baler problems

rjpreuss

New User
New Holland 310 baler question. Bales are not square. Longer on left than right (as you look at the bakc of baler. Tried adjusting tensioners. Tried adjusting finger stroke (further into bale chamber and away from). Adjusted back plate of bale pickup chamber (behind fingers). Nothing works. It does appear string is longer on the left side as well. HELP!!!!!
 
Need bigger windrow? Drive faster? Have you put a scale on both twine to check tension? Are both even?. How many strokes per bale?. Is it a banana bale or just more hay on one side?....James
 
A common problem. Nothing to do with strings or their tension. Its all in the feeding. But Make sure the hay knifes are sharp and as close as you can get them. That can cause it too.
 
had the same thing happen on my deere 338 after a chain for the chamber feeding fork broke, got it hooked up again and hay wasn't getting far enough into the chamber and bales were long on one side. fooled around with it one day and finally got it timed just right. hope that helps
 
i also have a 310 baler. and i have noticed that the bigger the windrow the better.if i have a nice large windrow and keep craming hay down its throat it makes a nice square tight bale.but if i get into a skinny/scrawny windrow it does exactly what you are describing.hope this works.
 
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Case made restrictor lugs to bolt to the side of the chamber to add tension to hold the material from moving to fast down one side, don"t know if your mfgr does the same. They were just wedge shaped bars that bolted in the chamber from top to bottom to add tension to the long side of the bale. String tension is important to proper knotter operation only. mEl
 
I have been running some pretty heavy windrows. Pushing the baler to the limits without shearing flywheel bolts (knives are sharp and set up close). I have not scales the twine, but after a tie i check tension (after a couple of plunges takes the knot off of the bill hook) and there is a very noticeable difference in twine length. It is hard to determine if there is just more hay on the one side, and yes, the bales become banana shaped. Thanks for any help you can give me!
 
Is it possible to just add tension to one side (or are you talking about the crank tensioners on top of the bale chute where the bale is ejected?
 
I'm not sure where the twine tensioners are on that baler but I'd guess that tehy're somewhere around where the twine leaves the twine can.
Add tension to the string of the long side.
It may take it out of 'spec', but to my way of thinking, if it straightens the bale out, so be it.
I'm only working with an old Ford baler but it definitely makes a difference.

ALso check the hay dogs as others have suggested, and you may want to adjust the penetration of the packer system so that it doesn't push as much hay to the left side of the bale... but in every dealing I've ever had with a square baler it's near impossible to get enough hay over to the left. They usually make the left side soft... which is why I'm guessing that yours has a twine tension issue when the left side is long.
I'd not be scared to tension it until it straightens out so long as it doesn't start dropping knots...

Rod
 
There's no way of adjusting the twine individually. I just think it's unusual the twine length seems to be so much longer right after a tie. And that happens to be the side my bales go long. Thanks for the reply. I sure do appreciate the help offered here.
 
There has to be some method of adjusting twine tension. I'm not familiar enough with that baler to tell you where the adjutment plate is located, but ti has to be there somewhere. Your operators manual should show where it is...

The length of the string is nothing more than a reflection of how much pull the hay places on the string. You tighten the string to pull the bale square, thus the string gets shorter... or if it's too short you loosen the tension so the hay can draw more string out.
Has to be an adjustment somewhere.

Rod
 

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