O.T. Replacement chainsaw bar

Looking to replace the 24 inch bar on our Husky 395XP. Got it back from the "loanee" and it now has a bend in it that causes the bar to drift to one side and then jams halfway through the cut. Anyway, I'm familiar with Oregon bars but came across two brands I've never used before--"GB" & "Windsor". The GB brand is cheap, so I assume its imported. Anyone have any field experience with either of these brands?
 
Can you see the bend in the bar? Sounds more like your loanee might have filed the chain wrong and that will cause a wandering and binding bar. As for a new bar I always use Oregon, The cheap ones usually don't have good runner material and will burn or wear out.
Don
 
We use Oregon or Stihl bars. Likewise on the chain.
I'd also agree with the other post... If you can't see the bend in the bar, I'd give the chain a good filing or replace the chain because I'd suspect the problem is with the chain, not the bar.

Rod
 
(quoted from post at 15:56:11 02/10/09) Looking to replace the 24 inch bar on our Husky 395XP. Got it back from the "loanee" and it now has a bend in it that causes the bar to drift to one side and then jams halfway through the cut. Anyway, I'm familiar with Oregon bars but came across two brands I've never used before--"GB" & "Windsor". The GB brand is cheap, so I assume its imported. Anyone have any field experience with either of these brands?

:) Oregon, Windsor or OEM Husqvarna will prolly all be within a buck or two of each other, and of similar quality! :shock: i would agree with the others in that it's most likely the chain not the bar that's causing the dishing! :eek: The simplest fix is prolly a new chain, unless you're good with a file! :roll: If you have a second chain, throw it on and see if the problem goes away. :wink:
Dave 8)
 
The bend is quite visible--the last 8-10" (at the sprocket end) is bent over about 1/8" inch to one side. I tried flipping the bar over--same results. As to the chain filing, that's not the problem, as I've run into that before but the cut continues on through the log--it just curves to one side. This time the bar get about halfway through and jams up and the engine gets loaded down pretty heavy--like its rubbing the chain on both top & bottom of the bar--almost acting like a brake when it gets in this position.

Back to filing part, I'm familiar with filing chains--been doing it since about 1972 or so--got trained by a pro in a chainsaw repair shop in Miss. Won't call myself an expert, but have properly sharpened many a saw for heavy production cutting over the years...so I'm still thinking its the bar, though I will try a new chain with the old bar just to make sure. Thanks for the help.
 
Oregon bought the Windsor saw chain and bar company a couple years ago. Very good bars. GB bars are also top of the line, made in Australia. The impoted bars are cheap is a little off base in saw bars because some of the Oregon Power match bars are made in Canada. Some Canon bars are made in Japan.
 
Unless your worried about spending a few bucks, why wouldent you just get a husky bar? I have Stihl saws and I would only get a Stihl bar for them, a Rollamatic ES or or E. Im sure husky bars are fine for there saws??
 
Ya might take it into a good saw shop and let them work on it. There is quite a bit than can be done to them, I am sure you aren't the first guy to bend a bar. Isn't a 395 xp a little overkill for a 24" bar? I have one for my 372xp, and it's a little unbalanced, so I generally run it w/ a 32". A 395 is a whole lot more saw than a 372.
I run Oregon bars. Never had a problem.
Ben
 
I had a good friend who was very good with a torch he took his time with applying the heat and slowly straitening it out you don't have to be perfect just close. Other wise yes buy a new bar and give her hell, afterall your friend is picking up the tab yes, no
 
I wouldn't guess that a 1/8" bend is going to give you trouble. But I sure can understand being a might bit disappointed with a "friend" returning it in that condition. Like the others, I suspect the chain is the problem. I'd take the chain off and use a group of leaves from a feeler gauge to see if the bar has been pinched in the groove. I check my bars that way for excessive wear. Also check the chain drive teeth for one or 2 having a burr at the curve where it engages the drive sprocket. Then check the spacing on the chain's drive teeth by spreading them by hand and comparing one to the next with a caliper. You might have some partially sheared rivets.

If you want to straighten out the bar, it can be done with the careful use of an H frame hydraulic press. Put the pressure on the center of the bar (top to bottom) so that you do not pinch the chain groove. I would not use a torch on a bar, as it will probably affect the hardening of the steel. It got bent cold, it can get bent back cold.

I have used the search on Epay with the correct bar number, and have hit on some liquidator in Nevada who gets a lot of close-out dealer stock. I have bought 2 genuine Husky bars in the $10-$15 range for 16" bars for my 266SE saw. That size at the dealer is about $50. Certainly your bigger size will cost more.

Your 395XP saw is one really fine saw. It should be still working for you for the next 25 or more years. I still have a 1970's model 5600 (92 cc) Poulan from back when they were a German company, and I used to be strong enough to use it for all day cutting. I know your Husky is much more refined, but I'll bet it can work a guy to complete exhaustion long before lunch break.

Good luck with finding the solution to your problem.

Paul in MN
 
you are getting some good advice here; I've sold & used GB (Australian) & Windsor (Canadian) bars. Both good stock. And thats an easy bend to straighten.
 
It came with a 36" bar, but we bought a 24" to cut the live oak limbs and water oak trees damaged by the hurricanes...I only use the 36" bar for the big tree trunks we're cutting...you're correct though--this saw somewhat "overpowered" for a 24" bar....
 
What is your problem? I dont loan my chainsaws out period. But IF I did and it came back with a visable bend in the bar, I would go straight to the borrower and give him the part number for an EXACT replacement bar. Tell him you want a new one delivered to your house within 3 days, no off-brand. Dont accept less. Remember we "teach" folks how to treat us. Tom
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top