OT-041 Farm Boss

Matt Kane · Oct 3, 2008

I posted a little while back about my saw not running right. It would backfire when put under load and had no power cutting. I assumed it was low compression so I took the cylinder off. Well its original, but in good condition. I put it back together and tested it, 155 cold, 145 hot. I rebuilt the carb, new fuel line, and impulse line. It will revv nicely, idle smooth. Put it into a piece of wood and soon, pop pop pop, won't cut. I haven't touched the points, and condensor. Could that be it? If so where can I find them reasonable?

JDemaris · Oct 3, 2008

A bad piston and/or cylinder isn't going to make the saw break up, pop, etc. It will result in a saw that won't start.

If the 041 has a leaking crankcase seal, impulse hose, or intake-manifold - it's will run lean and - will idle too fast.

If it seems to run OK but breaks up under a load, it sounds like ignition. With the non-electronic 041 saws, igntion points - condensor - coil - and shut-off wire should be the first thing to check.
Coils rarely went bad with breaker-magneto saws - but points and condensor are routine maintenance items.

Matt Kane · Oct 3, 2008

Should I clean the points and just replace the condensor?

JDemaris · Oct 3, 2008

There's no problem with cleaning the points if you can get them to make good contact. But - Stihl (Bosch) had problems with those condensors - especially the early solder-in versions. Later replacements had a threaded stud. If you have a good capacitor checker - then check it for shorts under load. If you don't - you'be be smart just to replace it.

Matt Kane · Oct 3, 2008

I'll call tommorrow and see if they have any in stock. Thanks

Matt Kane · Oct 4, 2008

They no longer carry points and condensors for the saw. I bought an electronic ignition for it. Wow, that thing really rips through trees. Thanks

JDemaris · Oct 4, 2008

That's interesing. What did the electronic setup cost and did it require a new flywheel?

I've got a newer 041 that came from the factory with electronic igntion and the Stihl dealer told me that parts aren't available anymore.

Same with my 056 Magnum II.

Matt Kane · Oct 4, 2008

Its a little chip called an atom. It was 14.99+tax. I just removed the flywheel, removed the points and condensor, spliced the kill, coil and the atom together under the flywheel. Then ran a single wire out and tied that into the atom, which is mounted on the outside. I did mine by the choke, there it is grounded. Works like a charm. Required me to change nothing.

JDemaris · Oct 4, 2008

Yes, I know what the Atom module is. There are many like it, e.g. the Nova, Mega-Fire, etc. They've been around for a long time. I thought you got something OEM from the dealer. An OEMs setup would require a new module and new flywheel. I wouldn't use it in any of my saws - as I recall it puts the ignition timing in the wrong place and there's no adjustment. Runs too advanced.

Hey, if it works for you and doesn't result in a hole burned in the piston - it's a good cheap fix.
Personally I wouldn't use it on a two-stroke-cycle chain saw since they can be very touchy about timing settings. That is, unless I had no other alternative.

It's kind of ironic - since many with good Stihl saws with failed and unavailable electronic modules are changing back to breaker-points setups. The Bosch points and condensors can still be found new.

Anonymous-0 · Oct 5, 2008

I was thinking that different color Atom units have different timing specs. That true?

Matt Kane · Oct 5, 2008

Yes, I believe so. They said I needed the blue, which I believe limits revs. I can't tell a difference between the stock setup and the atom with it idling, or revs. I do have the power now in the cut though.

OT-041 Farm Boss

Matt Kane

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JDemaris

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Matt Kane

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JDemaris

Well-known Member

Matt Kane

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Matt Kane

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JDemaris

Well-known Member

Matt Kane

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JDemaris

Well-known Member

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member

Matt Kane

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