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Gotta vent, any one want a Chev 1 ton, what do I do.

D

Dave from MN

Well-known Member
Just got back from Cheverolet dealer with the 1 ton truck(barely).
They said the transmission is shot again. The small amount of coolant
from the bad radiator it HAD, is the reason. Regardless of being
rebuilt that coolant wrecked this transmission too. To rebuild the
transmission is $2000-$2300, comes with a 1 year warrently. A new GM
transmission is about $3100, comes with 3 year 100,000 mile warrenty.
Beyond this they said there are ABS brake sensor codes which could be
only $140 to replace a sensor( the mooing brakes and pedal push back), BUT it is possible
that the main brake computer module is the problem, they cant tell
unless they replace the sensors. The module is close to $1000, if it's disconnected the torque convertor will not lock up like it is supposed to. The
truck is also giving off some engine codes that say it is running
lean, which I am guessing is caused by the catalitic convertor's being
removed prior to me having it. . I dont know what to do. The truck
was $3500, engine tune up was about $800, 1st rebuild was $2000, this
last time trying to get it to work was $650, the radiator was $380.
Thats $7300 and I still need to rebuild the transmission again, $9600
total. I am gonna have to rebuild even if I wanted to trade it in or
sell it, cause who wants a truck that doesnt F'ing move. I'm just
------, it's no ones fault. . I should have left it at the shop and
said rebuild it, but I figured I could make it home, I barely did, it
kept going out on me, and my cell phone was near dead. I was only able
to drive 10-20 mph the last 5 miles, and it kept going in
and out. I'm so mad right now I cant even think what to do.
 
SORRY TO HEAR ABOUT THE PROBLEMS, SOMETIMES SEEMS LIKE THEY NENER END. BUT TAKE HEART!!!! WHEN YOUR STIMULUS CHECK COMES IN THE MAIL YOU CAN PROCURE YOURSELF A NEW TRUCK.
 
Wanna trade? I was just going to go out and see if my Ford diesel would start. Last Tuesday,I finally got it going but the starter was smoking and smelled like an arc welder. I left it sit in the garage til yesterday. Crawled under it and tightened all the cables,but there's some heat damage. With the morning I've had already,maybe a can of soup would be a better idea for lunch than finishing off that starter to try to go to the Chat and Chew.
 
Dave, Sorry to hear about your truck. Have you thought about a salvage yard or a trans from a wreck??? You can buy them pretty afortable and replace the one in your truck with it. Depending on how it runs & drive either keep it or try to sell it. Either way it a working truck again. Hope this helps Charlie
 
I'd be thinking used transmission and proceed from there. Either keep it or trade it off. This would be the cheapest way to get it moving again. Bud Jones salvage in Onamia Mn has been very good in dealing with used parts at good prices.
Sorry for the frustrating experience.
 
Sounds like its old enough to put a lock up switch for the tranny.

I'm curious, are they saying because you were low on engine coolant you fried your tranny? Usually the tranny cooler is in the bottom tank of the rad, so your engine is pretty much dry if thats dry, and unless you're towing, the tranny can usually dump enough heat via the pan and case to survive.
 
I'm an idiot, sounds like anti-freeze got into the tranny. I'd put a separate tranny cooler on the new tranny. Any chance you can put a junk yard one in to get you through until you have money to rebuild?

I blew the manual tranny in my Toyota car at 60,000 miles and Toyota wouldn't help. Was 2000$ for the scrapyard tranny since they are in high demand. I could have had an auto for the same car for 400$. Toyota claims it knows of no problem.
 
I may be behind times, but it seems like you could get a junk yard trans a lot cheaper and swap it yourself. Probably have the same success rate as a rebuild. Then, when it's running, unload it and get a Ford (couldn't resist). I saw a real clean w/ no rust, very low (30k) mileage, mid '90's 4dr F350 (5.8 5sp) on ebay go for just under 4k a little while ago.

Good Luck,


Dave
 
HEY!!!!!

Don't bother fixing it... just put it on ebay.

Say it belonged to external_links' mama. She got too old to climb in and traded it for a chrysler 300 that she gave to her boy...


Dave
 
Dave,

What year/engine is this truck??

I don`t really believe that the ABS would affect the converter lock-up, but I`ll do alittle digging into it..
 
Sorry to hear about your truck trouble.

If it was me. I would look around for a mechanic who can do this job. Get a few estimates.
Some times dealer service dept are cheaper. But most times I get the feeling you are thier cash cow.

Some guys can give you a price incl install for new, rebuilt and used.

I have had my guy put a used part on from the junk yard. That did not work too well. They just pull the part and he puts it on. If its bad the Junk yard will replace it. All well and good except I have to pay the mechanic 3 times. Put it on the 1st time, pull it off the 2nd and put the replacement back.
If you want to use used. Ask if you can provide the tranny. If he just calls the junk yard. What one you going to get? I would want to choose my poisen.
 
If I was in your place, I would go to a reputable transmission shop and get an estimate for rebuild or exchange. I was an automatic transmission technician, many years ago, for two dealerships and one independent shop. Sadly times have changed over the years, and there are not many "mechanics" today, they are parts changers.
After repair, remember these bad experiences, and consider another brand truck.
 
All the darned thing would do is click. Good thing the wife didn't have to leave for work until 10am this morning. I took her truck to town to get that hydraulic hose that I needed. Guess I'm home for the rest of the day unless I drive a tractor to town.
 
Sounds like my 1996 half ton Chevy. I had some trouble free years and now it all of a sudden seemed to reach the age where everything is failing on it. Sadly, I can't afford to get rid of it for at least another few years.
 

My brother is still driving almost daily a '79 Ford that he bought new. 20 +/- a couple years ago, he changed the original 6 cyl at 300k miles.

Dave
 
It"s a 1997 Chevrolet 3500, 4L80 transmission, 4:11 gears, 454 vortec, limited slip front and rear. I ran for almost a year with the ABS module diconnested and brakes beig like any other non ABS system and they worked fine, then when the first bought of problems after the rebuild and the mech discovered trannie cooler was bypassing coolant/TFluid, he said I needed to have it connected for torque lock up, he was the one that said to disconnect. Any thing you can tell me would help. This truck is all set up for 5th wheel, with the big booster spring packs and everything. The engine was well cared for with regular oil changes. I just makes me sick, she"s a heck of a tough truck.
 
I kind of wish they still made that 300 6.
best motor ever made in my opinion.

That motor for a truck was sort of like the diesel in the 1st Farmall 806's. Just kept running and no one knew why.
 
I have a 1965 Ford 1 ton with that 300-6 in it. I use it every year to haul hay in. The old thing doesn't have but 81,000 miles on it and that is true miles by the way. Big problem is it has no brakes and the king pins are bad. If it didn't cost so much to fix I would probably fix it. But the king pins are over $150 each and I'll not even talk about the brakes
 
Looks like you're going to be upside down now on its value reguardless of what you choose to do. The question is, if you fix it up, what will break next? (motor, fuel pump?) And more importantly, can you afford to fix it and stay sane?

I would go the private mechanic route if possible, or sell the truck as a fixer up. Dealers are expensive, but nice used trucks are cheap right now.

The catalytic converter was probably removed because it was plugged, maybe because of buring oil conditon?

The running lean code, probably means you have a intake gasket leak, or a faulty O2 sensor.

GOOD LUCK.
 
There is one for $300 on craigs list Minneapolis now.

1995 4L80 E AOD transmission
4x4 from a 6.5 diesel engine.
call Ken @ 952-758-5078
 
Just looking on car-parts.com, there are a few pages of used transmissions for that truck between $500-$800. In all honesty, for what they are charging, you could buy a twin post hoist + trans jack + a used transmission and still come out ahead. Sounds like they really want your money....I'd do some calling around.
 
Being a Chevy delership Tech, a transmission and drivability on top of that, I can say for certain, especially on that truck that the ABS and torque converter are completely isolated. The only thing that happens with the torque converter clutch that is brake related is it releases when the brake pedal is pressed. That is a direct input to the PCM, so if ABS were non functionable, makes no difference.
It sounds like you have had the unwanted ABS activation. If so, it's most likely rust buildup under the sensor in the front wheels. The rust builds up under the sensor and pushes it away from the tone ring casuing signal loss. The ABS interprets this as a wheel locking and the ABS functions like you're trying to stop on ice. Simple to fix. Pull the wheel speed sensors, buff off the rust, paint the bare metal, put the sensors back.
Lean codes are NOT caused by a missing catalytic converter. Vacuum leaks, air leaks between the mass air sensor and engine, dirty filters and injectors usually cause most lean codes. A weak fuel pump can do it too, although most people overlook the fuel filter.
Water getting into the trans fluid, given enough time, will cause the friction material to delaminate from it's backing plates. A SRTA (service replacement trans assembly) carries a 3 year 100K warranty. Most of the problems I find on an 80 is the stator support and input housing shaft wear grooves and you may loose gears due to internal hydraulic leaks. The wearing of these parts is most often caused by towing/hauling heavy loads in overdrive. The converter hub bushing is another common problem.
If they rebuilt it once already because coolant got in the trans and didn't put a new radiator in, it's their fault and they owe you a trans repair on their dime.
My personal opinion is you might want to find a different Chevy dealer to work with. From your description, they might be lacking in diagnostic skill.
Brian Jasper Co. Ia. ASE master Certified and L1 Advanced Engine Performance Specialist
 
Maybe a dumb question, but did they actually change the tranny fluid AND filter/screen when doing this diagnosis?

I've seen more than one vehicle appear to have a bad transmission (slipping to the point of not moving), but it turns out the filter was just plugged. If this hasn't been done, I would do that first thing. Especially if there was water in there.
 
As I see it, depends on if you want to keep the truck or get another one. If you want/plan to keep it, slap a used transmission in it, clear the codes, and trade it. If you plan to keep it, get a good independent shop to rebuild your old one.

What Ive discovered is there arent many cheap vehicles. Some you pay up front (new), some you pay as you go (well used), and some you pay both (almost new). Right now, in this market, if it was me, I'd slap a used transmission in it and get a new one. With all the discounts they are practically paying you to take one home.

I messed up on my Dodge last year. Ended up putting a head, injection pump, injectors, PCM and ECM, lift pump, clutch, trans top cover, and a front end under it. It runs like a new one but its still a 10,000 dollar truck, with 10,000 worth of new stuff in it. I'd have been way better off to have taken a lowball trade of 6000, put that 10 with it, and added 10 to drive home a brand new one with a warranty.
 
Brian, I had those ABS symptoms on my 2001. Had to go to the internet to find the fix 'cause my dealer didn't know of ANY problems with ANY GM vehicles. I fixed it myself. The ABS WILL NOT ever give me trouble again.
 
Dave,

Here I was all prepared to go into your ABS problem and Brian Jasper (above) nailed it.

As for coolant contamination, he`s right again. Seems like no matter how many times you flush the thing, eventually the bonding starts to let go on the clutch linings and your in trouble. Any amount of antifreeze also raises heck with your electrical components in the trans.

For now, unless it really bothers you I wouldn`t get worried about the ABS problem. The only way I would approach fixing a trans with fluid contamination is a complete rebuild. All the clutches and bands go, all the electrical goes, as does the converter. That`s before whatever hard parts it might take..

I assume the estimate you got for the SRTA reman includes labor, still is too much in my opinion.
If you go with the in house job, I would really question what they are planning to replace. Most dealerships around here anyway will work on a trans to a point, and then pull the plug and say it`s time for a reman, so unless they like you you can get doubled up on some labor..

As for used, I just checked on the locator and I`d prepare to spend around a grand for one with low enough miles to even consider, then you have R&R labor. If it works out, maybe, if not then your close to the price of rebuilding and are still dealing with used..

Here`s my disclaimer: I own an independent transmission repair shop, my opinion may reflect that...

That said, find a reputable trans shop in your area, explain to them what you have going on. If the truck slips that bad, it shouldn`t be rocket science for them to give you an estimate.
Ask labor rates, ask if they will itemize your bill and keep the parts they replaced so you can see them, ask about warranty.

The bottom line is that`s a late design 4L80E, pretty darn good trans. It`s basically an electronic overdrive 400 with some great lube updates. If the radiator issue is resolved and it`s built right, should be pretty problem free. The ones I work on are normally pretty high miled.. hope some of my rambling has helped BW
 
ABS was engaging at slow speeds on dry surfaces. Pulled the fuse. No more problem. No cost to fix.
It is a known and recognized problem on several models of GM cars and trucks. GM should have issued a recall, but they choose to ignore it.
 
Brian. Looking at the ABS module, which plug is the one I would disconnect to properly deactivate the ABS? Now with this disconnected, and my transmission rebuilt hopefully later this week ( St. Cloud Transmissions quoted me $1650 and said they are very familiar with this problem), my torque lock up "should" work normal? I know the previous mechanic "claimed" to have cleaned the mass air flow sensor and I have noticed that I have had erratic cold and warm idle since I got it back, maybe he reassemble something wrong? I think he knows his stuff, but I am starting to think the newer vehicles he is kinda flying by the seat of his pants and learning as he goes, rather than being schooled on the actual systems like yourself and other GM mechanics. Please give me some more help if ya can. The truck is pretty solid otherwise and if I can get over this transmission and ABS issue I think I would have a decent farm truck for myself or at least feel comfortable selling it, knowing it's main issues are corrected. I did some pricing even with new truck prices being lower, I cant bring myself to spend the money on something that will depreciate so fast.
 
To rebuild the
transmission is $2000-$2300, comes with a 1 year warrently. A new GM
transmission is about $3100, comes with 3 year 100,000 mile warrenty
 
Some of the dealers do shoddy work as I can testify to. 95



FordF350 pulling RV lost transmission at 80000 miles in SC. Got towed to dealership and paid to have a Ford reman installed. 2200$. Got 400 miles up the road and trans started miss shifting. Aha, Ford 1 year warranty in hand go to Ford dealership Murphy NC. Dealer says, where did tou get the truck. I replied Fl. He said---take it back there for your work. Very p$$$$d off so about 10 calls to Ford they say take it to dealer. He is mad. I was upset he says gotta leave it. Then as the check out to model # to order new one find out the SC dealer put in a B not a D. way to small. More phone calls and finally dealer from SC send right transmission to Murphy. Took Ford dealer twoo weeks to install it(thih can all be verefied, not a tall tale. Get it out of the shop and drive it for a day all ok. Hook up trailer and get 200 mile up the road going up a long mountain from Tenn to Kentucky, tranns explodes. Get ti small ford dealership in Kentuky and they order another trans.(#4) While replacing the oil cooler he finds it completely plugged up with tar. Never was changed before. Therein lies to tale abbout dealership workmanship Took three to get it right. Henry
 
"The ABS interprets this as a wheel locking and the ABS functions like you're trying to stop on ice. Simple to fix. Pull the wheel speed sensors, buff off the rust, paint the bare metal, put the sensors back."

I have never seen this event set a code,,, if the module accepts this as a wheel lock'n up then it would not set a code,,, I know well what you are talk'n about,,, I also have run into were the rear shoes were replaced on a 2500 or 3500 and the same thing happen,,, its the aftermarket friction material that was 2 aggressive and lock'n 1 are both of the rears up BUT you would never know about the event cuzz the ABS jumped in and started ABS activation (hold on for dear life for fear of not woo'n it down),,, pull the ABS fuse and the rear wheels would lock up abnormal,,, I have been the owner of rite many GM truck and never had one that had good brakes,,, must B a GM thang,,,
Hobo,NC "ASE master Certified with L1 Advanced Engine Performance Specialist patch
 
How long have you owned it? Sounds like its been run hard and put away wet. I would get rid of it. You will end up spending more money than if you had bought a new one, and many many more headaches. Sounds like a real on-going money pit to me. Tom
 
Yup. My 88 f150 has the 300 6 and a 5 sp. Mazda transmission behind it, and it's bullet proof. Got almost 200,000 on the original clutch and it doesn't burn a drop of oil yet. Don't drive it as much anymore though, and the body is rusting out really bad so unfortunately I don't know how much longer we can run it before the body won't go anymore...

I do however trust the drivetrain to go on a 300 mile trip without leaving me on the shoulder. Something my '95 Acheiva is making me question lately... 2 months ago the water pump, this weekend the thermostat, needs exhaust, etc. etc.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
Well GM doesn't offer any NEW trannies they are all REMAN. No part numbers for them in the electronic catalog they supply here at work.
Didn't check the Performance Catalog though ?
I was figuring they were selling the GM reman for $3,100 and a local rebuilder would do it for $2,000
 
A 2300 dollar rebuild is probably 1500 labor or more. Get a local shop or independent to do the work.
 
I"ve had it since Feb "05, before that my father in law had it, used it for hauling cattle, thats his business, he changed oil very often and took good care of it. I know he spent over $800 having the brakes all redone shortly before I bought it. I had no problems with it for about 2 years, then the transmission went.
 
King pins at Rock Auto for F 350,1965 300 6cyl,Spicer/Raybestos 5301055 $36.79(with bearing and metal bushing,both pins)MOOG 8458B $34.79,AND MOOG 8458B10 $45.79.
You might call to be sure,it said kit on all of them and by the picture all had 2 pins,shims,bushings.Didnt look any further,but a good parts store ought to be able to get them for close to that.Not sure which one is yours could be the Spicer as the other 2 showed up for 390 V8 motor.
 
Before I spent a lot at a dealer I would call some salvage yards and see what one would cost from them,then see what a rebuild place would want.I think maybe I would also go to a parts store and buy a manual on that transmission,see what a rebuild kit would cost and see how hard it is to do.You might pull the pan yourself,change the filter,and get it to go again for a while.I have done that on a couple of Fords.Never had a lot of Chevys.
 
I will have to check into that. Last time I checked at my local store they said they had to special order them and they where $150 or so each, but that was a few years ago. I also need the master cylinder at around $150 and a couple wheel cylinders. I got a rebuild kit for the master at one time and it was the wrong one.
Thanks
 
Dint look too far on Rock Autos site but they have Bendix 11265 for $51.89,A 1 Cardone 1042195 rebuilt for $52.99,and Dorman M36176 FOR $73.79.There were others up to 200 dollars.Didnt look at the kit and as far as that goes something off of another listing like International is probably the same thing if it would happen to be cheaper.A good parts man should be able to match up something for less than 150 dollars.If not I would go to a junk yard and see if I could find something that would work off of a newer truck.You might want a dual master cylinder anyway if you dont have one.Plus you probably can change those front brakes to disk brakes if the king pin would work on newer spindles.If its a twin I beam theres a good chance something will interchange.A newer dual master cylinder is not that high priced.
 
Straight I-beam front axle. This truck also has factory dump bed on it and yep single master type cylinder with vacuum boost. Also has to 6 hole wheels which I have 2 of that are bad. I have found those used but they want $50 each just for the wheels
 
i just read this entire post and didnt understand most of it except for that its going to cost a whole bunch of money to repair something that shouldnt be broke in the first place, stuff like this is one of the reasons i refuse to trade up, this post scares me to death, my chevy 1 ton is a 1983, flatbed with dump, and it just keeps going , the few things that have required attention ive been able to fix myself, but that ammounts to 2 clutches a rear main seal a fuel pump and a starter in 26? years, it may be time to pull some of these old hulls out of the fence row, rebuild them and drive them just like our old tractors less problems that way
 
Dosent matter how well you take care of it, anything built today is plane junk! Had a 2002 silverado chevy 26000 miles the brakes were shot. Truck sat for 2 weeks the rust damage was unbelieveable. Dealer said looks like this truck was driven in water? I said what am I supposed to do stay home when it rains, because your product is junk. Trucks may be more fuel efficent today but look at the trade off. No more straight front axle, not many leaf springs in the rear, cheap sheet metal, all kinds of electronics,....... but the interior is so nice, plush, comfy, who cares if you can put any weight in the back. I still have a 84 chevy K20 4wd and a 89 3500 with a dunmp rack. the two best trucks I have. You couldent give me a new 3/4 chevy for my old 84 k20, that is a truck.
 
I'd have a independent shop look at it. I am a GM retiree, but when my vehicles go out of warranty, I usually take it to a local guy here, he is about 1/2 the cost of a dealer.
 
Forgot to mention 1989 chevy 3500, pulling a trailer half its life 172,000 miles, tranny, turbo 400, never been touched, 3 speed lousy gas milage. Better than todays trannys. Also origanal 350 motor. 84 has the 4 speed, low 123 reverse tranny, new clutch thats about all.
 
It pays the tech about 15 hours to remove, overhaul, flush the cooler lines, and reinstall. It's a crap shoot going with a junkyard unit. Many times they are half to 2/3 the price of a reman with a "parts only" warranty meaning if it conks out, you get to R&R it yourself, or pay the labor to have it done.
 
(quoted from post at 18:02:10 01/20/09) I will have to check into that. Last time I checked at my local store they said they had to special order them and they where $150 or so each, but that was a few years ago. I also need the master cylinder at around $150 and a couple wheel cylinders. I got a rebuild kit for the master at one time and it was the wrong one.
Thanks
Click to expand...

Rock auto is your friend.... Real fast delivery, and they send you these neat little refridgerator magnets with musclecars on them with your order.
Kinda like crackerjacks for grownups.......... Got pictures also, so you can verify correct parts. You could end up with all you need for less than the price of a kingpin quote.

Good Luck

http://www.rockauto.com/

Dave
 
The barkes are no problem -Just unplug teh sensor. The ABSlight will be on ,but you save the money and you really don't need ABSanyway.
 
I replaced the master cylinder in a 3/4 ton 77 chevy for 18.50 a few years ago.Brakes worked fine until you had to make a hard stop,then sunk to the floor.Dual master cylinders dont help much, they just take a little longer to pump all the fluid out.Always check Rock Auto before you buy parts.They are a true wholesaler, dont sell at 3 different prices.Just priced some parts for my 96 half ton,5.00 for a wheel cylinder,15.00 for brake shoes.They had a bearing and hub for 99.00 Napa 139.00 others got 183.99 for the same part.Friend paid 350.00 to have that same part replaced in his Chevy.If I was younger I would go back to auto repair and do it at honest prices.My son had a 10.00 part replaced at a Ford dealer.He was able to watch the work .Actual time spent lifting and doing the work 15 minutes.The rest of the time was spent wiping off many tools and fooling with a radio on the bench.The clerk gave him a bill for 95.00 on the labor,he gave her 30.00 and told he watched the entire job.She changed the labor to 30.00.I do all my own work when possible.If I could find a rust free 70s pickup I would buy it today. electrical diagram covers 13 pages in the service manual. .The 96 truck if full on unneeded junk.
 
Full coverage and a bad electrical shot Just show where you put all this money in it. We will probably see more of this in this economy.
 
It doesn't take much water to screw up an automatic trans. The wet clutches have friction material bonded to the steel plates with a water based bonding agent. Oil won't bother it, but water will cause the bonding agent to let go and the friction stuff will fall off. Girl here in town had an ex put tranny fluid in her car one day as they were in the prosses of breaking up. The turkey filled up a trans fluid bottle with water, put it in her car and it lasted 1 day. I told her she should have sued him since it was fine before he touched it and there was no water in it then. Trannys with water or antifreeze mix in them need new clutch plates and a complete and thorogh flushing including the converter and cooler lines. Suprised the dealer didn't do that if they fixed a cooler problem in the radiator.
 
After reading some of the posts about the brakes, It may be that one or both rears are trying to lock and sending a signal. If there was some work done and a brake line opened up (and the brake pedal was bumped accidently) it may be possible the propotional valve may have reset itself to send the fluid to the rears instead of balancing the pressure. Had that happen on a dodge and an Olds. It can be reset by cracking open a bleeder on the rear and having someone push the brake pedal down part way and closing the bleeder back up and testing it on gravel till it works right.
 
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