Heres something tractor related

I got back to the B this morning. I got the radiator on and looked over the timing, and it turns out that mag is on there right. 1st cylenders intke opens, mag snapps over the first terminal, and then exhaust opens and closes. Finally, something went right!!

Now for what went wrong. I stuck a hose in the radiator since its in the low 50s here today and discovered leaks all over the map. Good news is the radiator doesnt leak.

Everything else does.

The thermostat was trickling water everywhere and the new water pump (doesnt have many hours on it, looked out of the box when i got the tractor) leaks in an odd place, water comes out from under the fan belt pulley. You can feel it coming out from under the thing the pulley bolts to. This is real nice.

Even nicer-i tried to shorten them wires and broke one of the little clips, and since theres no spares, i have to go buy a whole new set of wires. Wonderful.
1 4 09 update
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If you have a NAPA or similar parts store near you, they should have replacement ends, no need to buy a complete new set.

Sounds like you mag is 90* out of phase, mag should fire 1/2 crank revoluton after the intake valve closes.

there may be a weep hole on the underside of the water pump snout,if its leaking from there the shaft seal has failed. bill m.

No its right. Forgot that part.

Intake opens
Intake Closes
Mag Fires
Exhaust opens
Exhaust closes

Thats what i was afraid of. Break out the parts tractors pump....

RCP is correct ! A good auto parts store catalogs
lots of ends, straight, 45, 90 degrees, and
boots to match both the magneto end and the
spark plug end. With a magneto, you should be
using ONLY solid core wire, and it is available
by the foot. For my Wisconsin engines I buy about
20 feet at a time, (it"s about $1 per foot) and
make all of my plug wires.

Yea, so im told, next time i guess. Our lovely napa was closed (but thats wierd, theyre ALWAYS open, ESPECIALLY when you need them).

Aw well, new set of spark plug wires has more then enough end thingys to go around

You know you mag is from a IH do you not?. The engine will run with it but the mag should be a Fairbanks-Morse unit.

Kent

Intake opens/closes,mag fires,exhaust opens/closes.Sounds right but where is the rotor pointing when mag fires,at number one position on the cap I hope?Is plug actually firing?Water leak is kind of irritating.You can get those copper things for plug wires at an auto parts store.Solid wire might be better,but try what you have and if its got good spark at the plug,it should run.If everything is right with the firing side must not be getting gas.Pull it again with throttle open and pull choke if you have one and then pull a plug out,if the plug is wet with gas its not firing,if its dry its not getting gas.

Do you have rubber/cork washers on those thermo bolts? That's what I had to do to kill the leak...

Sure should, yup.

But if itll run with it, why not??? Ive got a fairbanks unit that needs some work that i"ll put on with the IH mag is needed for my WC.

No, i dont. How would you put the things on so they dont get tore up by the bolt head??

Your C sure diddnt leak!! It held enough water to soak the garage floor when i pulled the radiator hose off LOL

Lanse,
Let's get one leak at a time fixed, water from the thermo may be running down to the pump. Hard to sort out with that much coming from the thermo housing, and sometimes the pump will self heal when running. I wouldn't pull that pump yet especially if it was a new one.

And i dont want to pull it because of everything i have to take off to get to it. I'll try the thermostat first, see how that ends up. Thanks!!

Mag fires, but on what cylinder? Remember it fires every half turn of the motor. Your rotor shuld be a little past #1 after the SECOND snap after the #1 intake valve finishes closing. You need the half-turn for #1 to compress what it "intook" before trying to light it off. The snap when #1 intake closes is for the cylinder before it in the firing order.

Don,t pull water pump yet, Might be a speck of dirt under seal that moght work outwhen it is running or seakl can be cocked from setting around. don,t worry while it is still setting I think it will be okay

Lanse, how can you tell the water pump is leaking at the shaft seal? From what I can see, there's plenty leaking from the thermostat housing down onto that whole area. Kind of hard to tell from what I saw in your video. There's not a lot to that pump, its a pretty small guy with an impeller at the block, a snout, a seal at the impeller shaft to the pulley, and three bolts to mount it. I don't remember a weap hole. Might be one, but I don't remember there being one like fuels pumps have. I've got one lying in the barn that I replaced because of the seal, but I'm not home to take a look at it until next weekend. If it is in fact leaking behind that pulley, its going to be that seal or a crack. But it sure is hard to tell with all of that leaking down right on top of that whole area from what I can see. That's an awful lot of leaking. I'd fix that first before going after the water pump, cause from what I can see, it just may not be leaking. I made (cut) my own gaskets ot of gasket material and used Permatex No. 2 on both sides. And them caps on them mags sure don't like moisture. Seem kind of porous to me and regardless of setting in a dry barn all winter, I still find myself pulling that cap off and cleaning it and the terminals first fire up every year. And good shift boot or not, them shift levers work like a lightning rod for water, so become a water rod so to speak that guide that rain water right down into the trans, and that'll add up to contaminated gear oil down there in time. Been there, done that. Good luck, and I'd take 50 degrees.

Mark

Not sure if the NAPA in Ohio sells copper core plug wires, but the NAPA here only sells those junk ones for cars. You want copper core wires, those "automotive type" ones are junk on a tractor with a mag, I put them on my H and it ran terrible with them, put on copper wires and it runs great.

The only spark plug wires that should be on any tractor with a mag are solid copper core wires. John Brillman, 2328 Pepper Rd., Mt. Jackson VA, Phone 888.274.5562, www.brillman.com has the proper wiring kits for your tractor, not only secondary wiring but primary wiring also. All the wiring he sales and the orginal type i.e. cotton insulated w/lauquer finish (insulation) in the proper colours with the proper ends. He also has battery cables, the proper braided ground straps etc. If it's anything to do with old tractor electrics, he should be able to accomidate you. Prices ain't bad either. If you give him a call, he'll send you a nice catalogue.