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OT Skid steer starting

D

Dieselrider

Member
New Holland LX665. This rig usually fires quick and easy. Wednesday I loaded some round bales for a customer and everything was good. Yesterday, I went to start the machine and it acts like a dead battery. I went around and checked and cleaned the connections to everything- battery, starter etc. Finally was able to get it jump started but, even with a jump it acted as though, it wasn't getting enough juice. I will pull the battery and have it checked but, could this be a starter problem? Heaters and such seem to be counting down for the plugs and the primary pump are trying to run, it just seems weak. Also, if on the battery charger, the battery isn't drawing much juice, like it is already charged.
Anytime I have had starter problems with anything else, they usually give some sort of warning as to progressing to a problem.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
I think the hardest to find problem I encountered was when the ground cable had a bad connection at the vehicle end of the cable. Worth at least checking.
 
Make sure the connection at the starter is clean and tight and that your ground at all points are clean and tight. Next would be to load test the battery . If that checks out ok then it would be on to the starter as if the bearings or bushing are getting wore this could cause it to DRAG and turn slow. One other thing here to think about is programing in a lock code into your skidsteer that way only you can start it and not be in the same boat that my buddy end up in when someone borrowed his . his also was a LX 665 and now we have two to play with they both have a lock code for the next time someone want to borrow it they ain't getting far.
 
Did you simply boost the battery and then start it from the seat, or did you cross the starter terminals when you boosted it?
I find that 99% of the time, when I have a electrical problem on my LS, it's in either the seat belt buckle contacts or the micro switches in the seat cushion. If those lockouts don't close in sequence, it won't let you start the engine, but you will get a 'click' when you turn the key.

Beyond that, all I can suggest is clean, bright and tight on all the connections, including the connection studs on the starter. If that doesn't clear it up, and it still drags with a good boost, then pull the starter and have it rebushed and new brushes...
I doubt that the boom hydraulics would prevent it from starting even if the valve was fully 'on', but I could be wrong.

Rod
 
code programed into your skidsteer that bypasses anything you have programed into it.

easy to get from any NH dealer so your lock code dont mean a thing to someone who really wants to take your skidloader.
 
But now with this little added time it make easier to lock and load and take better aim . And oh by the way don't come in from the back side of the farm anymore it's not safe .
 
I am thinking it is the battery or some thing electrical. When first turning the key on the lights on the panel are dim. Has to be battery or connection somewhere. The starter being bad would not effect the lights on the panel.
 
Tried both, same result. If it is a connection, it must be in the wiring harness. The seat belt usually just doesn't allow it to start at all. That would not make the lights on the panel dim, right?
 
Yeah, I'd say if you've got dim panel lights, then it's a bad battery or cable... Mabey one of the main battery cables is near broken and only a couple strands of copper are holding it, or the ground strap?

Rod
 
The cables look to be in real good shape. Molded right to the end and everything appears to be solid, and has good continuity when checked with ohm meter.
The bad thing I am running into now is trying to get the battery out of the compartment. Book says 15 minute job. Couple hours later and it's still there.
 
Did you take the starter and have it checked? There have been a few times when I thought the battery and connections were bad, but it was actually the starter.
 
maybe so but atleast i back up what i say and i have the guts to post a handle . You remind me of the woosie guy with the big CB radio hiding in the bunk at a truck stop running his alagator mouth backed up by his canary arrs .
 
That will be the second thing checked, if I can ever get the battery out. The starter will not be easy to get out either, but it might be easier if the battery were not in there.
 
Success! Well, at least the battery is out. I had to drop the skid plate and battery box and take it out the bottom. The manual says to tilt it and lift it out the top. Maybe this is not the original battery but, there is no way it was coming out the top. I hope this turns out to be the problem. Thanks guys. I will try to let you know how it goes from here.
 
If the aux. hydraulics are on will make it turn over slower and act like the battery is low. In colder weather could definately make it not start. Even at cranking speed, the hydraulic pump running against the relief valve will use a lot of H.P. Dave
 
Ohm meter won't show a fault sometimes.
Set the voltmeter to volts. Then measure across the battery before and during cranking. Shouldn't drop below 10V.
Measure from the battery + post to the starter's brass post going into the motor while cranking. Measure from the battery - post to the starter's cat body while cranking. Neither should show more than 0.2V .
 
That shouldn't cause the lights on the dash to be dim as soon as the key is turned on or the primary fuel pump to run slow, should it?
 
No. I was just confirming another reason for turning over slow and/or not starting. I replaced a bunch of cables on my skid steer. My lights go out after a while along with all electrical power. If I shut the light switch off for a minute or 2, the power comes back. I have to do some more checking on things myself. Dave
 
That would be tough to check unless you have two people. You can't crank this without being in the seat and the seat belt on. If I have further problems then the battery, I will inlist some aid to check this out. Thanks
 
I know where you're coing from with that....
but I doubt it's ever a factor on those machines. If it's gone through it's proper heat cycle on the glow plugs, it starts on the first roll. The pumps wouldn't build enough pressure quick enough to matter.
If it got into extended cranking, then yes, I can see what you're saying.

Rod
 
I use a farily high end Fluke meter for that kind of thing. It's got a datalog feature that will capture that info so you can go cycle the key, then come back and see what it did.
Mine is actually an UltraPro, sold by Napa... but it's a Fluke all the same.

Rod
 
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