8 N Year???

We just bought an old 8N and were trieng to figure out what year it might be. One thing i"ve noticed is that it doesnt have the diamond plate foot boards, mine just has pegs. Does that narrow it down any? I know nothing about tractors so look over me please. Thanks

Why would you purchase a "N" series Ford?

Well it runs fine, looks good, and it was $1000 bucks. Good enough for me.

You may have a 9 or 2 N as these had the pegs. Could have a mutt also. See if this site helps to narrow it down. David.............



http://home.att.net/~jmsmith45/

The fact that it has pegs instead of foot boards does narrow it down because that means it is most likely not a 8N.
More likely to be a 9N or 2N.
Look at the site listed below to find out what you really have.
Model Identification

Maybe somebody took them off mine, shoot I dont know. Looks just like the 8N's on here. Might run some numbers. Just got it today. Anyway, appreciate the help fellas. Have a good one.

Your plans with it?

the serial number is hand stamped on a 1 x 4 flat plate on the left side of the engine twards the rear, but 8,2,and 9 engines all interchange so thats not total assurance the easiest way to tell is 8n, has 4 foward speeds , 9 and 2 n has 3, 9 and 2 n also has large bolt patern wheels , the front wheel bolt pattern reminds you of old vw's, the 8n has a smaller 6 bolt pattern, what does you tractor have for a trans and wheels?

Pretty simple to figure out if it is an 8N. Does it have a 4 speed tranny and a flay head engine?? If it is a 3 speed then it is most likely a 9N or 2N if it has a 4 speed then it is an 8N
Hobby farm

Hopefully he will run over you with it.

That wouldn't be hard to do, govern the design and typical condition of the brakes in many 9N/2N/8N/s!

...He hasn't talked to the supreme being/all-knowing expert on the subject of EVERYTHING (you).

MAybe he doesn't fall for the ridiculous nonsense you keep spouting .....

I suppose if this "N" Ford was equipped with the optional "magnet motor". It would be ok then.

If you crawl underneath there will be a date stamped into the hydraulic pump cover. This is the manufacture date of the pump,if the pump hasn't been changed this will put you in the ballpark. Knowing the date is not really useful on these N's except to satisfy your curiosity. There were not enough model variations to worry about. Pegs does pretty much put it as a 9n or 2n though.

we could power a tractor with BS, anger, and negative personality traits, you could corner the market in cheap farm power.

Go over to the 8/9N board. There's a whole crowd over there that wouldn't "soil" themselves by coming over here. Ask Dell for eight ways to convert an N to electronic ignition (they all work). That in my humble opinion would be one way (actually 8 ways) to fix a myriad of carburetor problems. Ask for "50 tips for Ford N owners". Believe me, you'll be needing that list. There is no doubt in my mind that those little tractors will be running 100 years from now with their owners still wrestling with the "front square can ignition coil", the "weaksister ignition switch", the "infamous ballast resistor", etc. The N board is the most entertaining board. I've been lurking there for years but am considered an "outsider" because I've never owned an N and never intend to, but after you've been thoroughly indoctrinated over there but are still having problems, give me a shout. I'll tell you the secret trick to keep the tar in the front square can ignition coil from melting causing the little critter to shut down for about 30 miutes to an hour before you can get it started again. By the way, you have a 9N or 2N. Soooo... that means you have the front mounted square can ignition coil.

There are a few major differences between 9/2/8N. 9/2 are three speeds forward. No other options in the transmission. The steering gear is bevel gears, slight rock lumps kick the steering wheel freely, the left and right steering shafts leave the steering gear IN line with each other.

8N is four speeds foward. No other transmission options. Steering gear is a combination of a ball worm, a rack, and a pair of gears. It doesn't kick nearly so hard when a front wheel encounters and obstacle like a bit of gravel or a clod. The left and right shafts are NOT in line, one is higher than the other.

All 9/2/8N came with a front distributor except the last production year (that's what my I&T manual said. I don't have it or the toy 8N anymore) which had a side distributor. Most all the engine parts before the side distributor engine interchange including complete engines. The front distributor is a real pain to work on, though it saves a gear drive and was taken from the 30s vintage Ford V-8. Drivers of those cars also tended to run until the points were in very bad shape and only adjust and clean them when the engine would hardly run.

It is possible for a tractor to have been assembled from mixed vintage parts.

The transmission (and the wheel bolt centers) is the most distinctive difference followed by the steering gear. If its bevel gear, it can break your arms in a plowed field and thats definitely NOT an 8N.

Even at $1k, its a toy for doing real work. I had one, tried it for snow moving with a blade. I found a buyer and was quite happy to see it go.

Gerald J.

Sounds like somebody's 8N embarrassed granpappys JD B.

I'm gonna drop an engine from a puick gnx in my 8N and head to the NTPA.

Wouldn't be fair to compare a 2n or 9N to a B. The little old H over matches those fords.
The 50 with live pto, live hydraulics, rockshaft system which an upper link can be added to no problem. Will drag an 8N around like a toy. Do more work and be safer.

So you are all sore that the magnetic motor stocks and magnetic fuel line ionizers you purchased are worthless?
You won't get any sympathy here either for pto shafts without shields. Or for those trying to jump tractors onto trailers without a proper loading ramp.