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O/T Heat pump question

O

old

Well-known Member
Location
Camdenton Missouri
I have noticed that when its say 40 degrees out the air coming out my vents is a lot warm then when say its 20 out. Is this the way it should be?? And is it because there isn't as much heat in the air for it to extract as when its 40 out??
Thanks
 
cant say for sure, but i know that at some point , it will not be able to satisfy the thermostat and the auxillary heat strip will kick in to help it. So, it would seem that the colder out, the harder it has to work to satisfy the thermostat.
 
The COP for an ASHP is much higher when the temperature differential is lower. Keep getting colder and the heat absorber will eventually freeze with condensation. Your COP during the thawing phase will then be negative.

Correct about the energy content of the air. Just hope that the cold air is at least 'dry' or it is an expensive way to heat a home and not good for the carbon footprint, unless the primary energy source is from renewables.

GSHPs or WSHPs have a much more predictable COP and generally beat an ASHP hands down.

You pays your money and all that........GSHPs are more expensive to install but far cheaper to run during their whole lifetime.

Regards, RAB
 
I have a heat pump that uses oil furnace as backup at 37deg. It gets confused at about 37.5, it will run heatpump then deice the outside unit meanwhile the thermastat calls for more heat the furnace starts, then well you see what I mean. If I'm home I operate emer heat if not it figures it out I guess, about 6yrs now.
 
Lots of acronyms, there, RAB- I suspect that those who understood your answer are also the ones who already knew it. I'm thinking that ASHP, GSHP and WSHP refer to air, ground and water source heat pumps, but what's a COP? And why is there never one there when you need him?
 

your right freind about the outside temps affecting it. there is a new type heat pump that you drill a hole in the ground and run the freon line in and out of it. it is supposed to work well no matter the temp because its about 50 degrees underground at all times..lucas
 
I installed a 2 ton heat pump 2 months ago, they have come a long way with the technology of the air source heat pumps, a friend installed a heat pump 4 months ago, different brand than mine, his is supposed to be good down to 17 deg. mine is good to 0 deg. It does a great job heating my 1500 sq. ft. home, problem, now my basement is cold because my oil fired boiler never comes on for heat, so now my basement where I spend a lot of time gets down to around 55 deg. I try to use the electric milk house heaters to warm it up, not doing too good, now I am having another 2 ton unit installed for the basement and will leave the door open to the upstairs to take some of the load off that unit. So far my electric bill has gone up about $50 a month, oil use to cost me about $200 a month, I"m here in NE PA. 17 deg out this morning, real cozy inside, 70 deg.
Tom
 
When you turn it to emergency heat, does that turn on an electric heat element within the furnace? That would get pretty expensive depending on your electric rate.
 
Your heating contractor can set the temp that the pump shuts down. 17-20 degrees is the point where they start to loose their efficiency. You can make them run down to 0 but your not saving anything and the back up strips are probably doing most of the heating anyway. Geo is a much better way to go although it does cost more. There is a maximum $2000 tax credit for Geo systems also.
 
Yep. Old should have his data sheet for the heat pump. The reply was for him. He asked the question.

It will probably quote the best Coefficient Of Performance and little else. That's all that an air source heat pump supplier wants you to know!!

They work fine when it's warm and don't when you really need them.

That is one of the problems of a heating thread on a tractor forum.

Regards, RAB
 
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