Weeds to lawn???

550Doug

Member
Location
Southern Ontario
I have a 2 acre section that is currently weeds, orchards grass with smatterings of various small 2 ft shrubs and trees, plus a few!!! stones. I want to sow a lawn seed in September, so my plan of attack is to bushhog the area, plow the soil to get roots exposed and dried, then rototill and prepare for seed. However, on second thought, I'm wondering about the roots not being killed off.
Maybe I should spray (roundup) after bushhogging?
Has anyone had experience with something similar?
Thanks
 

Might need to kill trees with remedy first. Don't think it's necessary to Round up grass if you are going to till it.

KEH
 

Might need to kill trees with remedy first. Don't think it's necessary to Round up grass if you are going to till it.

KEH
 
You've already got orchard grass, so if you knock the weeds down with 2,4d, and then just start keeping the area mowed, that orchard grass will soon take over and then you'll have your lawn with a minimum amount of work or expense.

The small trees and shrubs can probably be pulled out.
 
Might depend on the kind of grass/weeds in addition to orchard grass. Crab and quack is hard to get rid of. I think I'd Round Up just to be on the safe side. I sprayed a small field last fall and this spring still had grass growing. Just my thoughts. I'm no expert.

Larry in Michigan
 
It's been my experience that it's not effective to spray after mowing. You have to have enough foliage to soak up enough herbicide to be effective. It's also been my experience that harrowing just exposes otherwise dormant weed and grass seeds. I've had the best results spraying with a 5% glyphosate solution and let it all die back then mow and burn. YMMV.

Ichabod
 
I planted a 2 acre yard 5 years ago. It was completely crab grass and brush. Spray the roundup first! Then mow after it has taken effect. I know it is hard to get good coverage with the sprayer in tall grass and brush because most yard sprayers have a low boom. I had to raise mine up. I cultivated and disced afterwards. Grass planted in the fall works great. I put down 4lbs per 1000 sq ft of grass seed. I also put down a couple 5 gallon pails of wheat for some cover crop. Then put a light cover of straw over the whole thing. When the grass emerges it will keep the straw in place (If it does not blow away before them). I have a very nice yard now, maintain most weed issues with 2-4 D. Good Luck.
 
I vote with RustyFarmall. Have "reclaimed" lots of areas with mixed grass and weeds by just mowing- grass will come back, most weeds will not, if mowed and not allowed to go to seed. Dandelions will not be deterred, but you'll get them anyhow, regardless of what you do. Tilling will just bring up more weed seeds. You could spray with 2-4D first, to get a head start on the weeds. If the shrubs are small enough to mow, they'll go away, too.
 
35 years ago we had a large area to do. We just kept it mowed and let nature work. The grass won out finally. Plus, when it's cut it is all green and the same height and don't look so bad.
 
> We just kept it mowed and let nature work.

I second that. I guess it depends on what type of grass grows in your area though. Around here, a type of turf grass takes over everything that is mowed (even hay fields unfortunately). We call it wiregrass, but I don't know the real name.

I wouldn't waste time and money spraying, keep it mowed and whatever can't take the mowing dies. You're left with turf eventually. Maybe frost seed some grass seed if nothing grows native.
 

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