wiring an alternator

PLEASE HELP!! I HAVE A FARMALL 460 AND NEED HELP WITH HOW TO WIRE IN AN ALTERNATOR.OLD GENERATOR QUIT WORKING AND WAS CHEAPER TO CONVERT OVER. THANKS FOR ANY HELP GUYS!!!!

real easy to do, stud on back of alternator goes to +battery, heavy wire on 2wire plug connect to stud on back of alternator, small wire on 2wire plug is hooked to keyed switch only needs power when key is in on position to excite windings, if this wire is live when key is off alternator will back feed and drain battery

Here's a diagram for basic generator to alternator conversion. Radio Shack 276-1661 is a good diode with heavy leads. Diode prevents feedback when switch is turned off. Without it (some use an idiot light) tractor can keep running when switch is turned off.
Generator to Alternator conversion

Go on ebay and get a "One Wire Alternator" you won't regret it. If you don't do that go back to the original generator. They work fine!

Did you have your generator checked out to make sure it was bad? If not it could be the voltage regulator which would be cheaper to replace than to install the alternator.

If your generator was working fine for the past few years and keeping your battery charged I would put a generator back on it. Three bolts and two wires and you're done.

Heres how I wire a GM 10SI 3 Wire Alternator and remember, it requires NEGATIVE GROUND !!!!!!!

The big rear main alternator output terminal goes to and splices into the wire that used to be connected to the BAT terminal on the Voltage Regulator or Cutout Relay, but basically, the alternator output wires to the Load (NOT battery/starter) side of the ammeter which takes place if you use the wire that used to connect to to the BAT terminal on the Voltage Regulator.. HOWEVER if that wire wasnt already upgraded, when I convert from a Genny to an Alternator, I replace that wire with a 10 Gauge and it runs from the alternators main output up to the LOAD (NOT to battery/starter) side of the ammeter. I also replace/use 10 Gauge from the ammeters other SUPPLY terminal to the battery/starter.

The alternators (if a GM 10 SI) little side number 2 Voltage Sense Terminal gets connected (use a short 14 jumper wire) right up to and with the big main output terminal mentioned above.

For the GM 10 SI's little No. 1 side Excitation Terminal, run a 16 or so gauge wire from the ignition switches IGN (which is hot ONLY when ignition is turned on) output terminal ORRRRRR the coils high input (NOT to distributor) terminal, and in series with it place a 10 ohm to 47 ohm 5 watt current limiting protection resistor or else use a small incandescent idiot light. Then in the rare event (likely dont even need a diode if the resistor which I prefer is used) the tractor continues to run cuz of alternator backfeed when the ignition is switched OFF, I add in series a 5 amp 50 PIV minimum Diode. The diode must be wired with negative cathode end to the alternator and positive anode end to the switch. Again, the ratings are not that exact but about any diode over a few amps and 50 volts or so works.

Dont forget to change the battery to negative ground (if not already neg ground) and the coil needs to be wired so the negative goes to ground via the distributor points and the positive gets power from the ignition switch and you have to reverse ammeter leads also if you’re just now changing polarities cuz if its wrong it reads bass ackwards.

Good luck Ol John T in Indiana

I DID GET A 1 WIRE ALTERNATOR BUT DON"T KNOW HOW TO DO AWAY WITH OLD VOLTAGE REGULATOR AND MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IS WIRED PROPERLY AND WORKING LIKE IT IS SUPPOSE TO. THANK YOU!

These diagrams will do it. Three wire systems are best and duplicate the way they are used in the car. JimN
Bob Ms Superlative Wiring diagrams