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Tractor for a beginning farmer.

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Farmerpete2400

Member
I found a International 806 near home. It has a cab, its a diesel, dual PTO's, dual Hydraulics. I am planing on staring farming in 5 years or less and was wondering if this is a tractor that I should be looking at. I like the price and it has 95 HP which will be good for my operation. I plan on having a no-till planter and do mostly minimum tillage. I am starting on 65 acres and will move up to 175 in 4 years then to 225 5 years or so after that. I also hope to add rented land of coarse :)

Is there anything on the tractor I should be looking at? I am not sure if it has a TA but I will have to see if it is good if it does have one. I would like to post the link but the website wont allow it. By the way what does "Wheat land" mean?

Thank You

Farmer Pete
 
95 horsepower is good for a beginner, but when you get up to 200+ acres, you're going to want 175 hp MFWD with duals. "Wheat land" means full dress fenders, wider rear tires, and a solid front axle.
 
Generally "Wheatland" means just that , a tractor used in Wheat land. This is a tractor primarily for dragged implements . Early versions had no 3 point hitch. The front axle is often not adjustable for width of rows. I have an 806 gas but it is not the Wheatland model. I think such tractors are most common in the Canadian Wheat fields.
 

Wheatland tractors usually don't have a 3 point hitch either. If it is to be your only tractor 3 pt is a handy thing to have for many smaller jobs. If planting I think you would want an adjustable axle. Also wheatland usually have 23.1 34 tires, pretty wide to get down narrow rows. Remember that a 806 can be 45 years old, if you can deal with that then jump on it. If it was my only tractor I would want something newer. But in that size for an older tractor a Farmall 806 is one of the best. Here in the west we have International models that people call wheatlands that aren't, They have 18.4 38's on axles, small fenders like a Farmall, no dust shields, just floor plates, TA, headlights in the grill and heavy adjustable set back front axles. Are these just an International model instead of a Farmall or a rice model with narrow tires?....James
 
(quoted from post at 17:20:15 10/06/08) 95 horsepower is good for a beginner, but when you get up to 200+ acres, you're going to want 175 hp MFWD with duals. "Wheat land" means full dress fenders, wider rear tires, and a solid front axle.
Click to expand...

I was thinking that I would have a 90 +/- HP tractor, and then get a old 2 + 2 or articulating (Stiger, versatile,etc.) tractor for tillage, anhydrous, possibly a grain cart sometime in the future. I just would use the 90 HP for planting mowing and other small work. I found a stiger for like 6K but I think I will pay a little more for a tractor of that size and get something better. I am mainly just getting cheap equipment for my first few years then get nicer stuff eventually.

Thank You

Farmer Pete
 
You are definitely right about the Wheatland's being plentiful in Canada. All the 706's and 806's I have ever seen were Wheatland models. None had/have 3 point hitches unless added on. Not that many had 23.1 s though. It was more common to go with 18.4 34's and dual them up. We just didn't have the need for 3 pth in that size tractor at that time.
 
If was me I'd look for a 1086 IH or a 2390 Case. Both are good tractors and are big enough to do what you want. I've seen both of the tractors sell for $11-12000 with cab/AC and duals. But they can be almost 30 years old too.
 
And they made out OK too. Every body wants a cab with air and heat. Canvas heat houser still works good to block the wind
 
What ever you get, get a popular model and make sure parts are still available. There is a down side to cheaper equipment. It can require some major repairs. You can't make any money if you're always fixing machinery. I didn't think that many people are just getting into farming with the high cost of everything, especially land, and no guarantees of success. Lots of good used equipment is out there. Don't just jump at the first tractor you see. It might be excellent but it never hurts to check out of bunch of them. Dave
 
And you could make a living on 200 acres too. See how long you last trying that today - even if you farmed it with horses and watered it with blood.
 
Before purchasing used. It"s always prudent to find out what new is selling for. Then figure the costs of depreciation, maintaince, low production time etc.
Used can be a bargain and used can be more costly. Depends on you and your pencil.
There are some plain vanila stripped down basic brand name new tractors on the dealer lots with purchase incentives.
 
Personally, I'd avoid any of the older red (or green) tractors, simply because of how much fuel they eat. (I know... may be starting a color war here...) I have a cousin (and his Dad) who only used Case 30 and 70 series up to about 5 years ago... then he bought a Ford 7610S... and then a NH about the same size, with a cab. He keeps telling me how much LESS fuel he uses. Took me years of talking to him to even get him to try a Ford.
 
Honestly, here in northern iowa and western SD, a 4430 John Deere
would be a great option for a beginner. They are cheap and cheap
to run. I have a late model 4430 and it will run all day. Also, 10-15
grand will have you a heck of a nice one.
 
A good running 806 in good shape is hard to beat for the money but if the price gets up into the 6's maybe something newer like the 66 or 86 series would be a better bet.
 
I don't know much but I think you need to be looking at the whole package. Tractor, disks, planters/drills, applicators, etc. Doesn't do much good to save a few bucks on a tractor and then spend a fortune trying to match implements to it.

See what implements you are going to need based upon how much time you want to spend in the field and what is available at a reasonable price. Talk to your county agent. Then get a bigger tractor so you aren't pulling it hard. Once you have decided on the full package, then you can start watching the sales. Your agent can also tell you what is probably laying around the farmsteads. No/minimum till requries some special equipment.

Hate to see you get a tractor that won't match the implements.

Then decide how many hours you are going to put on your tractor per acre per year. Those good "old" bargains may be headed for an expensive rebuild. Which is why those long time farmers are selling them to start with so they can go with new.

I grew up without using a cab and radio but decide how bad you want one. The older I get, the less I like to eat dirt.

Good Luck.
 

I see your point. I would probably use this tractor for planting, mowing, and maybe a wagon. I do not think I really need the 3pt hitch because I would get a pull type shredder. I figure I will have to get something smaller eventually for a blade so I will just make sure that the smaller tractor has a 3pt.

I do know that the older anything gets the more work it will need. I will look it over and see how it runs to get a better idea on some of the weaker spots. As for the cab I really do not care but I think it would be nice to have something over your head then nothing. I want to thank everyone who posted.

Thank You

Farmer Pete
 
I think you want the 3 pt for your equipment, the mower, and blade, and maybe moving bales, etc.

Getting another smaller tractor to mow & blade etc. just adds a whole bunch of maintenance costs that will eat you up keeping it running. About the time the clutch goes out on the big un, the clutch will go out on the little un, and then you'd wish the big un had a 3 pt.
 
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