Allis Update

OK, so i tried it in third and it worked many times better. I dont think a few seconds can cause much damage, but you guys are the experts so i'll go throw radiator on.

In third, the engine really spun but still diddnt fire. At one point, there was some white smoke trickleing out of the exhaust, so atleast somethings happening.

But since it doesnt even pop (and i squirted gas in the cylenders) there must be something with the ignition. My spark plug wires are really long because in my infinent wisdom i never shortened them, and i think that might have something to do with it. Theyre TSCs finest copper core wires.

Also, this probabally goes out to nebraska kirk, but does anyone have a diagram of which terminal goes to which cylender on a harvester H4 mag??? I made an educated guess and i think i guessed wrong.

BTW, give the video a few minuites. It hasnt finished processing yet......
Second Try
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#1 is where you want it. I'm pretty sure the way it was new looking at the cap #1 would be in the 1 o'clock position. Roll your engine around to top dead center of compression on cyl 1. Put your thumb over the plug hole or use a compression gauge while turning the engine. The mark for TDC is on the flywheel and you center it in the hole on the left side of the tractor. Take the cap off and see where the rotor is pointing. That is where you put the wire for #1 and then on to 2, 4, and 3. It's not the typical 1,3,4,2 like a modern 4 cyl engine.

Yes sir, thats the way we got it. Do you think shortening them wires would help any???

Gas in a gas tank mite help.

Gary

I was thinking about possible longer plug wires so you can wrap then around the fan blade.

You got spark, gas, and compression it should run. Bad coil always takes the fun out of this statement.

Dawg sure enjoyed the show.

One thing you either got too much mud or not enought.

diddnt ya see my redneck gas tank??? Lawnmower tank clamped to a board clamped to the toolbox LOL

Is everyone else wondering like i am? Just what the heck is going to happen if that thing ever does fire? For some reason sitting here in the living room,i keep looking out the window for a runaway tractor.I hope i'm far enough away to dodge all the flying parts.

Gas tank has to be above the carb cause you don't have a fuel pump only gravity flow.

Thought of that. It is. When you pull the line off carb end, gas flows out. Dont look like it, but it works. And besides, even if the carb were getting gas, the gas i squirted into the cylenders would make a couple pops if it had spark...

Looks like you have carbon center plug wires which will be a problem if that is what they are.
Carbon center wires and a megneto just does not work well together.

I dont know what carbon wires are, but i did make that mistake once with wires had from the local auto parts store. These have nothing but copper in the middle, and are WAY stiffer then the "distributor wires", so i think im good. How would i be positive???

Length of the wires won't be spit of a difference, except in pretty and eventually keeping them out of the way.
Timing means no such thing as an EDUCATED GUESS. Find out which way the rotor is turning, then wire 1243, now find out which one is firing when the timing mark is showing, This will be YOUR #1, wire accordingly. Now if you get backfires and popping (some very loud) you move the wires as follows because you are 180* out of time; #1 to #4, #4 to #1, #2 to #3, #3 to #2

Right on Gary!!! Thank You!!

From your video you dont have fire or you dont have the plug wires on right.If you have a higher gear it might turn better because you have so much mud your wheels are sliding a lot.You say you have white smoke now.Seems like it would still fire.If you have gas and its wired the way its supposed to be,it should hit.When you pull number one plug and crank until its just past Top Dead Center,if you pull the cap and its pointing to number one plug wire,and you have it wired right,all it can be is half way out.So bring it around again and it should have even better compression,then where its pointing will be number one,then wire according to how it turns the rest of the firing order.Putting gas in the cylinders might make it hit a little at first if everything is right,but not very long.If everything is right,it should hit and not need to put gas in the cylinders,and run on its own before you go 5 tractor lengths.

Shoot, i might have it timed to the exhaust stroke then. Which valve is intake and which is exahust???

Lanse,
Calm down, take a breath you're almost there. The exhaust is the front valve, the next 2 are intake valves, the next 2 =exhaust, next 2=intake and back valve (closest to driver) is exhaust. Both valves should be closed on #1 when it fires. Front valve(Exhaust) will be closing as intake opens this is down stroke on #1,when intake closes 1/2 turn of crank should put #1 cylinder at Top Dead Center (TDC),timing mark should be visible and rotor should be pointing at what should fire #1.

I AM CALM!!!

lol thanks

Well if you get it just past top dead center,is the rotor pointing to number 1,past number 1 or before number 1?It should be right on number 1 or just a little past.If its before,then on most motors you might have to adjust it a little.The main thing is that its on the compression stroke.Theres still lots of things it could be,you will just have to figure them out one at a time and it should run.Soon as it hits good I would put the radiator on,or maybe now so if it ever does run you can warm it up and check for leaks.Sometimes plugs get gas fouled and wont fire.

Also make sure whatever kill switch you have ,is not grounding out when you try to start the tractor. Magneto kill switches ground out the mag to shut the tractor off.