Pulsing Battery Chargers: Any Objective Evidence?

I"ve been considering the purchase of a pulsing battery charger. The only information that I have discovered is by those who are trying to sell them.
Do they really work as well as advertised?
Do they really bring back to near new life old deteriorated batteries?
Anyone in YT-land that has had personal experience with a pulsing battery charger that really extended the life or re-newed the life of a lead-acid battery?

Thanks, in advance.

AmeriKen

Once a battery has sulphated there is really no hope to revive them. Now, one that just got drained stone dead is a differant story, some times they need to get hit with a very hard charge to bring them back and a small charger wont do it. No magic bullets out there that I am aware of, been servicing and selling batteries for 31 years!! But I'm sure someone will disagree.

I've had about every version of battery charger known to man (at least, within my budget). That, because besides having many diesel trucks and tractors with many batteries laying around, I also have two properties with solar electric systems and large battery-banks. Batteries in solar battery-banks are expensive and usually, high end.

My Outback and my Trace battery chargers have many features. You set them up for - total AH size, regardless if one battery or twenty. Type of battery (flooded lead acid conventional, flooded lead acid deep cycle, AGM, NiCad, etc. ). Type of charge - float, bulk, equalize, etc.
They also hav thermometers that get attached to the battery to monitor temperature.

I've got two chargers with pulse-width modulation, and a two others with a simple "equalization" mode which is intended to do the same thing in a different way.

I've got high-end chargers, and cheap ones made by Shumaker, Harbor Freight Chinese, Marquette, Snap On, Iota, etc.

From what I've seen - if a battery is bad it's bad, period. If however, it's just sulfated, I don't see any difference between a cheap or high-end charger.

The only big difference I've come across in battery charger performace is - some need perfect AC current to work, and some don't. With that, there is a huge difference. You'll find out if you ever have to plug a battery charger into a portable generator. Most portable generators will not run most shop-type battery chargers. That's where the better, electronic chargers work much better. Iota is one version (I have three - a 12 volt, 24 volt, and a 48 volt model.). Even better is the Trace/Xantrex True-Charge model.

If you just want a charger for routine battery charger - and all you use is grid-power for your AC input - I'd stick with something simple and reliable.

The question is, is it better than a month on a floating charger?. My opinion is it's bunk. Think the idea was stolen from the theory of the microscopic bubbles of ultrasonic cleaning. First their talking about electricity not sound, second the energies involved are puny. Besides modern batteries are undersized and have really porous plates to get the amps. They're designed to fail with 10% of the warranty left so you'd replace it with the same brand. Less than 30% make it beyond warranty. My advice is get the biggest reserve capacity that'll fit or you can make fit. Low or no charge clogs em up fast. A large reserve can drain longer before it's low and would withstand more clogging before you'd notice.

Tried awful lot of chargers, best for me is straight 2, 4, 6 maybe at 10 if you're in a hurry at all. All fancy ones bit the dust in a hurry. Best info I have on charging is slowly as possible. If batt is 75amp hours and is dead, charge it at 2 amps for 37.5 hours, or 4 amps for 18.75 hours, etc. Watch ammeter even though not all are accurate. If 2amps doesnt move needle, try little higher rate. Motorcycle batt, very low rate like 1/2 or 1 amp. Add bulb or resistor in series to keep rate under control. Don't boil em out. Use hydrometer-Look for consistent reading on cells. If after sufficient charging, hydrometer don't read right, use is limited. Don't add water in cold weather, might freeze unless you are on the road and running. Keep terminals clean, shiny clean. Anything green needs cleaning(or brown). Won't stay clean, cracked post in case. No cure that I know of. Someone one this post said the Pulsing charger was only good on batt in excellent condition, like still reads 11 volts, maybe. Be nice to your batt, and it will last a good while. Had one go 9 years in a 61 Ford.

All chargers put out a pulsing DC, what I call dirty DC.Its loaded with AC hum.