2N stuck clutch

I recently purchased a 1944 2N. The only problem with it is whenever it sits for a day or so the clutch will "stick". To get it unstuck I start it in first gear, with my foot off the clutch, then let it drive it forward- then turn it off and then start it in reverse and let it drive back. I do this three or four times and then after that ritual the clutch begins working fine. Any ideas? The clutch adjustment seems fine.

Block the clutch pedal down when you are done using it. Other than that split the tractor and replace the clutch and any leaking seals, etc.

Very common problem with old tractors. The clutch disk sticks to the flywheel/pressure plate and the will not release. I have an 8N that does that and I just keep the clutch pedal blocked down when I'm not using it. It has a back hoe on it so to try to drive it to unstick it is a pain. It stays blocked down some times for 6 months or more and the clutch always works just fine if I block it down
Hobby farm

If it is happening that often.........I'd say some clutch work is in order. Maybe new clutch plate, flywheel resurfacing? No tractor should lock up that quickly. Blocking down the pedal compresses the clutch springs. Not a good thing over the long run. I've had tractors parked well over a year without that happening.

JMS, I agree. It should not be happening that often. I think it is time to open 'er up and have a look.

If it sticks that often it's time to split the tractor and fix the problem.

Propping the clutch pedal down when not using the tractor is an alternative but would be my last resort. The clutch disc can stick to the flywheel and I've seen it happen over night even on old chevy trucks. But what I've seen more of is the disc hub sticking to the transmission shaft. It rusts up in the splines and and keeps the disc pushed against the flywheel.

If the disc is stuck to the flywheel sand the flywheel really good and sand blast the disc on both sides after you remove it.

If the disc is rusted to the shaft splitting the tractor may be difficult depending on how bad the rust is because the shaft will not want to slide out of the disc hub thus holding the two halves of the tractor together. Again sand the flywheel and blast the disc. Then use a wire brush on the shaft's splines and the splines inside the disc's hub then then spray them clean with some brake clean then put a small coating of never sieze on the splines. Keep the never sieze to a very minimum amount because you don't want it thrown out on the disc from centrifugal force.

Be sure to check for any leaking seals, better yet replace any seals inside there plus your throw out bearing plus the pilot bearing if it has one. Any grease thrown from these seals or bearings can cause the disc to stick. Grease and oil can become very sticky once heated and burnt like in a clutch or brake system.

someones gonna git hurt not know'n the clutch sticks,,, these old fords are EZ to put into gear with out the clutch released,,, my guess is the clutch disc is oil soaked,,, if so sometimes even block'n it does not help much,,, save a life fix it proper

John B, Thanks for mentioning that the problem could be the disc hub sticking on the transmission shaft. I never thought of that. I know that a lot of people probably wouldn't want to do this but I have already drilled a hole in the clutch housing and sprayed a solvent down in there. I know, that is just a band aid temporary fix. You have to figure out the right place for the hole.

The clutch on my NAA would release slowly. If I didn't block the pedal it would grind getting it into gear if I didn't wait long enough with the pedal down. I took the starter off and sprayed the flywheel with Brakleen. I had to spray towards the front of the tractor so I put a short piece of small plastic tubing over the spray tube and put a U-bend in it, turning the engine with the fan. It worked perfect all summer and has just started sticking again. I'll do it again in the Spring.

The 8N I had once did that once. I put it in fourth (you don't have that, just third) gear and stood on the brakes (you have a hard time doing that with just two legs), and slipped the clutch until I got it hot. Then I didn't have the problem any more. I either burned the oil out of the clutch plate, or polished the rust off the flywheel and pressure plate.

The alternative to standing on the brakes is to have a front bumper and rest it against a sturdy post, or to hitch the drawbar to a sturdy post. Anything to hold the tractor from moving forward. Don't try that in first gear, there won't be enough torque at the clutch to polish it good.

Gerald J.

Special thanks to all of you who responded at this busy time of year to my inquiry. We, in Vancouver British Columbia, are having a record snowfall so I am using the "old gal" for moving snow. (this is a good thing as my wife and daughters thought I was going through some mid-life crisis when I bought the tractor a couple of months ago) Fortunately I am the only one who drives it so I can try the temporary fixes that you fellows suggested and then get into it for the permanent fix in the spring.