OT, 1984 chevy blazer engine swap

Hey all:

I've got an 84 chevy blazer 4x4 with 6.2 diesel and turbo 400 tranny, appears engine blew up. Whats it take to convert it to gas? What do you use for motor mounts, ones for a 350? What do you run for flexplate and torque converter? Will the ones for the diesel work or do I have to get ones for a gas? How about linkages for throttle, exhaust, etc? Does anything else need done to transmission, i thought i heard once the tranny governor needed changed to a gas one but am not sure.

Thanks

Seems it would be easier to stick another 6.2 in. There are plenty good running 6.2s around cheap.

Motor mounts will match up. Exhaust for the 6.2 will be dual, so you'll have to alter it to fit a gas engine.

6.2 flywheel is different than for a gas engine.
Torque converter is usually the same for a 6.2 as used for a small block (same basic torque/stall speed).

Blazers with 6.2s and TH400s were never made for civilian use. So, either it's already been changed, or you have a military rig. TH400 trans when hooked to the 6.2 was governed a little different than gas. Not sure how well it'll work with the diesel governor.
If this IS a civilian Blazer and therefore someone swapped that TH400 in there, check to see if it has a mechanical modulator or a vacuum modulator. Many diesel Blazers that got swapped from 700R4s to TH400s got mechanical modulator kits.

Are you sure it's not a 700R4 tranny ?

I did this swap in my 1983 pick-up many years ago. I put in a small block. A 1968 or 1969 ? 327
For the small block you take the motor mounts right off the 6.2 and put them on the gas engine.
Any flex plate for the gas should let the diesel torque converter bolt up. If you have the right parts like cable and brackets for the gas throttle it should hook right up.
The hardest part is the power steering bracket. The diesel ps pump is bigger as it runs the brake booster. They should of made a bracket for this set up but I couldn't find the right one so I made one out of the 6.2 bracket. I think I just had to saw off the upper adjuster and relocate it and weld it back on. I think the bottom part fit right on.
I used the diesel radiator. Just made an adapter out of exhaust pipe to reduce the size of the upper hose to fit the small block. Lower hose I think the diesel one fit by cutting it and then I added an inline block heater in it to adapt it or make it fit ? Maybe it was the gas lower hose ? it could of been ? Strip the wiring harness out and move it over and use the power wire to the pump to run your HEI coil. All in all it was an easy swap.

its ex military, 6.2 hd (non emissions) and th400. I'd like to find another good 6.2 but cannot find one cheap and close. salvage yards want like 1200 bucks, thats more of a 1st gen 5.9 cummins price.

Thanks,

John

its ex military, 6.2 hd (non emissions) and th400. I'd like to find another good 6.2 but cannot find one cheap and close. salvage yards want like 1200 bucks, thats more of a 1st gen 5.9 cummins price.

Thanks,

John

There are many around in the $150-$300 price ranges. You just have to look around. I've got five or six good running 6.2s in storage. Also have five trucks with good running 6.2s plus a mini-motorhome on a K5 Blazer. Last one I bought came in a complete good running 1991 4WD Suburban with 110K miles on it. It was a local school vehicle. I bought it for $200 on sealed bid. Runs great but a rust-bucket. Nice thing is I know that is the original miles. I have too many and will never use what I've got, so I tend to pass them up now unless free. Last year, a local guy traded me a good running 82 K10 6.2 diesel truck, and running 86 diesel Blazer with bad trans, and a 88 6.2 perfect running 4WD Suburban with no title - all for 100 bales of hay (value of $150).

Biggest problem with buying is . . . if it's out of the vehicle, you don't know what shape it's in. In fact, even when IN the vehicle, most have 5 digit odometers. A perfect running 6.2 might have an odometer that reads 22K, and you won't know if it's 124,000 or 324,000 miles. My 87 Suburban made it to 520,000 before the original 6.2 blew to pieces. When it was at 519,900 miles it ran like a new engine.

And, shipping is also an issue. I've got a couple of 6.2s I bought from the West Coast. I paid $100 each and they supposedly have less then 100K miles. But, shipping ran me over $400 each, and that was with a special deal. I only bought them because they came as package deals with Banks turbos.

I don't find many 5.9 Cummins that cheap. I've been wanting to buy a 3.9 turbo Cummins with Chevy adapter for a long time they alway go for more then $2000. Cummins made them special to replace 6.2 diesels in bread vans.

A 1992 or 1993 6.5 diesel has a mechanical injection fuel pump and will work in place of a 6.2. This engine is bored out .075 when compared to the 6.2. The 6.5 block was alsso beef up some on the lower end.

"The 6.5 block was alsso beef up some on the lower end."

Can you back that statement up with some verifiable FACTS?

Nothing was beefed up. The last 6.2 made shared the same block as the 6.5, so it was considered one of the best 6.2s. Used a new one-piece rear main seal and new crankshaft. The block did not get beefed up at all. Later bigger bore 6.5s had thinner cylinder walls, not thicker.

What did happen is finally with some of the last 6.5s made, the outside main bearing bolts were made smaller. Taken down from 12 mm to 10 mm to leave more metal in the clamping area of the main cap. That was a problem area that caused many blocks to crack and crankshafts to break.

I was one of two instructors for GM that help develop the 6.5 diesel training course when the injection pump was mechanical, I was in the meetings with the engineers. I am not an employee, but a contract instructor.