I'm going overseas for a year courtesy of Uncle Sam. I gotta get my Farmall M ready to sit a year. I plan on changing the engine oil, anitfreeze and putting Armour All on the tires(they're only about a year old). I'll also disconnect the battery and put it in the garage attached to the house to keep it somewhat warm in the winter. I'm gonna keep about five gallons of gas in it with stabilizer to keep seals from drying out, and I'm not gonna change the Hytrans because that's just too much fluid to change out for one year IMHO, is there any additive I could put in the tranny for condensation? It will be in an un-heated shed. Am I leaving anything out?
- Thread starter John S-B
- Start date
In addition to plenty of Sta Bil in the GAS, I add low ash combustible two cycle motor oil (like Mercury Quicksilver) also. I mix it and the Sta Bil well and run the engine so it gets into the carb and passges etc and then shut down the engine by turning the gas off n letting her starve. Its my idea the 2 cycle oil may leave a film residue in the carb to help prevent rust. Mine have started right off after winter storage when Ive done this. The next spring I open the carbs lower drain plug and turn the gas on n let a lot of gas run through to help flush away any varnish before starting.
Keep tires off the earth and maybe apply a light fine mist of clean oil on surfaces that may rust.
Where possible, I like to store them with the ignition points OPEN. Its best if the battery is kept inside and its best if its kept charged
Some people put kerosene in the tank and let the carb fill with it n keep it full of it for storage but I dont do that
John T
Keep tires off the earth and maybe apply a light fine mist of clean oil on surfaces that may rust.
Where possible, I like to store them with the ignition points OPEN. Its best if the battery is kept inside and its best if its kept charged
Some people put kerosene in the tank and let the carb fill with it n keep it full of it for storage but I dont do that
John T
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
If it where me I would drain the gas and put maybe a qt of oil in the tank and let it fill the carb etc. Gas now days goes bad in just a couple weeks and does funny things with the alcohol in it. I would also put some oil or ATF in each of the cylinders to help keep them from rusting up or maybe even fill them that way you know for sure they will not rust up. Any more I never leave gas in the tanks of my tractor even over winter because of how bad the gas is now days
Uncle Ernie
Member
A year? Shut it off and start it when you need it again. Lots of tractors sit that long with no problems. What you are planning is good insurance but extremes that will require lots of Undoing are a waste of time for only a year of sitting.
I'd change the oil for sure, anti freeze would depend on how old it is.
I'd add Sta-bil to gas is in the tank, start the engine, and shut off the gas at the tank to let the carb run out of gas.
A bit of oil down each plug hole will help the rings.
When you take the battery out make sure it is completly charged. A trickle charger hooked to an automatic garage door LIGHT outlet will give it a small charge anytime the door is activated. No one even needs to watch it. End result is battery stays charged.
You need to jack the tractor up and support it so the tires are not in contact with the dirt AND reduce the air pressure. I'd say the pressure should be from 5-8 lbs.
Anything you do now will make it that much easier to start when you get back.
THANK YOU for your service and will keep you in our prayers.
oleblu
I'd add Sta-bil to gas is in the tank, start the engine, and shut off the gas at the tank to let the carb run out of gas.
A bit of oil down each plug hole will help the rings.
When you take the battery out make sure it is completly charged. A trickle charger hooked to an automatic garage door LIGHT outlet will give it a small charge anytime the door is activated. No one even needs to watch it. End result is battery stays charged.
You need to jack the tractor up and support it so the tires are not in contact with the dirt AND reduce the air pressure. I'd say the pressure should be from 5-8 lbs.
Anything you do now will make it that much easier to start when you get back.
THANK YOU for your service and will keep you in our prayers.
oleblu
First of all thank you for your service..
THen.. if it is a dirt floor and you know the roof is good, get some old barn tin or whatever you can find for the floor to keep moisture away from your tractor... and definitely put it up on blocks and reduce tire pressure.. If the sun gets in to the shed, cover it with some sort of dropcloth to minimize UV damage. Get your favorite anti-critter substance spread around as well...mothballs come to mind. Cover any possible entry point with metal cans that fit tightly or similar protection.
And leave the armorall off the tires. SOme folks think it actually will speed the degradation of the rubber. Cool, dark, and dry is best for rubber. Take the battery right out of the machine and make sure there is no remnants of acid on the battery box.
A light coat of storage oil wouldn't hurt but it does make it more flammable and possibly might stain the paint. On a restored tractor it could cause trouble, for a working tractor, I would do it.
THen.. if it is a dirt floor and you know the roof is good, get some old barn tin or whatever you can find for the floor to keep moisture away from your tractor... and definitely put it up on blocks and reduce tire pressure.. If the sun gets in to the shed, cover it with some sort of dropcloth to minimize UV damage. Get your favorite anti-critter substance spread around as well...mothballs come to mind. Cover any possible entry point with metal cans that fit tightly or similar protection.
And leave the armorall off the tires. SOme folks think it actually will speed the degradation of the rubber. Cool, dark, and dry is best for rubber. Take the battery right out of the machine and make sure there is no remnants of acid on the battery box.
A light coat of storage oil wouldn't hurt but it does make it more flammable and possibly might stain the paint. On a restored tractor it could cause trouble, for a working tractor, I would do it.
greenbeanman in Kansas
Well-known Member
Make sure the exhaust system is capped tightly so that no critter/insects can get in. Depending up air cleaner it may need protection as well.
Peppermint oil or extract is a better deterrent for mice than mothballs. Perhaps fasten some sort of cloth near the seat cushion if it has one and liberally coat it with the oil.
I echo the sentiments and thank you for your service to our country.
Is there a friend, family member, or other that could renew the peppermint extract every few months while you are gone? Better if it was done.
Peppermint oil or extract is a better deterrent for mice than mothballs. Perhaps fasten some sort of cloth near the seat cushion if it has one and liberally coat it with the oil.
I echo the sentiments and thank you for your service to our country.
Is there a friend, family member, or other that could renew the peppermint extract every few months while you are gone? Better if it was done.
bob featherstone
Member
the guy i deal with for tires told me armour all is the worst thing to put on tires
said it sucks the oils out of the tires &dries them out quick
bob
said it sucks the oils out of the tires &dries them out quick
bob
Brian Jasper co. Ia
Well-known Member
I'll add that Napa has engine fogging oil in aerosol cans. If it were mine, I'd drain the fuel system completely. I have an Oliver 60 that sat 32 years in an unheated shed with no fuel or coolant in it. The carb was in good condition when I took it apart. The sleeve seals were dried out and cracked though. Take the battery out so if mice chew wires there is no risk for fire. Neutralize any acid with baking soda. Any holes like clutch inspection holes or other, fill them with steel wool. Mice won't touch steel wool.
Thankyou for your service.
Thankyou for your service.
Paul from MI
Well-known Member
Stabil or equivalent in the gas, Shut off the fuel at the tank and run it out of the carb. Remove plugs and squirt some engine oil in the cylinders. Then turn the engine over a few times. Remove the battery, put it inside on a board, not a concrete floor.
When you get ready to start it, crack the drain plugs for engine and transmission oil enough to drain any condensation. Charge the battery, put in some fresh gas and go.
God bless you for your service to our country. My prayers are with you for your safe return and lots of future time on your tractor.
Paul
When you get ready to start it, crack the drain plugs for engine and transmission oil enough to drain any condensation. Charge the battery, put in some fresh gas and go.
God bless you for your service to our country. My prayers are with you for your safe return and lots of future time on your tractor.
Paul
GeneMO
Well-known Member
- Location
- Pilot Grove, Mo.
I'll swear you have stock in an ATF factory!!
Gene
Gene
GeneMO
Well-known Member
- Location
- Pilot Grove, Mo.
To heck with the tractor! Thanks for your service. The other guys have posted all the tips you need. Be safe!
Gene
Gene
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
Nope just found it works well for all sorts of things
John M
Well-known Member
- Location
- Nunyafn business
1. Thanks for your service!
2. Everyone else has pretty much answered your question.
3. Why are you running Hytran in the transmission?
2. Everyone else has pretty much answered your question.
3. Why are you running Hytran in the transmission?
Good luck John. His shed is ground floor and a working tractor, varmits could be a problem. He is a fireman and in reserves and was called up back in spring and was in the south till a leave before heading overseas. Sold the mower & the plows John, still have the rake to get ready for sale. Lester
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
You guys are killing me here.
Park it and come back next year. Like what has been done for the last half a decade or longer.
or
Maybe some hermetically sealed bunker?
Take it with you and start it daily?
Hire a tractor extended care professional to stay with it.
Park it and come back next year. Like what has been done for the last half a decade or longer.
or
Maybe some hermetically sealed bunker?
Take it with you and start it daily?
Hire a tractor extended care professional to stay with it.
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