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O/T Building Question

T

Tom B...IN

Member
I am considering building a new garage next summer and thought I would start looking at options now. I would like to do most of the work myself, and seem to have many options.
#1) Buy a "package deal" form lets say 84 lumber or a similar building supply company
#2) start from scratch, buying things like premade trusses etc.
#3) Build a "pole barn" and then and in studs etc.

Size would maybe be along the lines of 24X 30 give or take a few.

If I could do it within a reasonable price I would to maybe have some form of second level storage (IE like a "hip-wall" room)

Just wondering if anyone had experiences good or bad with any of the above.

Thanks
Tom
 
cheapest thing i've done was 6x6 posts 8 feet apart with 2 layers of 2x10 girsts at the top and then set trusses on them 2 feet on center. Then I took 2x4s and placed them 2 feet apart horizontally on the walls to nail up metal. shingle roof was my choice, probably not the cheapest. Of course, you gotta brace the whole building with 45 degree supports every now and then.
 
MENARDS has truss rafters that are hip-roof type for storage up stairs then using engineered lumber the floor upstairs will support floor. 24FT would be about the limit for clear span without having posts underneath.
 
When I built my pole barn, I looked into the kits. Most of them did not meet code for my area. A few local lumber companies also offered computer blue prints. Same deal. One old fashioned lumber company had very knowledgeble salesmen and they put together a rough plan and materials list that met all the requirememts.

Most building departments have printed guides for pole barn and garage construction written for the average joe. In the guide they will list everything you need to do to meet code for each type of construction.
 
Menard's stores have computers that will allow you to get on the computer yourself, design a building, and then print out a materials list.

The last garage I built I went this route. I designed it in the fall and watched Menard's ads over the winter. Whenever any of the material came on sale, I went to the store and prepaid it. By the time they delivered the material in the spring, I only owed a couple hundred dollars for hardware, etc. I saved over $500 on material by doing it this way.
 
Depends on what you want the finished product to look like and how much you want to spend. Those kits are outrageous. I looked at one and couldnt believe it. Smart shopping can save you 2/3 at least. Im working on a 'polebarn' cabin right now. Even with a finished interior I wont have over 8000 in a 24x48 cabin with a 12x48 porch.
 
I bought my post frame shop as a kit from Carter Lumber. I gave them the specs: Basic dimensions (30 x 40 x 10), siding (T-111 in my case), roofing (shingles), door sizes etc. I asked for a number of changes from their basic package: Cedar trim, 1 ft overhand all sides, etc. They came back with a detailed materials package.

I am very happy with the building and Carter Lumber was great to work with. My only complaint is that many of the nails they provided, particularly the siding nails, were not galvanized. I ended up buying some stainless nails instead.

Even if you don't have a Carter lumberyard near by, I'm sure there are local lumberyards that can do the same.
 
If you want a second story, you need an "attic storage truss". These can either be common shape, or gambrel shaped. I built my 30x40 pole barn with a gambrel truss. My second story room is 16'wide, 8' tall. The second story is rated for 100+ psf (Note that I bought the heavy duty truss and installed 16" on center to get this rating for clear span).

I'm very happy with this barn. Note that these trusses will require a small crane to install.
gambrel-attic-storage-truss.gif

Click here to see attic storage trusses
 
Be careful with buying "packages." Sometimes they ship a lot of warped/crooked stuff. I think you're better off in the long run to figure all the material yourself. For side walls figure one stud per lineal foot of wall, plus a wolmanized bottom plate and two regular stud top plates. Order trusses based on span, roof pitch and overhang. Energy trusses have a taller heel so you can insulate right to the eaves. I'd make a sketch and take it to two ro three lumber yards for a quote.

Larry in Michigan
 
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