Allis Update-POP

That sure sounded good!!! We got a pop out of the
B tonight!!! I was gonna try to fool around with
the mag some more, but i ran out of daylight.

I still think its timing.

But hey, i got a pop out of it!!

What i did

turned the mag back one click
made sure theres a hot bluish white on all 4s
replaced the water pump
re-primed the oil pump
checked for coolant leaks
filled her with antifreeze for the first time
Its a really good feeling too!!! Theres finally
some progress on this tractor!! Its close to
running!!! This is awesome!!! And really
frustrating. I'll keep on truckin, ANY day now!!
:-D
Pull Start Attempt
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good for you buddy. you need to haul it up to town and back to really get it a spinnin. :wink:

lol now THAT would get some wierd looks

Pretty cool Lanse! You will get it running.

any day now!! Thanks man!!! And get a dang handle!!

we did that with a ford 9n. hauled it to the next town and back behind the super a. all together about 6 miles :lol: :lol:

Lanse,
You and your videos have always been a joyful, welcome, hopeful addition to this board.
Thanks

atleast the ones i post to this board...

Thank You!!! I really enjoy making them and the best (and only) return i get from them is good people like you saying how much you like them. Thanks again

Get used to it I've been getting weird looks for 52 years. Kind of like the old saying - Smile, make people wonder what you're up to.

I can't download your videos ( don't have the patience ) since I'm now connecting at 33,333bps tops on dialup . Everything in this house just keeps getting slower including me!

Good luck with getting it started soon!! I can feel your excitement! ...Randy

Lanse, hasn't anyone described how to time that thing correctly? I am a Deere man so I wouldn't be the best person. Timing one isn't rocket science and should take less than ten minutes. Have you done a compression test to know all 4 cylinders are up to snuff, meaning the valves are doing what they are supposed to. If its got good spark and it gets there at the right time, it should run. Leave the air cleaner unhooked till you get the thing to run so you know its not an air cleaner obstruction keeping it from running. And my advice, leave the ether alone, that engine shouldn't need ether to spit. You might have to play with the throttle and choke when you are pulling it, you don't know how much slop is in the linkages so it might take some fiddling with. These old tractors aren't that hard to get running, you just need to listen to what the guys here are telling you.

Fantastic!!!

Keep up the good work Lanse , just stay after it , youll get it ! 8)

I can see the problem- the plug wires are not in the correct holes in the cap.

Starting from the front of the tractor, the wire on the #1 plug goes into the #1 cap terminal which you already have right. On the #2 plug, take the wire and put it in the other terminal in the TOP. Plug the #3 plug wire into the bottom cap terminal farthest away from the engine. Plug the #4 wire into the bottom cap terminal closest to the engine.

I've been watching this saga with Lanse for awhile now. LOVE the videos. Let me take a stab at explaining the timing thing to him. Once you have the concept of timing an engine, you can time all engines all the time.

First: with the distributor cap off, note the direction of rotation of the rotor.

Second: turn the engine over until the #1 piston is at top dead center of the compression stroke with the timing mark at exactly zero.

Third: Note the position of the rotor. Set the cap back on and make sure that the number one spark plug wire comes out if the distributor hole closest to the rotor firing point ahead of distributor rotation.

Fourth: Make sure the firing order of the spark plug wires follows the direction of rotation around from the #1 wire that you just set.

Fifth: Put the cap on tight and set the #1 wire against the block or somehwhere you can watch a spark jump. ( I stick a screwdriver in the boot and set it about 1/4" from a ground.)

Sixth: loosen the distributor clamp and slowly rotate the distributor back & forth. As you do, you can hear and see a spark jump. After you've established that every time you turn the distributor back and then ahead you can see /or hear the spark jump you're on the home stretch.

Seventh: back the distributor up (opposite the rotation) and slowly turn it ahead just until you see/hear the spark jump. Tighten the distributor clamp down. What you're doing essentially is setting the distributor up to deliver a spark right when the piston is at top dead center.

Your tractor should fire now. If it spits back through the carb, you're 180~ out of time.

Set the engine on top dead center again with the rotor set to fire #1. Take the distributor out and rotate the engine exactly one turn back to top dead center. Put the distributor back in with the rotor lining up with the #1 wire again. You have to note that as the curved distributor gear drops into place it advances the rotor slightly. One tooth off can make it not fire, so you have to be exact.
If you have followed this and your engine still won't start then you may have other problems.


You can also change the 180~ problem by rotating the distributor 180 opposite, but then you have to change the wires around, too. It's easier for me to visualize it if you turn the engine over instead.
After it runs, then you can dial in the timing with a timing light, but this should get it started.

Did I help?????

Wrong, its not a Farmall Andy. Firing order isnt the same.

Are you sure you have the plug wires in the correct firing order? I thought No1 plug wire was around 11 o'clock since the rotor turns CCW.
Hal

1-3
2-4 rotor turns CCW

Except that he is using a magneto so some of your instruction won't apply.

Chucky. There is nothing wrong with your tractor.
You need to time the mag right.

FIRST, (this is simple) Take out the #1 spark plug (thats the one at the front, closest to the radiator) Now with your thumb over the spark plug hole have a friend crank the engine over till you feel air pressure on your thumb, (you might have to try this several times to get it right. Once you start to feel some air coming out, STOP cranking. Now, with a piece of wire or something, (I use a screwdriver or my plier handle) poke in the hole and continue craking the engine SLOWLY. You will be able to tell when the piston is at it's verry top. Grab the fan and rock it back and forth a little to be sure it's at the top. (you might want to take all the spark plugs out so it turns easier) NOW....without moving ANYTHING, Take the distributor cap off. See which way the brass piece on the rotor is pointing. That is where the spark is coming from and it needs to get directed to number one cylinder at this time because it is the one that is ready to fire. (Do you understand how a 4 cycle engine works? ) Four strokes, Intake stroke, as the piston goes down, intake valve opens and fuel mixture is sucked in. Compression stroke, both valves closed, piston comes up and squeezes fuel vapor real tight, when at the top of the stroke spark occurs BOOM, Power stroke piston is forced downward by explosion, (I know you understand that) both valves are closed. Exhaust stroke exaust valve opens as piston comes up and burnt gasses are expelled. The other 3 clylinders follow in like manner. In your case 1,2,4,3. Let's see, now, where was I? Oh yeah, The rotor. Look at that pointer piece. Now look at the cap. Is it pointing toward one of the holes in the cap? close to it? before or slighly after? Slightly after is good. Before will break your arm. Stick #1 plug wire in that hole. (nothing else matters at this point, let's get the tractor running first) Now continue in a clockwise direction and insert the other plug wires, 1,2,4,3 and reinstall the spark plugs. Try starting it now. Unless you have had the magneto apart and messed up the internal timing (very easy to do) it shoud at least try to run.

Since when? On a clockwise mag the rotor turns clockwise. That should be simple enough to remember.

Randy, let the vid download while you are doing something else. Then when you come back just hit replay and it should come through for you.

Thanks for the info. Hal

This web site may help. Hal

http://www.worldpath.net/~thompsom/acb/magtiming/magtiming.htm

Those are good instructions but that is not the mag Chuck is using.

WHAT Nebraska Cowman SAYS !!!!!

Lanse i almost never post,but i lurk alot it sounds to me like its trying to run = timing is close. lack of enough fuel will make it try but not keep running. Richen the mixture, choke it also. PS try not holding the clutch all the way down, dads cub does that and if you let up a little it stops grinding.

I've never tried this with a newly rebuilt engine, but I've gotten several tractors running that sat a long time and I have had good results with holding my hand over the carburetor and completely choking it off till my hand was wet with gas and letting go. This has worked several times on engines that just wouldn't go.

hey lanse, i showed this my gramp today and you know what he said to try? put about a quart of supreme gas for every gallon of regular to get it running. theres something to do with the flamability(if thats even a word) and it should start easier. he heard of it from somewhere years ago. i hope its not one of those old mechanics tale-tales.