changing rear brakes in the '93 chev K1500...

Dave from MN · Jan 10, 2009

is turning into quite a challenge. First thing I discovered was the tar like covering on everything from a apparently long time leaking brake cylinder which mixed with brake dust(?) and is like tar, get that replaced and realize that the brake shoe system is totally different than any one I have ever done. I CAN NOT figure out how to get everything put back together, I look at the other side which is still together and I can see how everything goes, but I just cant figure out how to get it all together, that brake adjuster configuration just has me. Do I have to disconnect that parking brake cable and some how put it all in a a assembled assembly? I have NO clue what to do and I need to have her done by tomorrow noon. I've been doing brakes since I was 14, but this is the first time I have been stumped, and I feel like a real fool.

Anonymous-0 · Jan 10, 2009

Re-assembling drum brakes can be a humbling experience. I'm glad the other side is still intact.

Glenn

Lee in Iowa · Jan 10, 2009

Last one I did was an 89 so it should have been the same, don't remember having a lot of trouble. I had a Chilton manual so I could look at the picture right beside what I working on, that seemed to help more than running around to the other side. Lee

oldrustycars · Jan 10, 2009

I don"t know what the problem could be. I have a 93 C1500, I can"t imagine what could be different. They were very typical drum brakes. Done em several times. Do you have the tool for the retaining spring, with a screwdriver handle? And regular barke spring pliers? And make sure you get the primary and secondary shoes on correctly. I always put masking tape on the shoes, to keep my greasy paws off the linings. Make sure the adjusters turn freely, and use ONLY proper brake grease on the threads.

Lesformore · Jan 10, 2009

I've done brakes on various vehicles. I use a digital camera and take pictures as I disassemble. That way you can reassemble in the reverse order, installing the new parts at the correct time. If its a really dirty job, I have someone else take the pictures. You don't want brake dust to get in you camera. If you can work outside and use an air gun to blow the stuff away once you have the drum off, that helps.

Brian Jasper co. Ia · Jan 10, 2009

Are you sure the tar like stuff is from a leaking wheel cylinder? I'd look closer to make sure it's not an axle seal leak. There are special tools that can be had from Sears and Harbor freight to deal with the springs. I'm a professional tech at a Chevy dealer. I never take the parking brake cable off the lever that attaches to the shoes. I have tools to make the hold down nail springs easy, another to make the return springs easy to re connect. If you have the large u shaped hold down spring, they are really tough without the special jig to hold them out to repalce the shoes. Remember the opposite side is a mirror image. The adjuster cable goes over the rear shoe. Also remember the shoe with the large friction area goes to the rear. If you get them backwards, the brake won't work as well and will not last as long.

Dave from MN · Jan 10, 2009

Every type I have ever done has had the brake adjuster near the bottom of the drum, this type is up above the axle, and a single spring that runs pretty much parallel with the adjuster. The biggest problem I am having is keeping the adjuster assembly and shoes all together and trying to get it over the hub and where it needs to go. It's just no what I am used to.

Dave from MN · Jan 10, 2009

The cylinder was the issue I beleive, the seal looks good, most of the grime was above the axle, plus my master cylinder was empty, so I also have to bleed the darned things now. Brake light had come on and brakes were soft, I thought the pads were wore out.

Old Ford Mechanic · Jan 10, 2009

Dave, Forget about installing the adjuster and the shoes as an assembly.Install the emergency brake cable on one shoe and then mount the shoes to the backing plate with the pins and springs.Then install the spring on the bottom. Now look at the other side to see how the adjuster and spring goes.You can take a flat screwdriver and using it as a lever against the shoes you can now install the adjuster and finally the spring.I have changed hundreds of sets like this.Your correct, the ones with adjuster at the bottom can be installed as an assembly but,these with the adjusters at the top are easier the way i have described to you. And "DO NOT" DISCONNECT THE PARK BRAKE CABLE from the lever.Just slip it in and out of the shoe.Take your time and you'll git er done!"NOTE" A pair of duckbill vise grips work good on those springs.

El Toro · Jan 10, 2009

You need brake springs like this to install the springs. Hal

Dave from MN · Jan 10, 2009

I bought one just like that this afternoon

relaurain · Jan 11, 2009

Digital Pics are great for stuff like that!
I can't beleive what I have read though.
I can change Chevy brakes in my sleep! It's the Ford brakes that are a nightmare most of the time!

changing rear brakes in the '93 chev K1500...

Dave from MN

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Anonymous-0

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Lee in Iowa

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oldrustycars

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Lesformore

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Brian Jasper co. Ia

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Dave from MN

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Dave from MN

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Old Ford Mechanic

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El Toro

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Dave from MN

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relaurain

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