OT--my electrical question

I see much good info here about house- hold wiring, & admit i'm pretty fuzzy in that area. Well,while installing paneling on remodel job in older part of my old farmhouse, I noticed recep boxes only have 2 copper wires, no bare grd. couple of receps were 3-prong, nothing hooked to grn. term. I plan on computer,tv here & assume my plug in surge protector can,t work,right? other hazards.Can i shut down this area,go into attic & try to thread single bare copper to recep.? what qauge? should each wire go all the way to box or pair up to larger wire?The breaker box is located in other area of home,[moved in,built-on]-pretty close,really.its all 3-wire,but these circuits were tied in 2.] thanks--paul

If you have the old 2 conductor wire through out the house it won"t do any good to try running that single wire for a grd . Your safest way is to run a new 12-2/wgrd NM wire from your main panel . As a matter of fact , why not replace all the old wire before you install the paneling ? Now"s the best time . If you have the old wiring in the kitchen , your appliances won"t be protected . If something happens any new appliance warranty would be voided if they find out . HTH ! God bless, Ken

Any chance this wiring is in steel conduit?

A properly designed "surge" arrestor will still provide some protection, even without the ground connection, via the protection device between line and neutral. But the protection from the devices from line to ground and neutral to ground is lost.

BUT, many cheap "surge" (I prefer "spike protector") protectors don't have 3 protection devices (usually Metal-Oxide-Varistors).

While you're remodeling, go ahead and put a whole-house "lightning arrestor" in the entrance panel. AND use the spike strip at the computer. The "belt-and-suspenders" approach.
Surge Arrestors

If the wire is not within a cable or armor it is called knob and tube wireing. This was the norm in the 20 s and 30 s and should be replaced. If it is as you describe I would replace it anyway. Hire a licenced electrician to evaluate your wireing or the local electricial inspector can be very helpfull. It will cost you alot less to have someone do it while the walls are open than when there closed. And you will have peace of mind later.I have 32 years in the trade and there are an abundence of new products on the market as far as surge arresting and surpressing devices. Do some homework because quality usually goes with the price. Look for UL or CSA labels on the devices surprizingly enough not all electricial equipment has them on it today. I hope this helps. Regards, John

Forgot to mention-this is 2-wire romax. kitchen is romax 12/2W grd,as is other part of house-[moved in & attached to older part i'm working on. didn't notice 2-wire til paneling was up, & was positioning boxes,so replacing wiring is pretty much off the program now. as mentioned, i can get spike protection? only receps with grd in room is where 220v recep for window unit & two 115v recep close to was added to no. wall at one time.This threw me the curve about the rest.

Whatever you do, DO NOT TIE THE NEUTRAL TO THE GROUND LUG!

I've heard of that being done before...

As I said before, as it is, your spike protectors will still offer protection from line-to-neutral spikes, but won't offer line-to-ground or neutral-to-ground protection.

Typical of wiring done in even new construction even up to the early "60"s. Only way to update it is with another conductor for proper grounding. Best bet would be to pull in new romax wires with third conductor. I have same problem with my house. Some of those outlets are about impossible to rewire. don"t think I could even pull in a single third wire to some of them. The 3 conductor outlets were probably replacements for 2 conductor outlets, and the homeowner just stuck them in, without connecting the third wire (which you say is missing.) Not a good situation, as these outlets are NOT grounded, only look like they are.

Have you got baseboard on the panneling? I ran a ground wire and fished it up to the box via a "mousehole" cut in the paneling. Put the base back on and all is good. Especially if you've got #12 wire. #14 isn't much good for ennything but light fixtures, in my opinion.

Aw why not? I ask as my hair culs and smokes

Are you dealing with old plaster & lath walls or sheetrock?

Chances are your wire is stapled to the stud around 8 to 12" above or below the box and probably up around the celing and about every 4'. If the wire runs parallel through wall for a while through holes, there probably won't be any other staples except the verticle run. If you use the old wiring to pull new wiring, be sure you have a good splices and tape it up. You will have to pull hard to loosen the staples and then get the splice through it or just let the staple pull on out. Pulling wire through a parallel wall run when the end makes and 90 degree turn to the box, is stapled, and then runs into the box is no easy pull either.

Are your present receptacles polarized with the longer slot for neutral which is needed for most new elec cords?

If not, you can add gfci receptacles to allow a 3 prong grounded polarized plug but you have to use the label that states without ground on the receptacle.

Me, I'd go with new wire even if you have to make a small hole in the wall in places to get it run. There is too much static building up around computers, chairs, floor mats, and floors to not have a good ground.

There is another safe way to update when you have this structure situation . They make wire mold & boxes that run on the surface . It doesn"t look bad at all when done correctly . When I was making my living at residentual wiring , I had areas of homes that wire mold was my only option . Check with your local electrical supply store about it . It"s even made in plastic . I hope this may help . Good luck & God bless, Ken

My old 1906 house was re-modeled/re-wired in about 1961. It has 14-2 w/ground wire on most circuits, however the ground have been clipped to the box, on the 2 prong outlets. when I update to a 3 prong outlet, I hook up the ground.
Tim in OR

Most inspectors and I talk to lot of them, would never approve single conductor for grounding. They would say it has to be part of an approved cable assembly. That means a whole lot of new cable. If its not in your budget, at least run your grounds to electrical panel grounded busbar. Waterpipe not acceptable any more. Don't forget ground fault receptacles in kitchen and bath for about 10 bucks each. Safety is the issue. Dave