Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
What would miminum thickness be for a concrete slab with reinforcing wire to support a 12 X 16 foot storage shed?
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Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Probably 4 inches with the wire in the center of the slab - that is if your subsoil in firm and your not planning on backing a heavy tractor there. It will probably crack, thats all the wire is for - to control cracks.
Janicholson
Well-known Member
With light material in it 4", with point loaded heavy stuff (a tractor, or jacking on some 6000 lb equipment) 6" If it is a permit required building it will be spec'ed in at the county/city engineers office. JimN
Kow Farmer
Well-known Member
Hi J.,
I would go at least 4" thick with the floor. There are many variables here depending what you plan on using the storage shed for. If you want to park a vehicle in it I would also suggest using 1/2" rebar tied in a 2' square grid pattern for long lasting floor durability. Of course this all depends on your $$$ budget and the longevity of this building for your needs. Hope this helps you out.
Kow Farmer
I would go at least 4" thick with the floor. There are many variables here depending what you plan on using the storage shed for. If you want to park a vehicle in it I would also suggest using 1/2" rebar tied in a 2' square grid pattern for long lasting floor durability. Of course this all depends on your $$$ budget and the longevity of this building for your needs. Hope this helps you out.
Kow Farmer
matt knoeck
New User
4" should work
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
4000 psi concret with fiber in it, no wire is needed cut expanstion joints down the middle and acrosst the middle. 4" will work as long as you have a good base, dirt or stone compacted. If you'r parking something heavy on it like 10,000 lbs or more I'd go with 6" of concret.
huntingreen2day
Member
Use wire or steel. Don't waste your money with the fiberglass.
David - Alabama
Member
4" thick, 3000 lb mix will carry about anything you can put in a 12"x16". I would suggest a 12" wide x 12" deep footing around the perimeter (or deeper if your in extreme cold climate) to prevent washing out from under corners and to prevent frost upheavel.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Make it a bit thicker where the posts sit.
Sean Feeney
Well-known Member
http://www.newnycon.com/techpapers/Concrete%20Reinforcement%20Nycon%20Fibers%20vs.%20Welded%20Wire%20Fabric.pdf
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Fiber is a secondary reinforcment, not to be confused with the most important reinforcment -rebar.
A uniform subgrade is probably the most important thing required for a good job.
If half the slab is a cut, and the other half is fill, it will crack 99% of the time in frost areas.
Since 1964 I have never poured less than a 4,000 # mix.
I would consider 6" if you can afford it, 4 is ok but this is simething you intend on doing once.
Spend a few dollars and put chairs under the rebar so they are in place--lower 1/3 of slab.
I argue these issues on a weekly basis, my coment is always --just drive around town and look for yourself, then come back and we will discus the issue.
I am lucky to work for 99% of the folks that want it to be perfect in the end, not just get by.
A uniform subgrade is probably the most important thing required for a good job.
If half the slab is a cut, and the other half is fill, it will crack 99% of the time in frost areas.
Since 1964 I have never poured less than a 4,000 # mix.
I would consider 6" if you can afford it, 4 is ok but this is simething you intend on doing once.
Spend a few dollars and put chairs under the rebar so they are in place--lower 1/3 of slab.
I argue these issues on a weekly basis, my coment is always --just drive around town and look for yourself, then come back and we will discus the issue.
I am lucky to work for 99% of the folks that want it to be perfect in the end, not just get by.
Make sure you fix the sub-base correctly. I see more concrete and blacktop failures due to cutting corners on the backhoe, gravel, and compaction work than I do on the concrete.
At to strength, I wouldnt even consider pouring that big a slab without rebar AND fiber unless you are cutting expansion joints in it.
At to strength, I wouldnt even consider pouring that big a slab without rebar AND fiber unless you are cutting expansion joints in it.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
2" if you're not driving on it with a payloader or something just as heavy. 6" footing though.
BillinCentralMO
Well-known Member
If you're going to drive a tractor on it , 6" if you don't want it cracked. With all due respect 2" is not going to cut the mustard.
steve n carol
Member
The building is not supported by the 'slab'.
As mentioned, the footing around the perimeter (including the openings/doors), support the building and should all tied in with rebar. The size of the footing depends on the weight of the building. What are the walls made out of? Bricks, block, sheet metal? how high? 8', 14' etc. What kind of roof? (think about the weight). Also the footing holds down a structure...if it's attached to it, and it should be. As the wind goes over the top, it creates 'lift', like an airplane wing, not to mention tornados and such. Just ask Dorthy!
If you have columns in the 'field' of the floor area, a footing ('spread footing) is appropriate, as that column or post will carry some weight as well.
And, as mentioned, check with your county or city, they will give you a free design handout....sl
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