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Lanse

Well-known Member
When i put the C together, i used the bearings and crank i got for my B. I got everything as clean as i could. Guess it wasnt clean enough.

3 mains and 6 rod bearings now have little strips on them of exposed copper. Im assuming these things would need to be replaced, but how wore is too wore on these bearings???

I sent that crank to be hot-tanked and the rods and caps are soaking in carb goop. Im going to try not to do that again.
 
From past experience it sounds like the rod bolts were left uncovered when inserted in the bores and nicked the crankshaft journals. Just a thought.
Tom
 
Is this an AC? Did you plastigauge and shim the rod bearings correctly? Did you put assembly lube on everything? If I can't prime the oiling system on something, I crank it with the ignition off, until I get oil flow.

Most important. There can be NOTHING showing on the journals. No pitting, rust, nicks, dried oatmeal, eyelashes, ect. NOTHING! If it's pitted, it needs reground. small nicks can possibly be smoothed with FINE emery.

Did it knock? What caused you to tear it back down?
 
Well, clean 'er out better next time. (really needed to hear that, huh?)

Seriously. Clean it out this time, And cough up the $ for some assy. paste. It'll take a second to ge oil squirting on to the rods, and running in the slots. Alot of bad can happen in that time. Plain bearings don't tolerate any debrit, especially when devoid of a hydrodynamic wedge between them & their respective mates.
 
I can't figure what may have caused the scratches on the bearings down to the copper. Did you match all the caps to the correct rods, and put the main caps in the correct position. I don't think a groove will be a problem in the bearing shell. Just make sure the groove is not pushing material above the bearing surface. On a poured bearing which has the bearing material actually melted and poured into the rod, and cut out to fit the crank. These grooves are quite common on an old motor, where the motor oil hasen't been changed. Make sure you blow out the oil holes in the crank. Stan
 
Yep. I think i'll match all the scratched bearings and record where i put them in if they dont work. I finally spent the $20 to get the crank hot-tanked and it seems like a good investement. The bearings, rods, and caps are in carb goop. Hey Ohio, hows your hand???
 
Still there, still got the pins & stitches 3wks later! Thanks for asking!

Sorry to see it didn't work out over there. How old are you, anyway?

I know the temptation will be great, but make sure those bearing will work for you before you button them up in that motor! It's no fun to tear stuff apart the 3rd time!
 
Even if you have the crankshaft hot tanked, there can still be debris inside the drilled oil passages. If you don"t clean them before installation, all that crap is going to end up in the bearings the first time you start the engine.

The best way to clean them is to squirt motor oil in each passage and blow it through with compressed air. I"ve done that with every hot tanked crank I have ever installed. The oil seems to attract and pull out more crap than solvent. You would be surprised how much gunk will come out of a "clean" crank.
 
lanse, pick up a set of engine cleaning brushes. they sell them as a kit of various sizes and clean out all the oil passages. brake cleaner works well, you can spray and swab everything clean, then spray a light coat of wd-40 so it doesnt rust until you are ready to assemble. a coat of moly engine assembly lube works good on camshaft and lifters. on the crank and bearings, i use engine oil. here is a link to a nice set of engine brushes
engine cleaning brushes
 
Did you get the right caps on the right rods
and journals, with the caps facing in the
correct position?
Was the crankshaft ground or polished, and did
you use new bearing shells of correct size?
Did you use engine assembly lube (Lubriplate)
on journals and bearings before reassembly?
 
Glad its still there, youre welcome. Im was 15 on july 9. I sure dont want to go in a 3rd time, but that B is a labor of love.
 
Hints from the old Jeep dealer and machine shop: .22 bore brushes used to ream out oil passages then air blast. Duct tape or plastic tube on rod bolts when inserting. 50 weight Valvoline(what was sold in store) squirted on rods and main bearing before and after torqueing twice. Grease gun filled with oil, rubber tip pressed against oil pump pressure hole and pumped until oil passages filled -or on GM - drill extension through distributor hole to oil pump and turn until oil trickles out of bearings. Lubriplate on cams, bearings also helps. Vasoline in oilpump can help some that need priming. AC B have a oil filter with housing and sepeate element like IHC H? Top bolt hole can be used to fill with oil. 2 stroke oil mix 32/40 to 1 in first couple gallons of gas will help rings, valve guides/valve stems. 10 weight oil in crankcase for first start flows good, 10-30 could be used now also. Check torque settings twice to make sure.
RN
 
At least you're learning something! Most kids your age are glued to a video game. What are you going to do with this C?
 
if it's only scratches it will be fine, i've yet to see a new bearing without some after installed...as long as your specs are there you'll bo ok,.....
 
Lifes too short for video games.

I am selling the parts i havent sold yet on the C. I gave up on it.

The C "guts" are going in my B.
 
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