No running lights

Anonymous-0 · Jul 25, 2009

I just got a 1999 Ford F-150. Blinkers work, brake lights work, headlights Hi/Low work. It has no dash, parking or taillights working. All the fuses check out o.k. Don't see any relays, it's driving me a little nuts. Anybody have any idea's?

Offandgone · Jul 25, 2009

Check to be sure it is getting power out of the light switch. Sounds like the switch may be bad.
Frank

cadet trooper · Jul 25, 2009

Do you have an XLT? If so does your power mirrors work? I have a Haynes schematic in front of me that's why I'm asking. If you like I can try to scan it and send it to you just drop me an e-mail cause I struggle with trying to post it on YT my e-mail's open.CT

Anonymous-0 · Jul 25, 2009

IS THERE A FUSE BOX UNDER THE DASH, AND ANOTHER ONE IN ENGINE COMPARTMENT? I THINK THERE ARE REAYS AND FUSES IN THE BOX UNDER THE HOOD FOR TAIL LAMPS.MARK

Anonymous-0 · Jul 25, 2009

Older Ford products [late '80's/early '90's] had chronic problems with burning up either the headlight switch or the connector. Sold a lot of both when I worked at the dealership, but I don't know if that carried over to the '97-up F-150's. [From the problems as you describe 'em, I'm betting it's the switch.]

The best tools you can have at this point are a wiring diagram and a circuit tester [and not that AutoZoo junk,but something decent]. Then start at one end of the circuit and work your way to the fault. Time consuming, but this is why electrical work costs so much when you have a shop do it.

If the fuses are not blown, turn the light switch to the "park" posision and see whether you have current to the fuse [both sides of the fues; sometimes they're blown and still look OK]. If you have current at the fuse, you work toward the light; if not, you work toward the switch.

cadet trooper · Jul 25, 2009

Since the 97 and up F-150 you have the remote mirror turn signal the RAP security control etc. and on and on and could very well be the multifunction switch but what if it isn't? now you've spent $$$ and that still doesn't fix it now what's next? Troubleshooting is the difficult problem the fix is easy. The Schematic seperates the possibilities of two related things.

Anonymous-0 · Jul 25, 2009

Did you even read my post?

Did I not say to start with a wiring diagram and a circuit tester? [I believe I did.] I don't believe I said anything about haphazardly swapping parts until you "maybe" stumble onto the cause of the problem.

Too many shade-tree mechanics do just that, slinging parts at a problem until something fixes it [and oftentimes they don't know what]...or until they give up and finally send it out to someone for a proper diagnosis.

RusselAZ · Jul 25, 2009

Fuse 6 in the underhood battery junction box is for the tail and dash.

If you have power on both sides of it then the headlight switch is likely bad.

Likely it is bad because this truck has been towing a trailer with a lot of light bulbs on it. The same fuse feeds the trailer tow outlet

Sean Feeney · Jul 25, 2009

Thanks for all the reply's guys. No power mirrors Number 6 under the hood has power both sides.
I thought it may have been a bad switch but not sure, the last one I put in for my 87 f-250 was around $15 this thing is around $125. I'll pull the switch tomorrow and see if it has power coming out. Thanks to all again.
Sean

No running lights

Anonymous-0

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Offandgone

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cadet trooper

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Anonymous-0

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Anonymous-0

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cadet trooper

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Anonymous-0

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RusselAZ

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Sean Feeney

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