still trying to figure out which baler....

Hey folks,
Finally got it through my head that you folks don't have the same equipment as here (model#, etc) The MF balers here are made in france prolly only work on tractors with a good reverse gear :roll: .
Anyway......... Anyone know of an online source (or books) for info that will give me a general idea of how this stuff works and what usually can go wrong. What to look at when buying, etc????

Hard to get that kind of info out of folks here.... Local dealer said I should stay away from anything JD, MF, IHC, and some other brands because of parts availability. But I found a few smaller MF's that look to be in real good shape for little bucks (half what a Welger which he recommended costs).

Thanks, Dave

Can't help you on books except to ask dealers or the manufacturer for specifications.

The Welger I saw demonstrated at a farm show made a 4 x 5 bale extremly tight, probably made heavier bale than a regular 5 x 6 baler, but it took 80 hp to run it.

Bearings wear out on balers, so look for condition of bearings(probably have to hear it run, which is a good idea anyway).

If the sheet metal in the sides are worn thin and especiall if they have holes worn in them it is a well used baler and you should walk away from it.

It's sort of obvious when belts on a belt baler get worn, but the belts can go a long time looking pretty ratty. If a lot of the lacing is torn then that will be an expense. Generally, if you have to have the lacing replaced in one you need to have them all done so they all will be trimmed to right length.

When seeing it run, look at the end of the shafts to see if they wobble, wobbling means bent shaft. Don't listen to any bull about how long a bent shaft will keep working. If there is a chain drive sprocket on a bent shaft it is putting uneven stress on the chain.

Look at sprockets to see if they have been worn down to sharp pointed teeth. If they have they need replacing and probably the chain is worn out also.

Check condition of pto shaft. Look at gear box, check for leaks, be sure box is bolted to frame tightly.

Look for cracks in frame. Sometimes operator will try to close lid on bale that is not completely out of the baler which often cracks frame.

Finally, look for one with close, good dealer support.

BTW, round balers were pretty well perfected by 1990, not that new ones haven't been improved. Those made earlier than the late 1980s are suspect IMO in that later models are so much better.

KEH

Found this site, hope it will help
Untitled URL Link

Do yall have Vermeer equipment over there? The best part about the older vermeer balers (I have never had any dealings with newer ones) is every bearing on the thing can be found at NAPA for less than half the price of any of the stuff you can only get painted green or red from a dealer.

Good luck.

Dave

(quoted from post at 19:12:37 08/27/09) Do yall have Vermeer equipment over there? The best part about the older vermeer balers (I have never had any dealings with newer ones) is every bearing on the thing can be found at NAPA for less than half the price of any of the stuff you can only get painted green or red from a dealer.

Good luck.

Dave

Click to expand...

Good to know. Guess I'll go with the advice of the local parts guy and go with a Welger which is supposed to be a partner of Vermeer. Not sure how far back it goes. Think if I get a good one to begin with and give it a once over then stay on top of cleaning and lubeing, I should be OK. If it does a thousand bales a year with me it'll be the hardest it works. Just have to scratch my head a little and figure out how it works.

Dave