Combine repairs

Dan-IA

Member
I was wondering how you guys patch the underside of the augers in your combines as they get older and start leaking a bit. Duct tape works in the field for a couple days, but doesn't last. And in some places like the bottom of the grain tank where you have to tape inside instead of outside the tube duct tape won't hold.

I don't know hardly anything about using a torch and metalworking (welding/brazing) that way, and this stuff is thin enough I'd expect it'd burn right through anyway. I'm wondering about fiberglass resin or body putty or JBWeld or something to cram in there and smear over the holes like blackjack on a leaky roof. Any recommendations?

Also I mentioned the wooden blocks on the combine forum. In my 510 Massey I tend to break blocks used for bearings under the grain pan and strawwalker, especially if the machine plugs up with too much bean straw. I also sometimes break a strawwalker and that almost always breaks the blocks. Anybody know where I can get spares?
Thanks!
 
Before I owned a wire feed, I used to pop-rivet sheets of tin under the augers in the grain tank, clean grain and tailings on the machines I ran. But I"m unfamiliar with a "510", and that won"t help an unload auger that needs support. If your going to keep it, it needs to be fixed right eventually.
 

I've either fitted a new piece of sheet over the bad area and welded it or pop riveted it, depending on the location...

OR

fitted a piece of thin wall pipe (like 8" or 10" or so) cut longitudinally and adjusted to fit the contour of the auger tube, depending on whether it was unloading tube, bin floor, etc...


HH
 
i have used fiberglas cloth and resin,put about three layers of it on about three seasons ago still holding probably better than steel
 
I have no idea what the thing looks like, but I picture it being round? Why can't you cut a large inner tube into strips and wrap it around the hole. I think the rubber will last a long time. Stan
 
We had a decent size hole in the grain head for the 6620 JD combine, we cut a piece of sheet metal, (think it was flashing- kinda thin but..you know how that goes when you need it back in the field like asap). The only trouble was the auger was kind of in the way, and so is the reel, ( use care around the reel, I wear safety glasses and a hard hat, always seem to bump my head etc.) so it was difficult to get the rivet gun in the middle and fasten those areas, so we used silicon caulk/sealant. Not long after, the auger chewed up the bearing on one side, so it had to come out for repairs anyway, funny thing was, no one completed rivetting that sheet. One thing was certain, the way that auger end is built, was not impressive, kind of weak in my opinion.
 
Howard hit the nail on the head. If you don't feel you want to work with heavier tin, find some thin walled tube, like round furnace duct slit it with a snips (wear leather gloves) and pop rivet it on. It'll getcha goin. If it wears through, drill out the rivets and put another one on.Jim
 
I agree with Howard and Fixerupper.....I've used furnace ducting in a push. Buy a length at HD, cut it lengthways with tin snips, spring it to the profile you need, and pop rivet, or bolt it on. You can also buy plastic / poly auger bed liners from some of the combine places.
Can't you buy the new wooden blocks from MF? I've replaced them on IH / Case combines, but only when the holes wear....never broken one. I guess you could try making them out of oak or similar hard wood if you can't buy them
Chris
 

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