Dan-IA

Member
Got me a Flotec 220V 1/2HP submersible water pump in the well. Lately I have been seeing the lights blink when I pumped water.

Checked out the control box and it was all black on top of the run capacitor. Best I could figure by the cocoon on the bottom was that a caterpillar crawled in the box, hatched out as a moth and landed on top of the run cap. Whether it was dead when juice was applied or not we'll never know, but what was left when I found it looked more like pinfeathers from a bird and a big black spot on the cover. Virtually nothing left.

But my question is this. It's a 220V pump. When I put the cover back on I bent the L1 pin the first time. Second time it went back okay and the pump runs, but it seems to me like the water rushing in doesn't seem so loud. Is it possible I'm only running it on 110V on the L2 side? I'm told that can cause overheating but on a submerged pump I don't expect that to be a problem. Is there an easy way to check if I am running 110 or 220 without pulling the control box cover back off? the pins lock together when you close the box.
 
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I took a pic with my phone. Just a tad dark above that cap!
 
I don't think it would run at all on 110, I would suspect a bad capacitor. You could take a load reading on both legs at your disconnect to verify that it's running on 220. when submersible pumps loose volume I think it's usually because the impellers are worn out from abrasive material in the water. I installed that same pump at my former house and it ran well.
 
It had a WHOOOSH!ing sound everytime it kicked in before I had the cover off, even when it was arcing inside the cover and making the lights blink.

I don't know how to do a load test. The capactor looked a little messy so I cleaned up the contacts and blew the gunk out of the lid, and tested the cap with a meter. Set at 2000Ohms, it read a little charge and quickly lost it again. Dad said that is how a good one should test.
 
Hi Dan,

Since you don't know about electricity, take it too a qualified sparky and have the wires and start components replaced.

I would check too see if a "new" complete unit would be more cost effective.

T_Bone
 
Hi twopop,

This is very common configuration on compressors(both refer and air), fans, deep well pumps, etc;

The motor is designed to start like a 3ph motor but runs like a 2ph motor, hence the start components.

Thus the motor has more starting torque.

T_Bone
 
twopop, dunno what you mean. Out here we wire 220 with a common ground and two 110s that are 180' out of phase so the meter reads 220. 110 on L1, 110 on L2, 110+110=220. Easy
 

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