuts and bolts. A few blocks will hold up the rear end and torque tube and you can manhandle the front end away from the engine. The engine is light enough to hang from the rafters if you don"t have a hoist.

Then you can put the engine where you can easily work on it cause you"re gonna have to remove the sleeves anyway.Good luck and let us know how it works out.Jim
 
By removing the pan, you will not see much. I would start at the top. Remove the plugs, and with a small light try to see the piston, or cylinder wall. If that doesn't work remove the head. Stan
 
like others have said, try to see in the plug holes to see if the cyld/pistons have rusted up. If it looks clean, i'd put auto trans fluid and some diesel in for a week or so. Then with a good battery try bumping the starter a few times. We got a 9N freed up that way and it had a weak battery and weak starter.
 
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