Need advice on buying a tractor

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I'm looking for a good old tractor with a front end loader and PTO that I can run a tiller or brush hog with. I really don't know to much about the vintage tractors so I would appreciate any advice on which mfg/models to look for and which ones to stay away from. I want to make sure that parts are still available for whatever I buy. Thanks for your help!

Cappy
 
This question has raised the difference of opinion among the users of this site.
Depending on yourself, capabilities,resources and use. Anything from a broken down 2N to something brand new off the dealers lot.
How deep are your pockets, how much of a repair shop do you have? How much of the time do you want to spend tinkering and repairing? What are the three closest dealers to you? Can you claim depreciation on your taxes?
As for bushhogging. A lot of new rural land owners want to turn the place into a lawn in mid spring. Right about the time the tall grass is a home to young animals. Then the new owners wonder where all the animals went. The animals that were not chopped to bits have left because their habitat is gone.
 
Suggest it being gas rather than diesel.
With a loader , WIDE front end.
Parts availability , a Ford or John Deere that is no older than 1985.
Go to a dealer , who will most likely guarentee the unit for a period of time.
Don't buy from a "friend" .
Take some one with you who has at least some knowledge about tractors.
Most important YOU make the final decision. lj
 
A John Deere 2030(nothing older that a 30 series in a utility model) would be my first choice if you can find one that has not been abused. That is what you will often find with a loader tractor, especially one that came off a dairy farm.
 
I like Massey-Ferguson however, If you are not familiar with older tractors, I would suggest going to look at a few and driving them before buying. If you know anyone that is knowledgeable about tractors they can be a great resource to help you find what you are looking for.
 
If you want to run a tiller or bush hog then your obviously going to want something that has a three point hitch.

Looking your going to find alot of Fords out there. I would recommend staying away from the 2N/9N's and probably 8N's as well. In short it it is older than 1960 I would think real hard about it. There is nothing wrong with these tractors other than most lack a live PTO and when equipped with a front loader they require alot more steering effort.

Look for the 1962 and later Ford utilities with power steering. Be selective even with these models as some don't have "live power".

In short, I recommend a tractor equipped with power steering and live P.T.O. As for brand, pick which ever color is supported in your area and you could get parts for. With the age of most vintage tractors now if they were truly lemons they've already been scrapped.
 
Very few old farm tractors have a slow enough first gear for a tiller. Anything faster than 1.5 mph will not do a very good job, 1 mph is best.
 
Try to find a Massey Ferguson 135. Bulletproof, 3 cyl Perkins diesel sips fuel, 12 speeds (that should give you one that's slow enough to roto-till). If it doesn't have a loader on it and you have to buy one you'll probably have to have a front mounted pump put on but that's done everyday. They're low slung-good for getting under trees and not tippy. Nor are they known for back flips. One of the best tractors ever built for what you have in mind.
 
A person I know runs his 60" tiller with a Fordson Major diesel. It seems to be very slow in low gears.I personally would not want it for a loader tractor.I would look for a Ford dedicated loader tractor ,ones with yellow paint are super loaders.Models,take your pick.I had a D15 AC/w/AC Loader,wide bucket,but they are rather small,and a Ford 2000 w/Henderson Loader.Both were good loading machines.The commercial line of Ford loader machines were just becoming available in those days of the past.
 
I'm partial to the post 1965 Fords.
But what ever you buy make sure it has factory 3 point hitch. There are work arounds for most options like live pto, Power steering etc. But a 3 point hitch will increase the things you can do with your tractor.
I would make that your one "Must Have" option.
 
Dearly like the ones running and not dripping antifreeze. Time three the original cost when not running a fair rule of thumb to follow. Now if you enjoy bring one back from the bone pile go for it!

Live PTO and PS sure is nice.
 
Brother has an Oliver 550 he just got done fixing up. Independant PTO, 3 pt., loader, and about 45 HP. Would be a good model to look for, as well as a Super 55. It's slightly older, but basically the same and lots of parts interchange.

We have a Massey Ferguson 165. About the same, except it has live PTO instead of independant. It runs through the clutch pedal yet, but it's a 2 stage clutch. Ours also has power
steering, which is very nice to have.

Either model would be a good choice, and both have pretty good parts availability. I think the 165, if it were fixed up to the extent that my brother's 550 is, with new paint, it'd be a REALLY sharp tractor. Those 100 series Massey's, in my mind, are one of the sharpest looking tractors out there when painted correctly.

Good paint isn't needed, just a bonus. JUst don't fall for a crappy paint job and the guy says it's fully restored. Chances are the engine hasn't been touched and will need to be overhauled soon.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
Something with.

Live pto, high volume hydraulics, high pressure hydraulics,live hydraulics and a proper fixed drawbar. Not some rinky twinky thing stuck between the lower links of the three point hitch.Maybe even diesel power. Factory 12V alternator and diff lock
Hydrostatic trans so amateurs are not going to smoke the clutch or break gears. M4WD, hydraulics with remotes. Three point hitch A rops,seat belt sealed beam lights for and aft, warning lights etc.
 
With a tiller always make sure it is lifted out of the ground when tuning the PTO on or off so you don't break the PTO shaft or something else. According to a pamphlet I used to have, on getting the most out of your Howard Rotovator, it said that you should try to go in a higher gear and not to always have the rear shield all the way down depending on what you're doing. A course tilth is better than a really fine tilth. If you're tilling sod or something hard you might need to go really slow and/or make a second pass, but if it is just dirt you should be able to go a little faster if you have the tiller sized properly for the tractor. MF 100 series are pretty bullit proof tractors but have someone knowledgeable look over any tractor you're considering. Popular models are usually better for parts and service availability. Dave
 
I'll second everything buickanddeere said in his posts. Plus, how big a tiller, mower, and loader do you want to use? For me, I think something in the 70-90 hp range that can use a full sized loader, run a 15 foot mower, and a 6 foot tiller. But you may be thinking a 5 foot mower and 4 foot loader bucket. Makes a lot of difference. Any of the x6xx series Fords from a 3600 to a 7610 should meet you requirements though, just substitute which size you need for the job.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top