pole barn trusses - part II

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
From the first post, I found out that the "used" trusses were manufactured for a 2' o.c. So I did some searching on the internet & found some other trusses that I think would work for me & seem easy enough to install. They are steel webbed trusses for a "hybrid" pole barn. You can see these at discountmetalroofing.com Manufacturer says they can be put at 12' o.c. & will have a 49.7#/s.f. snow-load. They have a 4/12 pitch. A 30' truss runs around $247. I plan on using the building (30' x 48') for hay & trailer storage with leaving one of the 48' sides completely open, so it would be nice to have enough room to get round/large squares in the bays with the tractor. Does anybody know anything about these steel webbed trusses? ANY information is greatly appreciated!
 
I built the ones in my 36'x60' pole barn from plans I got at Cooperative Extension. They have a lot of different designs and suggestions all based on solid engineering. I bought rough cut lumber from a saw mill. I saved a bundle over buying from a lumber yard.
It's still standing after 10 NY winters.
 
I'm not aware of any 12 foot spans here in the northern climates. 8 foot, sometimes 9 foot, is max.

If you are in the south, things are done different there.

--->Paul
 
Trusses are not the only way to build a pole barn. I built a 48 X 30 pole barn in 1997 using a ridge beam that I built mostly up in place. used 2x8 with plywood to build the beam and had one center post in shed. Enclosed 3 sides and steel roof with no sheeting. Still is pretty good. ALso dry. Henry
 
Before you discard the idea of using the original trusses, consider what you're using for roofing. If you're going with steel and the trusses were designed for plywood & shingles, they might work fine at 4' OC. Checking with the manufacturer is the only way to know.
 
If you presently have the 13 trusses, why not price out getting as many more as you need to finish at either a 2' or 4' spacing?
Just keep in mind that the 4' spacing will have deeper top and bottom chords and probably heavier webbing but there's not really any reason they couldn't be joined to form a roof. It'll probably look 'added' on to... but it will work.
Steel will likely be more money.
There's a lot of ways to skin the cat. Just make sure that you get a truss heavy enough for your local snow and wind loads. Probably the best way to do that is by going with a locally supplied, pre-engineered truss...

Rod
 

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