OT-Clutch on 93Ford250Diesel

TWheat

Member
Seems like I have too much free travel pushing down on the clutch petal. There is some seepage on the slave cylinder(external) and I added some fluid to the reservoir, which made no difference. .Petal has to be ALL the way against the floorboard to shift and no free travel letting out the clutch.
Slave cylinder, master cylinder, or worse?
 
Might as well replace them both. If fluid is getting out,air is getting in. And don't put it off,or you will end up replacing all the synchronizers in the tranny. Right now you are slowing the input shaft down with the clutch,but stopping it with the synchros,when you try to put it in gear.
 
Could be worn bushings in the clutch linkage. If it"s like the 90 there"s a pivot point on the clutch lever going through the firewall that"s probably wore out. Look directly above the accelerator pedal.
 
Sounds like trouble with the Clutch Cylinder and maybe your Clutch Disc is going away. Time for a new Clutch Job. Don't forget the Pilot Bearing replacement and a Clutch Cylinder replacment is a no brainer. I have an '89 F250 w/460 V8 and 5 Speed and an 95 F350 Crew Cab Dually w/460 and a 5 speed and I have replaced both of these Trucks Clutch/Pressure Plate/Throwout Bearing by myself in my Shop using my big Floor Jack for a Tranny Jack and had no problems . The supplied Shaft to line every thing up is a big help but it is a pretty straight forward job. Takes about a 10 hour day to complete. These old trucks are so simple to work on I would be at a stand still with one of these new Computor controled Diesel things.The old 89 is not worth any thing to any one but me and I have kept it up and repainted a two tone blue several times. So I will keep it until I am gone and the 95 is my RV Towing special and it gets many approving looks at Camp Grounds when we pull in..I replaced the Cat Converters on each one 2 years ago and they both sail right thru the Emissions test. Fix up your Truck. They don't make them like it any more.JC
 
I have a 93 F350 diesel the clutch isn't hard to change but the dual mass flywheel can be expensive.Another thing to check would be the firewall sometimes the metal where the hydraulic cyclinfer is bolted will crack causing excessive clutch petal travel.The Ford truck forum is a good source for information and advice.
 
I had a 1990 with the pivot point on the linkage worn out. I was sure I had clutch or master/slave cyclinder problems. They were fine. It was that pivot point that was shot. Didn't have that much play in it, but it was the problem. I had to push my foot through the floor board to start it or shift it, replace that pivot linkage and it was fine.
 
My 94 done the same thing, it could be that you do have air in the system since you do have a leak but I'd look at the pivot point like the other guys said.

It has a very thin white teflon type bushing in it that goes away fairly quick then the steel pin on the linkage piece starts to wear the aluminum rod that pushes the clutch master cyl. causing more and more free play every time you push the pedal.

FYI I replaced the clutch, pp, tob and a new single piece flywheel (comes as a kit) a couple years ago the price was $550 then, I done the work myself. My trans. is alot more noisy now but I dont have to worry about the dual-mass flywheel blowing up.
 
1) theirs no adjustment so where's the free play coming from

2) Lay on the floor and look at the clutch linkage as you press the petal,,, the master rod connects to a leaver,,, the bush'n in the rod can b bad are were the lever connected to the cross shaft its broke are slipped on the cross shaft,,, its common for all the bush'ns to B wore slap arse out

3) could b the fire wall busted out

4) could B air,,, good luck its a art to bleed'n the system

5) if you git to the point of replacing the master are slave save a headache you can buy'em as a unit assembled and pre bleed

6) Verify all this B-4 you go clutch'n yer money away on a new clutch set,,, BTW if you do replace the clutch remember this one word "Luk",,, Luk is the OEM supplier and the only way to go on replacement,,, you can git a Luk clutch set up rite much cheaper thru the aftermarket than a Ford dealer
LUK
 

when replacing that bushing in pivot point, make sure pin & rod eye haven't been wearing on each other. otherwise new $9.00 thinwall bushing will last about one test drive.
 

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