Gantry crane

robertmn

Member
Hi Guys; Well, finally got one of my winter projects done! Really had to push on the painting part!! Have a friends 202MF to split, and my 1650 Cockshutt Wheatland also. Any one else have winter projects to share with the rest of us? Thanks Bob
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Bob,

I have a similar setup only I use a jib crane. My winter projects include a "26 John Deere D and a "31 John Deere GP.

Dennis
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Just eyeballing it I would say it needs braces from A frame to the top beam. I would also worry about the load rating for the casters.
 
I too was thinking a little angle bracing might go a long way - hate to see it fold over to the side, but don't want to be critical. Sometimes pics don't show the real detail.

--->Paul
 
Don't need angle bracing your trolley will roll to the center of the load.Been using one with no braces for 35 years.Mark
 
Hi Bob,

Your design calls for a ZERO deflection on the I-beam at maximum load weight. Any deflection of the I-beam would allow for too much side loading of the vertical supports that will cause the vertical supports too kick out at the bottom.

Just guessing but it appears to be a 12ft span on a 6" I-beam? That's not very much load weight. Your existing chain fall load rating will far exceed your structural design load rating.

Then there's a design problem at the I-beam too vertical tube support connection. The I-beam should have been placed on "top" of the vertical supports and not on the side.

Be careful here as I would like too see your threads next year on your completed projects.

T_Bone
 
Good eye there T_Bone, looking at the picture more carefully, I completely agree with everything you said. Especially the positioning of the I-beam on the sides of the vertical supports...
 
Nice job Bob. Had one like your's at a shop years ago. Same design but maybe a slightly larger central beam. No bracing and it lifted lots of semi truck engines. I assume you built it from a plan and know what it should safely lift.
If you split many tractors and like making stuff, a track frame and jack dolly to role up and down it are useful if you don't already have them. Helps the two halves roll apart and back together, easy and square.
 
Dennis,

What kind of base/support do you have for your lift? I have one I'd like to install, but have no idea what I need for a base (concrete thickness, bolts, etc.)

Joe
 
T-Bone,
You're right about the design. I hate to be critical since he did such a nice job tho.

It could be strengthened a lot by some blocking under the beam at the supports to broaden the load bearing area.
A truss/arch could then be built over top of the H beam the support the span much better. Those would be relatively simple additions that wouldn't require a major rework of the existing structure...

Rod
 
It does look like a pretty wide span. The chain hoist I'm guessing, looks to be at least a 2 ton. The casters look kind of light as well. For safety sake, why not put a horizontal piece between the A frames, about 18-24 inches or so down,so a brace could go from there to the bottom of the I- beam. The pivot hoist further down on this topic is different than any I've seen. All the ones I've seen have a brace (Cable or turnbuckle) from a higher point on the column down to the end of the I-beam. I worked in a shop that had pivot cranes with 1 ton electric hoists. They put a lot of stress on the beam when lifting something at the end. In a shop, I think any type of hoist has to be designed by an engineer. The last thing you need is to have a hoist frame fail! Dave
 
It depends on how it's built. All we have to go by is a picture. We don't know exactly what material was used, what thickness it is, what it was welded with or the fabrication skills of the builder? Better to over build than under build a hoist that you could be under. Dave
 
Yes, I beleive braces like that would strengthen it up a lot.
The only concern I'd have with that is you'd be limiting the travel of the chain falls along the beam if I understand you correctly?
I've seen various lighter gantry type cranes that have a truss span over the main beam. Basically they use a piece of flat bar welded down at each end, and then vertical columns across the width of the span to give height to the arch. It's a very simple design. It's simply keeping the top chord in tension to gain strength.

Rod
 

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