Allis WC missing on #1 #2 cylinder (dead or nearly dead

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I have a WC with a problem of not running of numbers 3 and 4 cylinders.[NEAREST RADIATOR] Before working on the tractor it was running on all 4. After removing the Intake/Exhanust manifold to re-install new intake and exhaust gaskets. I kept the carb in place and just unhooked the governor lever. Put it back together and got the above mentioned problem.
I started it once and forgot to hook the governor up. It started up with full speed in mind. So after a couple seconds, I shut it off and connected it. Since then...
The carb I then took off and cleaned... Looked ok. There is no heat generated from no 3 & 4 when you touch the exhaust manifold when running. The new wires and spark plugs are sparking and timed in correct order. Question is, given the above scenario, could there be a break in the head gasket between No 3 & 4 So's to give the impression it's carb trouble for cylinders 3 & 4???, Cylinders 1 & 2 run great like a JD Popper !!!

Any input would be greatly appreciated....
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I would guess you could have a couple of bent valves. One in each of the front cylinders. Mind you I could easily be wrong, but that happened when the governor broke in my D-19 and when the motor raced it bent a valve.

Just a thought.
Iowa Bob
 
I don't know much about an AC, but #1 is nearest the radiator followed by 2, 3,and 4 being nearest the seat. Someone else will have to tell you the firing order and which direction the disributor rotates.
 
hows your mag or distributor?? Id check the points and make sure the cap is clean. A compression test would help
 
Or, better yet, what is your fireing order??

On my B and im pretty sure on the WC, the correct firing order is 1,2,4,3 not 1234. if it is 1234 instead, that is likely your problem. You'll have to pull your distributor/mag cap off to see which way the rotor turns. Good luck!!
 
From what your saying you have the firing order messed up. #1 cylinder is the one up front by the radiator and #4 is back by the gas tank so your very likely to have the plug wires on wrong. Firing order is 1,2,4,3 starting with the cylinder closes to the radiator and working back
Hobby farm
 
It can't be timed in the right order because #1 is closest to the radiator. Firing order is 1-2-4-3 in a clockwise rotation looking at the cap from the rear (rear of tractor) All references to front and rear, left and right are as you would sit on the operator seat facing in the direction of travel.
 
I vote for compression test and possible valve train damage. Are you getting fuel to the cylinders that aren't firing?
 
The guys who say the plug leads are wrong are probably correct. The engine is always numbered from the camshaft drive end. The cam is the 'brain' of the engine. All timing is from the end of the cam.

You made a simple change so probably a simple error. Kiss principle applies.

RAB
 
I had an valve stick open on a Ford 4 cylinder that caused a problem similar to what you describe. Front two cylinder worked fine, back two didn't work. Once the valve was unstuck engine ran just fine. Hope this helps!
 
I would look for a vacum leak since they may share the same intake from the manifold and that's the only thing you had off. With it running spray a little wd40 or starting fluid toward the intake that feeds the cylinders and see if the two cylinders hit then. If they do you have a vacum leak. Don't spray too much either and make sure the engine is cold and not hot when you do this. You don't want a fire.
 
(quoted from post at 15:22:16 03/09/09) ............. The engine is always numbered from the camshaft drive end. The cam is the 'brain' of the engine. All timing is from the end of the cam. ................. RAB

I realize that it is not a tractor but I have a Renault engine that has the timing gears on the end with #4 and the flywheel end is #1. This is in a rear engine car so the #1 cylinder is toward the front of the car and # 4 is toward the rear.
 
Should be wired like this with No1 near the radiator. Hal
firingorderhs8.jpg
 
Hal,
That's a great picture, but over the years that mag may have been removed many times. I worked on tractors with #1 wire in every hole and they ran fine
 
Originally,
I did switch the wires between these two cylinders and it made no difference. Tested it by grouding the removed spark plug and it snapped consistently so it is correctly firing in it's present condition but theres no explosion inside the cylinder walls. So this indicates that gas doesn't seem to get there. The plugs remain bascially dry. At Full Choke it will bring life to those two cylinders for about 50 - 70 %. Thats a tuff way to run a tractor.....

THis WC has a coil system & is with/out a Magneto.

Addressing the first problem; I will re-wire it accordingly as #1 piston is nearest the radiator.

The rotor travels in a clock wise direction and will time it to the cap #1,2,4,3,

Perhaps by taking off the Manifold again and repostioning it may make a difference.

I'll will make these corrections today.
Thanks.
 

The problem was that the manifold wasn"t seated on correctly. The orginal studs were applied back on w/out re-chasing the threads. When tightened on the studs appearred tight but it didn"t press the manifold against the engine block as it should. Visually you couldn"t tell. So I took the studs out and chased both sides of the threads for block-side and nut-side. Added an extra washer just to make sure to take up extra space. It started up and ran on all 4 as it should. , Then I re-wired and corrected the firing order the way it was suggested and should be. Thank you all.
 

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