New Idea manure spreader question

Mathias NY

Well-known Member
I am considering renovating an old New Idea manure spreader that I have in the hedge. It's an old 12a or 14a (I'm not sure which). All the wood needs to be replaced, but mechanically it looks complete and should be servicable.

Can I use regular 1" thick pine boards or does it need something harder? I plan to actually use it when I am done, so I would like it hold up.

Also, I've read that Oliver green is a close match to the original green. What have people used for the orange?

Thanks for the help.
 
The original wood was most likely southern yellow pine. If you can find it native oak would be a good substitute. From memory the floor and sides were tongue and grooved so some mill work will be needed.
A great project!!
Paul
 
The newer Oliver Meadow Green is close. I would think Allis Persian orange,as opposed to the newer Corporate orange would be pretty close.
 
They say that the manure spreader was one implement the dealers would not stand behind once they sold it!!
 
I always wanted to have a nice horsedrawn spreader to display in our front yard at christmas time. I wanted to put a santa on the seat and fill the spreader with a heaping pile of mulch and put a sign on the side that read Merry Christmas.

My wife says I'm sick!!

I thought I was trying to be funny.
 
I used 1" pressure treated decking when I rebuilt my IH # 100. It still works and looks good after about 5 years. just my 2 cents.
 
The original wood sides and floor in a New Idea. were made of Penta treated yellow pine and dipped in hot paint. They lasted better than any other wood or steel sided spreaders. I sold lots of them In fact I sold the last 10A NI spreader it was a four wheel horse drawn spreader complete with wood tongue, double trees & neck yoke.The year was 1959 and it went to dealer in Kansas.
gitrib
 
I have one its mostly red I think to dark to go out an take a pick. You can get lots of parts from nnalert.Com Chains such even some paddles. I pull mine behind my Case LA because of the deck its easier to reach the controls.
Walt
 
If for use--not for show, use treated 3/4" plywood. Will last for 20+ yrs. Re-did 2 of them a LONG time ago. The plywood was still good when I traded them about 15 yrs after I installed the plywood.
 
Yeah, treated plywood is the way to go. I finally re-did the bottom of mine after the wife commented that if that thing got any more holes in the bottom, I wouldn't even have to turn on the beaters- just let the stuff fall out the bottom. I had to get a 10 foot piece, because the thing was 8' 9" long, so it was pretty spendy- but pretty easy to do- broke out the rotten wood with a 3 pound hammer, ground off the rivets, measured and cut the plywood and laid it in, then get underneath and drill the holes through the original rivet holes, bolt it down with carriage bolts and lock nuts. Tip- do 2 or 3 holes first and install the bolts, so it won't move around while you're drilling the rest.
 
Yes, Oliver green is close, have used it on the NI picker. Found a orange engine paint that was a real close match for the orange. It was a chrome spray can. Might have saved the can but would need to do some looking. Treated plywood is OK if you want something cheap that will work, and appearance is not that important.
 
Well, I actually went a looked closer at it today. I think it is a model #17, based upon the 36" wide conveyor chain, the metal front, and metal tops of the sides. It's also a PTO drive model. Probably a 70-80 bushel capacity.

The wood is completely gone, but the frame and most of the tin seems solid. The rims and tires don't match. They will need to be replaced.

I would like to restore the spreader, but it really just needs to work. The plywood approach is appealing, I might go with that and paint.

Thanks for the replies.
 
I have a Mod. 17, but it's not PTO-driven. Also, the wood on mine is in need of replacement. I've re-done several spreaders,and what I use to replace the wood is treated 1" x 6" lumber. Doesn't need to be tongue-and-grooved material; the crevices will dry out faster if not T & G. Unless you're going for a "show" implement. The treated lumber ought to be thoroughly dried before you assemble. That way you won't have wide cracks, and won't have the problem of paint not sticking. And then use a good oil-based primer.
 
I've been searching ebay for old brochures, I don't think I have a #17 anymore. It's about that size, but it looks like the #17 wasn't available in PTO drive so I don't really know what I have. It's probably from the late 1950's, maybe a 203 or something like that.

After one more day of thought, I think I'll be going forward with the project. Plywood will be the material of choice for the bottom, since it is easy and won't be seen. I'm not sure about the sides. If I can find some affordable T&G boards, I'll go with that approach, otherwise it'll be plywood there too.

Thanks again for all the replies.
 

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