Drying hydraulic oil

Is there something that functions like dry gas in gasoline for hydraulic fluid/oil? I just changed the fluid in my DB this fall but apparently had enough condensation so that I sometimes get valves freezing. Turing the reddy heater on it for 1/2 hour fixes the problem temporarily, but short of changing the 7 or 8 gals of fluid again is there an additive or something that might help?

nope gotta change it.

I to had to change mine two times and felt it almost needed 3 at time. Had to let it set a long time and just drip what was in it out.
Your going to need the tractor kind of warm so it will drip on out at end. Perhaps you have a garage or a tarp to put over it with some kind of heater under it. Just watch out if you have Gas tank on fumes.

IF the oil is new and worth saving, you could drain the oil into 5 gal. buckets and let it sit for a few weeks. The water will settle to the bottom and you can dip clean oil off the top. At least that works in my relatively warm climate, I don't make any promises for cold climates. I would run the oil through a strainer also.

But yes, you need to change the oil now.

KEH

My grandfather has used isopropyl alcohol in engines that aren"t run much to control water from condensation and I have also used it with out any problems. Just a thought. Derrick

Bret,

I have seen Hydraulic fluid be mud brown from water in it, with no apparent ill effects to the system. Not that I think it's OK....just an observation.

Many old tractors sit outside and rain will get past the shifter boots and down into the sump...that's where most of the water contamination comes from. If condensation was the culprit..we'd all have problems. Therefore I don't think condensation is your major culprit.

Does the fluid still look like it did when you installed it? Oil and water MOSTLY does not mix. If there is a lot of moisture present..it will turn milky when churned up by the pump/gears.

IF it were me.....and I had minute moisture accumulating in the valves and freezing them....I'd add some dry-gas (methyl alcohol) and see if that takes care of it. The alcohol absorbs the water and then it evaporates.

Like one person suggested, the water sinks to the bottom. One day before starting your tractor, crack the hydraulic reservoir drain and see if water runs out. If it does, let it run until oil begins to come. If it's just a half cup or so...then add some dry gas and see what happens.

You're going to have to get the water/moisture out of the valves regardless.

Never heard of an additive for the hydraulic oil although they do make filter cartridges designed for water seperation that go in many filter buggies. For the amount of damage that even the smallest amount of water can have to hydraulic components your best bet is to just go ahead and change it. Like another post suggested, run the machine long enough to get the hydraulics hot and then drain it. This way you stand a better chance of getting more of the contaminated oil, and any free water, out of the system before putting in the new stuff. Good luck.

Have you checked the vent? It needs to be able to let the water vapor out whenever it's running and the oil gets heated up. Otherwise the vapor will stay in there and condense and mix with your oil, especially after the weather has turned cold.

Do not use ALCOHOL in HYdraulics or trans ,, NO GAIN ... ,, True it disipates water to help burn in fuel systems ,,,,,,,Help me if I am Wrong

Bret,

Forget what I said below.

Immediately drain every frikkin drop of hydraulic fluid.

Find three Shaman's to do a 'Dry' dance and then seek the Oracles of 5 Greek gods for guidance.

Lastly, have a Priest exorcise all demons from your oil sumps.

For comfort during these trials, read the anthologies of S. Freud, particularly those concerning Aenal (sic) obsessiveness. It will better help you to understand all the noble advice you get here.

If a machine sits outside all the time, there is no way to completely prevent water getting into the various oil sumps. And I doubt that you can ever get 100% of it out by draining and flushing. So I would suggest running the tractor for a while until it is good and warm, using the hydraulic system so that the oil gets very well mixed up and warm. Then try to drain out as much as you can and refilling the system with new hydraulic oil. If you still have problems with the system cold after that, I would bet there is something else wrong.

Others my disagree, but I reuse water contaminated hydraulic oil. After it has sat undisturbed in a 5 gallon pail for months, the water mostly settles to the bottom. I then pour off most of the oil above the water, into a clean 5 gallon container. That oil looks as clean as brand new oil and seems to work fine in my machinery.

An easy way to find out if your oil has water in it is to drop a small amount of it on a hot exhaust manifold. If it just smokes, the oil doesn't have much water in it. If it immediately sizzles and pops around, that is caused by the water in the oil boiling. If it sizzles, there is water in the oil and it should be replaced.

I don't know how a DB is built, and if it has separate sumps on the transmission, hydraulic area and rear end. But the older Fords are built that way. I had some trouble with water in my hydraulic sump, and wondered where it was coming from, since new oil would be contaminated within a couple of weeks. I decided to change the rear end oil too. When I removed the drain plug on the rear end, about 2 quarts of water came out before I ever started draining any 90W gear lube. With new oil in the transmission, hydraulic sump and rear end, my hydraulic oil quit becoming contaminated so quickly. I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it myself. I didn't try to salvage the used gear lube--it really looked bad. And I had changed the rear end lube about 5 years earlier. I hope to get my tractors under cover within the next couple of years. Good luck!

It would help when you do change the hydraulic oil to use Seafoam transtune to remove the water that's left clinging to the walls and other parts.One can per 5 gal. and follow directions on the can for hydraulics.