drawbar for jubilee

Does anyone have a quick answer for me, looking for a drawbar for my jub and need to know the hole diameter for the 3pt. and what length I should get. Thanks in advance for any responses

The drawbar you want does not go through the three point hitch lower arms.
A drawbar bolts to the underside of the transmission case and stays in a fixed position. Few dead drivers that way.

if you pull with one of those threepoint drawbars your center of draft(i think its called that) point of draft is behind the axle.pull too heavy and you flip the tractor over backwards.not good for your health.

However, despite the naysayers below, perhaps you're just going to pull a wagon or trailer, or a pasture harrow, or a manure spreader, in which case the chances of a dramatic back-flip is extremely remote. You need a "Category 1" drawbar, from your local farm supply store.

Shaun; You can get a swinging drawbar assembly that bolts under the tractor and a hanger bracket that bolts around the pto shaft.

OR: you can get a cross drawbar that goes in between the lift arms. Then you will need 2 drawbar stays that go from the drawbar up to
where the top link fastns.Do not raise the 3ph with this drawbar fastened in.

We had one Ford(late model 2000) with the swinging drawbar assembly. On the rest of them we used the cross drawbar and the drawbar stays.
And Ya,dont pull from the top link bracket.

Be careful and have some fun.Hope I made myself clear.

steveormary

A breath of 'common' sense.........'though I suppose it's better to err on the side of caution, since for most our brethern, it seems a tractor is a hobby or a toy. I've pulled untold thousands of logs with a 3-point hitch drawbar and felt safer than I do driving down the highway. However, I've never pulled up a stump or a tree, as I hear of folks doing........

just a thought but on my jubilee i took a standard 11 hole drawbar for a cat 1 hitch, cut 1 peg off and it works perfectly in the under diffy brakets from the factory, ive been using it for 10 years and everything from a small single axle trailer to a tamden axle loeded with hay the jube couldnt move without the front wheels flappin in the breeze, never bent anything

I've been doing deadweight pulls for years with a ford 9n with a 3 point hitch drawbar with a clevis bolted in it and the front wheels don't even start to come off the ground on the ford. They don't even get light and the ford has pulled 205% on the deadweight pulls many times. The only tractors that look like they could flip over are the ones that the guys put all the weight on the back and they all have fixed drawbars that are supposed to be so good. 9n's are too light in the rear to get enough traction and they will spin out before the front comes up. You have more of a chance flipping over a vintage Deere with a center of gravity way up in the air and a narrow front end than you ever do on a jubilee or a 9n. My ford hugs the ground and ditches like a indy car compared to any of the old deeres or farmalls. THEY are by far the flipover hazard on any farm. All this BS about ford being flipover hazards is almost hard to sit and listen to. Look at the narrow overall width on some of the little utility tractors that they sell nowdays. They NEED a rollbar because you could tip one over getting on them! My friend sells new JD utility tractors and told me he wouldn't sell me one to mow the ditches I do because they would roll. He said, stick with the 9n,its much more stable on ditches.

I second that! get a swinging drawbar that bolts under the rear axle. This setup has the correct center of gravity. I used a 3 pt mounted drawbar and the tree I was dragging got snagged and I popped about a 5 ft. 'wheeley' just about sh!t my pants and now I preach about the safety values of the swinging drawbar.Yes Ford tractors do come up in the front end quite easily and sometimes unexpectly if using them with the wrong equiptment or method,but no worse-proballbly better than most others.