Pertronix ignition module

Back in the late spring/early summer I installed a Pertronix ignition module(P/N # 1261) in a 200 CID Ford industrial engine('81 Versatile 4400 swather).............up until that point the engine had been running fine, I just wanted to eliminate the points..........

Now, the engine frequently stalls without warning just as if the key has been shut off(no sputtering, just dies)BUT will re-start immediately, no problem.............sometimes the engine will quit 4 or 5 times in row over the space of as many minutes and then it can run without fault for 1/2 an hour...................

I installed the module as per the instructions. Also, I confirmed the condition of the ground within the distributor during installation as I've read in other threads that a poor ground can wreak havoc...........

The factory coil and external resistor were used...........

I've read that using the Pertonix coil is a good idea but I've heard of plenty of people using the factory coil without issue??

Any ideas? Besides telling me I should have left points in!

Thanks in advance,

Glen

I forgot to add, it would appear as if the module is failing intermittently, but WHY??

Look at the module & see if there is a dark spot on the back side.I have had them burn out,but that is ussually because the key was left on.If your power source is steady it sounds like you got a bad module.It still is under warranty if it hasn,t been a year.

When you say it will start right up again, do you mean within seconds or minutes later?
If it is thermal and it does sound like it, get some chill spray. Hit the module when it stalls and try to start it. If it does, problem found. Also check all your grounds, also do look at the coil. Having a spare coil is cheap insurance for diagnostics.

Glen, I just cant say sittin here IF the module is failing or WHY........ Much of that solid state equipment, once burned in, can last a longgggggggggggg timeeeeeeeee and hardly fail and/or fail only intermittently, i.e. its more of a GO or NO GO situation PERIOD.
That being said, until I was fer sure the module was bad, Id more suspect a wiring,,,,,,,,,or grounding,,,,,,,,,,or a faulty (burned/carboned/resistive/loose/worn) Ignition Switch,,,,,,,,,,or a coil problem, especially since it seems to occur when warm which is more of a classic coil or maybe an ignition switch problem.

I think I would start by rigging a hot jumper wire to by pass the ignition switch n see what happens??? Next if it still fails hot wired that pretty well eliminates a switch problem,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Next thing is I would insure a good clean bright shiny bond where the module gets its ground to teh distributor,,,,,,,,,,,,Next (sounds like you did this already) Id insure a good clean bright shiny bond from the distributor to the tractor frame ground,,,,,,,,,,,,Next Id remove n clean n wire brush n shine n re atatch each n every coil n distributor n ballast n module wiring connection.

If none of that helps I think Id try another coil and if it still fails FINALLY HEY MAYBE THE MODULE IS BAD AFTER ALL ???????????????

I dont reckon the distributors rotor shaft is worn n sloppy is it??? Those magnets passing by the pickup coil is what triggers the module and if its so worn the gap is jumpy that could pose a problem.

If you can turn the engine over very slowly and have a test lamp on the coils (to distributor) output it should flash between FULL BRIGHT ON and DEAD DARK OFF if the module is working and has a good ground. If when OFF it still has a lil slight glow, theres a ground problem or a faulty module.

I think if you use an external ballast the modules input wires to the ignition switches IGN output or the high input side of the ballast NOT right there at the coils high input as so if no ballast is used IS IT WIRED CORRECT??????

Ima thinkin a faulty ignition switch or a bad ground or a bad coil kind of in that order BEFORE I suspect the module, run the test lamp test n see what it does, that may show a bad ground (dim light when supposed to be full OFF)

Let us know


John T

Thanks for the reply,

The key has not been left on for any significant duration(no more than a couple of seconds) without the engine running as I was made aware from previous threads that the Ignitor does "shut itself off" as does the Ignitor 2.............

I'm thinking it's just a faulty module but I'll check the backside of the module to be safe before I submit it for warranty.............

Thanks again,

Glen

It starts immediately! Connections are all good.................

Thanks for the reply John,

When I installed this module I really left no stone unturned.......or at least any of the stones I could see...........

The shaft/bushings are tight, like brand new............ALL connections are 100%, all terminations are soldered/shrink tubed. Connections at studs on coil and resistor are new and tight.............distributor was cleaned thoroughly before installing module and ground strap inside distributor is properly connected/tight...............

I have a voltmeter in the cab that is common with the coil + wire that I watch when the engine quits, the voltage never dropped a bit.........if the ign. switch was failing intermittently the voltmeter SHOULD go to 0 you'd think BUT I didn't actually confirm the voltage at the coil + so there could be an issue with the wiring between the switch and coil........Like you say I'll could jumper a hot wire to the coil + and throw a test light on the negative, the unfortunate part is that it re-starts immediately so it'll be hard to catch...........

Just the fact that it starts immediately after it quits, that the voltmeter never drops when the engine quits, and that the unit never missed a beat before the module install just leads me towards the module.............

Thanks again John,

Glen

Glenn, on my Mustang the magnet was too low compared to the module. I was getting an intermittent miss. Pertronix folks said to pu an o-ring undwer the magnet to bring it up 1/16". Did that and now it runs fine.

Glen,

Those modules are a go/no-go thing; no in between and it doesn't "fix" itself.

Sure sounds like a faulty coil to me.

Allan

having a somewhat similar issue

this summer my MF135 started cutting out as if key was turned off but usually caught and ran before it died, bush hog gave it plenty of inertia, would do it once every few hours then be fine for several days, no pattern

now it is doing it more often and it seems to be the float hanging shut, a good whack to the carb keeps it going

I suspect this 10% ethanol gas has loosened up some old crud, seems like time to clean the carb out

The engine runs fine, like a top............just quits out of the blue and re-starts as quick as it quit............

Makes sense what you say about the magnets not being in line with the pick-up causing a miss though.........................

Call Pertronix tech support. They have great people. My son is restoring a '70 Caddy and we had some issues with the Petronix. They solved it immediatley. Good American company with support that speaks english.

You wont get answer to this.Transistors do go intermittant.I had one that would make the screen go blank at 2 week intervals.I got lucky when it cut off when I had my scope tracing the circuit.I subbed a new transistor that was supposed to replace the bad one.Didnt blank out but there was a hum bar in the picture.Ordered an exact transistor and the hum bar was gone.I see no reason to put transistors in my tractor ignition.My 640 has been running fine on its point ignition for 22 years.You will have to spend another 100 bucks on a new module.Modules are potted in epoxy to keep you from seeing how few parts are in there.You have a throwaway ignition that will cost a 100 bucks every time it fails.I started working in electronics in 1951 and will not put a transistor ignition in my tractors.

Thanks to all that responded,

There is a chance the coil or resistor may be momentarily failing but the dilema I have is not being able to catch them in the act as any tests I've performed(resistance), show the components as good......................In addition, these components were changed several years ago and dont have many hours on them so I don't really want to replace them on a whim.............

I'm confident the rest of my electrical system is in good condition.................

I've had experiences in the past with ignition modules failing such as the HEI and Motocraft in the GM and Ford products and in those cases they've quit completely, as Allen and John suggest, and are easy to troubleshoot. Unfortunately that contradicts what's happening now............

My concern was to see if anyone had ever run into these modules failing with the symptoms my ignition system is displaying, and if so I wont feel sheepish asking Pertronix for warranty..........

Thanks again,

Glen

I had plenty of transistors and diodes quit working when they got hot then act fine when cooled.Also had a diode that shorted in 10 minutes,took a scope to catch that one.Never say never when working on electronics or engines.Diodes with leakage are common.