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*8N won't start

J

JohnKamerer

Member
I pick up a 1950 8N w/sidemount distributor. Had it running at different times, but with lots of back firing. Then decided to tear it down and restore it. Now iI have it looking good and it won't start. Did do a 12v convert. (get all my stuff from YT) Have great spark (will jump a 3/16 gap bright blue) Pulled head off - brought piston up to TDC - both valves closed and have marks on flywheel set to 4*. Set Distributor rotor on #1 plug. Wires are rotaring 1-2-4-3 CCW. Now the bad news I can't even get a back fire. Carb has been taken apart many times to make sure I have fuel passing through. Seems like I don't have a lot of suction at the carb throat and plugs don't seen wet. Any Ideas? Jk
 
Make sure your valves have enough clearance & do a compression test. Check the intake manifold & carburetor to make sure they're not leaking. They may need to be tightened. Hal
 
This would have been a great question to post in the ford N forum.. where the ford experts hang out.

will it pop on starter fluid?

post back.

soundguy
 
(quoted from post at 03:52:19 10/01/09) Make sure your valves have enough clearance & do a compression test. Check the intake manifold & carburetor to make sure they're not leaking. They may need to be tightened. Hal
Click to expand...

I forgot to mention that I have 130+ psi on all cyclinders. I removed the manifold and did a visual and see nothing out of the way. I was thinking last night while sleeping that it might have something to do with the throttle body venturi. anythoughts there? It won't fire on starting fluid either.
 
is it firing when you turn tractor over with starter or when you manually open points...make sure its firing with starter...dirty points will fire when you open them with a screwdriver and not with the starter.
 
(quoted from post at 09:19:53 10/01/09) is it firing when you turn tractor over with starter or when you manually open points...make sure its firing with starter...dirty points will fire when you open them with a screwdriver and not with the starter.
Click to expand...

I have great fire with starter - key on and no fire with key off. All plugs will jump a good size gap. I'm thinking I don't have a timing or spark problem now.

I must thank everyone who replys. (and so quickly) as it a great help to have so many heads to pick thoughts from.
 
dont take this as a slam cause i've done it and felt like a complete fool when i found problem...you didnt by any chance stick a rag in intake manifold to keep critters out when you had carb off did ya??? its hard to see on those updraft manifolds.
 
just for grins,move your plug wires 180 degrees and see what happens.

you pulled the head and checked the valves @ tdc
both were closed.which case #1 and4 valves should all be closed.

it may be timed at exhuast instead of compression
 
Hold your hand over the throat of the carburetor
and see if there's good suction. If that is good. I would bring No1 piston near the radiator to TDC on the compression stroke then see where your rotor is pointing. Note which way the rotor turns as your plug wires need to go on the cap & to the plugs in the correct firing order. Hal
 

I have now set cam to crank with #1 & #4 valves closed. Problem at TDC 0* #1 exhust is slightly open. Does this mean I need to adjust the valves?
#3 exhust valve is open and #2 intrake is starting to open. does thuis sound close to being correct?
 
if you are properly timed on #1 tdc compression,then # 2 intake should be about to close not open.
roll the engine over(the right direction) and if # 1 exhuast completely closes and the intake valve
starts to open then your not on #1 compression ,you are on # 4 compression
 
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