OT: 1990 Chevy 2500 4x4

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
My 90 Chevy with a 350 ci motor and a four speed manual transmission. Its got 99000 miles on it. About a month ago I was stopped at a red light when the truck died and would not start. Turned out to be the distributor, so i replaced it and everything was fine. Bout 2 days ago the same thing happened and the distributor was under warranty so I replaced it and everything was fine, untill today. I was driving again today and the truck died, much like it did when the disributor went bad. So when I got it home I tested the distributor it with my multimeter it tested ok. However the truck will not start. Fuel pump is ok. Cap and rotor are fairly new. Plugs are recent to. So what do I check now? Im really at a loss. Im also confused as to why it ate two distributors. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Dave2's got your advice. A (cold) bad coil will let an engine start and run and then short out when it gets hot.
 
My truck is equipped with two coils, one on the distributor (pickup coil)and it was replaced with the distributor. And also another one that is not on the distributor, it is original. How do I check to see if it is the coil?
 
(quoted from post at 21:57:50 04/28/09) My truck is equipped with two coils, one on the distributor (pickup coil)and it was replaced with the distributor. And also another one that is not on the distributor, it is original. How do I check to see if it is the coil?

The way I "tested" mine was compare the hourly rate for headscratching then replacing the part to the price of a new coil (rock auto.com is usually cheap) and came up with the correct diagnosis. The coil I'm talking about is the one that is outside the dist.

Good Luck,


Dave
 
I'm confused. Your engine should have electronic ignition. How are you determining that the distributor is good or bad using a multimeter?
 
Yup,
BTDT Chevy coils get hot and quit. Been doing that since back in the days when they were bolted to the side of the block (old straight 6 cyl)
 
Pull the air cleaner off and see if you have a fuel spray pattern at both injectors while cranking engine.

Next,pull the secondary coil(mounted outside dist)wire off.Using caution, hold it away from coil tower about 1/2" and see if spark jumps the gap while cranking engine.

Need to know this info first.
 
You can pull the distributor out and pull the plug out of the module on the distributor. Take your multimeter and set it to ohms. On that plug there are two ports, positive and negative. Thats were you test at.
 
It is also possible that the fuel pump (located in the tank) could be bad.

You can do a simple and quick test to see if it is fuel or ignition by simply spraying a little ether or carburetor cleaner in the intake and seeing if it cranks up. If it starts and immediately dies due to using up the burst of ether, then it is probably the fuel pump.
 
those engines need a lot of spark to work one I worked on just needed a coil wire so if your wires are old could need to be replaced
 
New Question: I think the module on my distributor is burning out. Does anyone know how to check this, and what would be causing it to burn out like this. I replaced the distributor twice in a month and now Im wondering if it is the module burning up and why.
 

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