farmall M stuck motor

a friend has a farmall with a stuck engine, he's been putting oil and brake fluid into the cylinders but it is refusing to budge, any thoughts.....

might try 50/50 diesel fuel and automatic transmission fluid in the cylinders, let them sit, sometimes several days. hopefully it will help.

frank

I also like ATF for the fluid.
Have a charged up battery, Put a crank on the crank snout with a 100# weight on it, and bump the starter every time you go past it. (do not hold it on start, just bump the switch to shock load the crank a little). JimN

PB Blaster.

My success in freeing stuck motors has been with soaking with solvents and applying pressure both forward (like with the crank) and then backwards.
I got a pipe wrench on the crank pulley and every so often jumped on the wrench. Patience helps, too.
John

Over on the unofficial allis board someone posted the lab test results of all the different magic potions to unstuck bolts. The best was a 50/50 mixture of actone and ATF.

but you are talking Farmall so just drop it off over here and get an Oliver 88 ^D

ohiojim, When ya'll are ready to stop fooling around with this project and get it unstuck. follow these simple instruction......
Remove all tinwork, fuel tank, Battery, intake/exhaust/ carb assembly, Headamd all parts pretaining to the head.
Next Remove pan, oil pump,
Number all rodcaps, and remove
NOW roll tractor outside, remove all combustiables from immediate area.
Most engines are stuck on 1 or maybe 2 cylinders not all as a rule. Start with the cylinder with the most volume.....
1 at a time, fill with Diesel add a splash of gasoline set it on fire, Use any and all safety precautions....let the fire burn itself out drive the piston out from the bottom comming out the top.
Do the cylinder with the 2nd most volume, set it on fire and drive it from the bottom. Then 3 then 4.
Now as the volume decreases so will the amt of fuel to burn, and time for the cylinder to get hot and expand, pop the rust, so the piston can be driven out, 2 or 3 or 4 or 5, etc, etc time may be needed to get the piston and cylinder hot enough to pop the rust. Drinking coffee inbetween times helps pass the time I know of many many guys who have gotten and engine apart in 1 afternoon, 2 to 3 hrs or so.
This method will allows you to salvage your pistons if possible and sometimes the cylinders too. Hope this helps.
Later,
John A.

ATF or nothing. If it does not pop free with ATF it will not pop free unless you take it apart no matter what

have you thought of pulling the head , it takes less than 1 hr.

ATF, used it on a Farmall A back in 1975. Hal

I still had to tear the engine down completely to clean the block. I then installed a new sleeve kit. Hal

I worked for a guy that got a G6 MM that was stuck loose by hooking the heater hoses from an S-10 up to the tractor engine and let the S-10 idle for the better part of a day. The hot coolant circulating was enough to break it loose in this case.

I would have to say that no matter what potion you use the method you use to turn the engine is also important. I have better luck trying to move the crank in both directions rather than one direction only. If you get some motion even if you cannot detect it that small running start helps. Get somethng on the crank and work it back and forth even if there is no detectable motion keep at it. Once you get motion of any kind wipe down the cylinder walls and oil them. Best of luck. Everyone seems to have their own best method.

Hey sounded crazy I had one stuck with piece of starter drive. Took head off look like just shut it off. Pulled belly pump, piece fell out, Took to old machanic in town said piece of starter drive. Engine turned after piece fell out.

Knock the porclin off a spark plug. Drill and tap for grease zerk. Fill grease gun with favorite penatrant and pump till you bend the handle.