Remote start in Dodge Grand Caravan

JDemaris

Well-known Member
I've had a 98 Dodge Grand Caravan AWD for a few years. When I bought it I was told it has remote start - which I've never cared about or tried to use. Battery goes dead in a month in this van if it sits without being used. So, I added a battery cut-off switch that works fine. I'm starting to get sick of popping the hood open all the time, to put the switch "on" or "off" when I want to use this thing. I have to since this van is parked most of the time (just a spare vehicle).

I suspect the battery draw is being caused by the remote start setup - but I have no idea where it is. This van is pretty fancy and jammed with accessories. I've looked around and haven't seen anything that looks like a remote-start module. Anybody got any idea where it might be mounted?
 
A month is about all you can let one of the newer cars that are loaded set with or without remote start. If you have it close you can use the remote start and it will run 15 minutes or what ever it is programed for and then shut itself off if you do not drive it. I would do that every two weeks.
Frank
 
had a '98 Dodge Ram 1500 w/ no remore start as a spare vehicle -
it too would only last about a month without killing the battery - I am guessing remote start is not your problem - all newer vehicles use too much electricity with being started -
I presently have a Jeep Liberty - as soon as u put the keys in the blue LED odometer lights up - if u leave the keys in the vehice for a couple days - even being in the off position the battery is dead - take them out it is fine.
 
Newer cars or semis go dead some in a week or so the computer sucks away all the voltage Volvo semi with 3 1200 cca batterys dead in 10 days .
 
What most everyone is trying to say is the PCM and other modules like the BCM, radio, etc all consume a small amount of power from the battery to maintain memory. Your best defense against a dead battery would be getting a battery maintainer like the "Battery Tender" if the vehicle sits in a garage. If it sits outside, there are solar panels that plug in to the lighter and sit on the dash that will keep the battery up.
A month of non use is about right to run a good battery down.
 
Jde,
Have to agree with the others. About a month is actually pretty good for newer cars this days. I have a Dodge pickup that will last a week.

Battery tender might do the ticket.

Not mentioned yet is once the computer loses it's memory it will take a while for it to "learn" the correct settings for the motor. Varies from PCM to PCM but I believe that some can take up to 100 miles to relearn. Meaning bad gas mileage or rough times on the motor if you only took it on short trips say once a month. Something to consider.
 
Thanks for the replies. I wasn't aware they actually design these things with that much power-draw when parked. Most of my cars and trucks are older have no such problems. Only other "newer" vehicles I have are a 1999 Kia Sportage LX (that the faciest level). It can sit all winter and not go dead. Same with our 95 Subaru, 95 Geo Tracker, or any of my 90s diesel trucks. Must be the electronics are different in the Dodge Van? It draws .13 (13/10ths) of an amp all the time.
If all the newer stuff is designed to go dead while sitting - it just gives me more reason never to buy new.
 
We always put the MD switch in the fire trucks somewhere on the floor handy the door so it's easy to see and easy to reach from the seat. It's only a bit more cable to run...

Other than that I think I'd stick an ohm meter between the battery cables and start pulling fuses until the load goes away. Might not be what you think...

Rod
 
Unhook both cables from the battery, then use your battery charger as the power source and see how many amps the it draws.

There are only a couple of things that are wired and stay hot all the time such as the radio-clock, power distribution box and the alternator. Unhook one of them at a time and whatch your battery charger to see when the draw stops. This test has helped me many a time. No ohm meter or test light is needed when done this way.

You could use a starter relay in place of the cutoff switch then all you would have to do is run a couple of wires (one being fused of course) to a switch inside. Much easer than running the big cables inside.
 

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