Diesel 3600 tractor elctrical problem

rking

Member
I have a farm tractor that has been running fine. I
went to start it after moving some feed and cows and it is dead. Battery reads 12.57 V. I have jiggled
the gears but still is dead. I have this happen
pretty often but I usually just need to find neutral
with the gears and it will start. Now doesn't turn
over at all. I did notice that I had a little
problem when I turned the tractor off-the diesel
stop control was hard to pull out.
 
sounds like the neutral safety switch is bad if you have had to often giggle the levers to get it to start
 
Hello rking,
The 12.57v is normal voltage for a charged battery. Battery voltage is not reaching the starter. The simplest thing to start checking are the battery cables. The ground on the engine side. You can go to the starter cable/s and see if you get lucky. Post more info on your system for more help.
Good hunting.........Guido.
 
Check the negative battery cable at the starter case lug.I've had several that lost contact there.If you can move it and the tractor starts then,move the connection to one of the starter mounting bolts.That lug will get loose and coroded and give problems.
 
Make sure you have the tractor in neutral before you start your diagnosis. It will start in gear if you jumper the solenoid. You probably already know that, but just in case. . .

Local guy got hurt BAD a few years ago. I think he knew - just in a hurry and slipped up.

Paul
 
Symptoms are just like mine earlier this year so I will relate my process when my 3600D would not start this spring.

****MAKE SURE TRACTOR IS IN NEUTRAL****

Since you have 12+ volts lets assume battery is OK. If you don't completely trust the battery put jumper cables or a booster box on it.

Jumper solenoid at starter if this forces tractor to turn over it is somewhere in the small wires.

It is simple to isolate the neutral switch. Follow wires that come from the transmission cover and remove lower cowl cover. Pull 2 plugs that are behind cover and jumper the ends together. If tractor starts now it is a bad neutral switch.

Since you now have the cowl off it is simple to remove the key switch and use a volt meter to see if voltage is ending up where it should to isolate which small wire it might be (or possibly a bad switch).

Now my experience this spring was that the starter would not spin when jumpered so i pulled it and took it over to my local rebuild shop and they tested it as good. Had 12 volts at the right places so started looking at the rest of the start circuit and had voltage everywhere it should be. Bought new battery cables and replaced and everything worked fine again. Spent a couple of days pulling my hair out and bugging the folks on these boards before I broke down and picked up new cables. Cables were corroded enough that they would let small enough current flow to read voltage, but when starter actually wanted to engage they would not let enough current flow (My simplified layman's understanding).

Hope that all helps some,

Kirk
 
Thanks for all the advise. The battery cables are fairly new and heavy duty. The connections at the battery aren't corroded. Kirk, thanks for the detailed information about the electrical system.

I am unable to work on the tractor for a few days but will let you know how I make out. I had some confusing alternator problems a few years ago so I'll get the volt meter back out.
 
I know what you mean about not always being able to do tractor work. I have a "real" job that sometimes keeps me away from our horse hobby for weeks at a time so when tractor does not work and I spend time troubleshooting instead of chores it is painful. Check all connections for "clean, bright, and tight" not just the battery ends. As somebody else noted the "ground" end of the battery cable at the starter can lose good electrical contact over time as well.

Good Luck,

Kirk
 
I had an hour this afternoon before dark to check out the tractor. Still no start-

I cleaned the battery terminals (though they didn’t seem corroded) and they are bright and shiny and tight. I checked the negative cable which is attached to the starter lug nut. It was so tight that I couldn’t remove it to clean so I sprayed it with battery terminal protector. The positive attachment to the starter I tighten a small amount.

I “jumped the solenoid” and did not have any response from the starter. I got a strong spark when I wasn’t making good contact. I used a screwdriver to do this.

Two questions:

1. Can I check voltage at the solenoid? Without making a big spark.
2. What would you suspect? The solenoid looks easier to remove than the starter and I thought I noticed one on the Walt’s Tractor Website for about $10-15.

I really appreciate all of the advice especially relating to safety.
 
It will spark when making a connection, Are you jumping the small wire on the solenoid to the positive terminal on the battery or the large post on the solenoid in which the positive wire from the battery connects to? Even if the solenoid is bad you should hear it still click all it is, is a relay in which it connects the two large posts together when you put 12V on the smaller terminal.
 
I wasn't sure how to make the jump-I was told that
a screwdriver touched to the large post on the
solenoid (where the positive battery cable
attaches) across to the tractor body or frame
would work. This technique had been used on a
riding mower years ago when the neutral safety
switch had gone bad.

When I used the screwdriver blade, the solenoid
did not click.

Any information would be helpful-thanks
 

rking [/quote] wasn't sure how to make the jump-I was told that
a screwdriver touched to the large post on the
solenoid (where the positive battery cable
attaches) across to the tractor body or frame
would work

With tractor gearshift in neutral,short across large post on solenoid that + battery cable is attached to small post that is marked "S"(start)
 
(quoted from post at 11:43:49 10/22/09)
rking
wasn't sure how to make the jump-I was told that
a screwdriver touched to the large post on the
solenoid (where the positive battery cable
attaches) across to the tractor body or frame
would work

With tractor gearshift in neutral,short across large post on solenoid that + battery cable is attached to small post that is marked "S"(start)[/quote]

OK,
I used a wire to jump across the correct connections you mentioned on the solenoid and I the starter spun! I assume that means the starter and solenoid work and are not the problem?

Should I target the safety neutral switch next?
 

I am trying to find the neutral safety switch. I pulled the lower covers off the tractor that reveal the throttle linkage and the wires coming out of the transmission cover. I took a picture of where I am looking but I don't see anything resembling the part I saw on Walt's tractor supply.
a6293.jpg
 
Success!! The problem is the neutral safety
switch. I bypassed the connection to this switch
and the tractor started. At least I have the
tractor back undercover where I can work on it.

(I got rained on the day that I was trying to
“jump the solenoid”)

I got a diagram from the tractor dealer of the
safety switch location. Looks very intimidating
to change! I have an old farm truck (Ford 1977)
that doesn’t have safety switches and I guess I
need to figure out if I need to replace this
switch on the tractor.

Thank you so much for all your advice and help. I
know that you all have years of experience. It is
very generous that you are willing to take the
time to share it with us novices.
 
Disconnect the wires that come out of trans top cover, with trans in neutral check Ohms across the wires. if nothing, remove trans top cover and replace your safety switch, it is in the top of trans with your shifter rails, easy fix.
 
(quoted from post at 04:38:41 10/24/09) Disconnect the wires that come out of trans top cover, with trans in neutral check Ohms across the wires. if nothing, remove trans top cover and replace your safety switch, it is in the top of trans with your shifter rails, easy fix.

Thanks-I'll try it tommorow morning.
 

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