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O/T: Anyone have an American Royal Outdoor Stove?

O

OliverGuy

Well-known Member
Looked at an Ameriacn Royal Stove yesterday, says it's made in Wisconsin. Looks like a good unit, but I don't know anything about them. What do you guys have for an outdoor stove? I think I can get one that will warm my shop and I can send the water 200' to warm our house also. Says I can put a heat exchanger in my existing plenum for heat and put a leg on my water heater to heat the domestic hot water. For my shop, they sell a hanging forced air heater. I've got boat loads of wood, it comes back from town from the work we do and tree services drop it here also. I already have a stack that's 4'x4'x90' long split and under cover. It seems like the way to use a resource I have--but what's your guys pay back been? If it's a long ways out, maybe it's not worth it. Of course I'd like to have it at our business so it can pay for it while sending "free" hot water to the house. Thanks.
 
Don't know where you are at but around my area of Ohio they are trying to restrict there use from Nov. 1st to April 15th and tell you what you can burn in them, NO TRASH and they consider slab wood from lumbering operations trash.
 
I have a Central Boiler, this is the 7th season. Works great. I burn it app. 8 or 9 months or so, let it go out in the summer because of a subdivision downwind. Usually light it around the middle of Sept. or so, let it go out around the middle/end of May. It is hard to put a payoff on just the cost of it, as there are other benefits that don't figure in. Such as no smoke/dust/dirt/bark/ashes/bugs in the house,unlimited hot water, no risk of chimney fire (had one once in the old system). If I had it to do over again, I might consider a dual fuel model. I would consider either propane or fuel oil dual fuel, and put a small tank next to the boiler. Mine is app. 150 from my house. I know I must have some heat loss, but it is an excellent location for me. I also know that they do more insulation now, foam around the lines etc.
 
Hey Andy, what's the status of that in Ohio? We've been thinking about one, but have put it off because of that legislation. We live in Northeast Ohio and have firewood coming out our ears!
 
Neighbour here used to have the fun of trudging out to the middle of the yard. Dusting the snow off the wood and fueling.
They re-located the outdoor furnance immediately adjacent to a new outside shop door they installed.
They now stand inside out of the snow and rain. Open the shed and furnace door then chuck the dry wood in.
 
never seen any around me and i live in Wi.i don't care what kind you put in but go with a company that has been makeing them for years and KEEP it simple stay away from all the electronics stuff, ash augers , fire brick lined, and any other fancy thing. there are a lot of fly by night co. out there that will be gone next year. around me most are Johnson, Wood Doctors, or Central boilers. i have a Johnson going on 8 years. Son has a Wood Doctor after he got rid of a Central Boiler likes the Doc a lot better then the CB burns a lot cleaner
 
I have to agree that ash augers are BS. Electronics can be useful but its a harsh environment for them.

But I disagree with you on firebrick it is a necessity in any fire burning appliance to maintain the longevity of the steel and promote good combustion by helping to contain the heat in the fire box.

I have not seen a Royal stove first hand but they have been around for a couple years at least.
 
Jeep

I'm in Osnaburg township in Stark County just east of Canton.I'm also on the board of zoning appeals for our township. Our zoning Commis sion wrote new regulation that restrict the use to Rural residential areas with minimum of 3 acres. Also they have set backs from property line and building and stack height requirements in reguards to adjacent structures.You are also restricted from burning trash which also includes slab wood which according to Ohio is concidered trash. I do not agree with all the restricts. Resently Canton's city concil wrote a new ordinance to restrict the use of out door wood burner. If you are going to buy one I would check with your local zoning inspector first to see what your zoning restriction are. If they have not added them to your zoning then I wouldn't waste any time and get one before the do.
 
I had a smaller unit, it was an indoor unit,worked nice .It a pressurized unit i do believe so don't have to add much water. I liked it, just was too small for the buildings i have. They are built in loyal wi,just 15 minutes from reedsburg . Been their long time family owned and their made their also.
 
I have a Woodmaster made in MN. Figured the payback in 3 years I think it was more like 2. I Have about 8oo gallon of space for oil and would burn it out in 3 months so at 1600 gallon per year at 3.00-3.50 per gallon it pays back fast. I think I had about $8,000 in it . I did all the work myself for installation. If you go that route don't scrimp on size figure everything up one size you wont be sorry. I have the 5400 suppose to heat 10,000 sq ft It will take a block almost 5ft long and has a 27inx27in door. I made a hoist from barn door track and steel tubing then added a 500pound line winch to that. Then use some 1 inch rod for the forks 8inches apart mount a point for the line hook and away you go. Now you don't have to split much and can put big stuff in with out the work. Oh the rods want to be about 2-3 ft long on the sides. This way the wife can fire it when I'm gone easier.
 
I built one for about $1k, and it lasted for 5 years, but it was not as efficient as store bought. Have kids now, so want something safer. Since fuel prices are down, we went back to propane.

It was a fun project, built it out of scrap on the property, pt valves, air remover, bladder tank, black pipe, and radiators.

If I would do it over, i would use forced air for combustion, and build it smaller so it has to work a little harder, and put the flame inside the water cavity. i would also consider hooking it up to a water heater (gas backup, and simplicity), and using softened water since the buildup was reducing the efficiency of the heat exchangers.
 
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